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I found this today. Is there a way to measure or visually inspect the KACR? Mine wouldn't be overly grumpy to start but there were times it would turn over quite a few time to start. It didn't seem out of the ordinary to me but I have no experience to judge otherwise. I suppose I could just inspect and carefully grind it down a little since I am going to kickstart only.
Just thinking; if you're going kickstart only, you might really NEED plenty of KACR. You might temporarily disable the KACR (Tom has a post telling you how) and see how it works out kickstarting before you alter the KACR. If the bike starts easily with the KACR disabled, maybe you don't need no stinkin' KACR at all, and you can remove it.
 

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I believe that @pdwestman has fixed those KACR issues and may know how to measure to see if your KACR pin is one of the ones that is not in the right place.
 

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IONO, disabling a KACR on a kick start KLR scares the peewadden out of me, and I'm known to be a Fearless Fool©.
 

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Wasn't that a 32mm plug?
 

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Discussion Starter #106
I ground down the rubber and tried pressing it it. I just ended up peeling the rubber off of the inside half of the sealing surface. I pressed it in the vice with a piece of wood protecting the gasket surface. You can see the excess rubber that was left on the mating surface bulging out. It is a very tight fit and I don't think it is going anywhere. I wasn't afraid to get a little heavy handed since I now have two inner left side cases. I also thought it was fitting to have the kickstart plug be the starter hole plug.

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I have been trying to read through the oil mod threads but my eyes are starting to go crossed. Should I even be wasting my time trying to lap the oil pressure relief valve and change the spring. If so, what size spring would work.
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I also couldn't find the brass npt plug anywhere and ended up ordering one off ebay for $5.
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That's a clever re-purposing of the 11012. Looks fine!

Paul uses a bit of fuel hose to rotate the ball, using a bit of fine lapping compound. If I recall correctly, a 7/16" ball works well. Lapping will ensure the valve doesn't leak, which is a good thing. You can look at the valve seat and see when you have a fully lapped valve seat.

There is no real need to change the spring and reduce the pop-off pressure unless you are going to use a gauge on the cams. The easiest way to deal with the spring is to sack it with a little bit of heat until it meets the relief pressure you're looking for. Leave it be.
 

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Discussion Starter #110
Drilled with #43

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I got the JB Weld done today. My girlfriend must have misplaced the little plastic piece I was going to epoxy back to the headlight when she cleaned the headlight mess off of the bed. This worked out for the best since I dremeled the metal base out of the cheapo H4 that came with the can and then modded the LED base to fit inside with some JB Weld.

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Paul Westman Oil Mods started. I ended up bolting in a telescopic magnet with frog tape to form a base in the oil hole plug. You can then adjust it to the height you want.
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The sharpie circles were on the clutch case when I bought it off of ebay. I wonder what they were planning?

This oil gasket seems to be supple and in good shape so I will leave it alone.
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I'm going to try to swap out my clutch arm bearing and seal out of my original case. This one looks beat up and is considerably older.

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I'll suggest that .010 inch off the KACR pin is usually enough OFF of the top of the KACR pin and concentrating on relieving the 'Trailing side' of the pin to achieve 110-120 psi with near maximum clearance specs of the RH Exhaust valve on the 2008-2009 models (and a few others).
Measure the KACR pin height from peak of lobe to peak of pin and from peak of lobe to Base Circle of cam to confirm that minus .010" will still give 'some' decompression at .010" Exhaust valve clearance.

The Trailing side is the most important as it controls the 'closing point' of the RH Exhaust valve to allow proper 110-125psi Cold Cranking Compression.

I hope this makes sense.
 
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Discussion Starter #112
It does make sense. I should have my engine on my stand in my room in the next couple days and I can get a good look at it. I am going to pick up a digital caliper as well since they are so handy for many other jobs.

Just finished debadging my clutch cover. I'll swap it out when Kawasaki sponsors me. Just think of all the weight I saved. :LOL:
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If you're going to play, be a player. Go for all the marbles.
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Or go for an esoteric head-scratcher.
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Discussion Starter #115
I had to look both of those up. Way beyond my measly motorcycle knowledge. At this point it should have a KLRFORUM.COM or SOUPERDOO badge. Maybe I'll throw my Toyota badge on there I took off of my truck and really confuse people. HA!
 

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Discussion Starter #117
I got the engine in the stand finally. I had to make up some brackets out of angle iron. I should have just dissected it on a desk or the ground at this point. Hopefully I feel like it was worth it when I finally get into it. I have to pull it off the bracket to split the case anyway. I’m off to dumpster dive some heavy cardboard from the furniture warehouse by my house to lay everything out.
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Discussion Starter #118
I take back everything negative I said about the engine stand. It really is a joy to be able to walk around and take my time cleaning and inspecting things as well as securely rotating the engine 90 degrees. I filled in the KLR600 stator cover JB Weld and sanded it down for debadging. I'll probably do some sort of primitive black touch up paint. I don't mind some scrapes and faded black.

The intake side acorn nut on the head was a real SOB. I had to heat it with a torch.

I read through some threads about valves and some minor basic porting. Any help with the best practice for carbon cleanup and any other recommended mods would be very helpful. I wasn't going to do much headwork at this point but I could certainly be talked into it. I only have 14K on the bike that is a 685 in there already.

I am probably going to order some Kawasaki head gaskets from Eagle Mike.


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Discussion Starter #119
Would there be any downside to pulling of the AIS plug and blocking it with JB Weld? I have just started using JB Weld I don't want to become addicted to it without knowing about possible failure points. Seems like it would be a good permanent fix. I will also swap out the temperature sensor with my Vapor.

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This discoloration was in my head when I originally did the the 685 kit from the stock heavy oil burner. What is it telling of? Overheating? Oil burning? Should this all be cleaned out as well as the carbon?
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This thread made sense to me.

I am also seeing specified combustion cleaner in this post here.

I thought maybe I could contribute some useful information regarding refreshing a head. I've had (I think) 6 heads apart, Gen 1 & Gen 2, have seen some pretty bad valve & valve seat wear, on engines that didn't have particularly high mileage on 'em. You can get a pretty good idea of how much valve & valve seat wear an engine has, by the shims required to get valve lash in spec. Each shim increment of adjustment, equates to approximately .002" the valve has recessed (worn) deeper into the head. Worn valves & valve seats affects compression (performance). So often I see guys addressing high oil consumption, replace the piston & rings, but don't refresh the head, only doing 1/2 the job IMO - most mid to high mileage engines could benefit from de-carboning, and at least lapping the valves to restore compression. The Eagle Mike head refurbishment program, at $190 USD, is a bargain IMO.

This is a head from an '01 Gen 1 that I took in trade (set a friend up with a 685 I built), and I think it had around 50,000 miles/80,000 kms (was a bad oil burner). This is, unfortunately, usually the condition I find heads in when I disassemble 'em.



The max width, as per the factory manual, for the valve contact patch on the valve seat, is 1.2mm, both intake and exhaust. The intakes are at max, and exhaust over 2mm. The valve seats are badly pitted, especially exhaust. This head requires valve seat regrinding, and two new exhaust valves.



Here's a few tools of the trade. I'll illustrate/document the process as I progress (if there's interest).

 

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I'd leave the EM AIS block-off with o-ring seal ALONE.

The interior color of the cam cavity is perfectly clean to my eyes from this distance, done!
 
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