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Discussion Starter #121
I am in a great mood from successfully removing my rotor with everyone's help here


so here are some weights for you data freaks.

Naked Gen1 2523 grams
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Naked gen2 2383 grams
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Gen1 sprag, spacers, rotor 4010 grams
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Gen 2 sprag, spacers, rotor
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The only difference outside of the rotor were a 2 gram difference between the sprag bearings.


Kickstart, idler gear, lever 1553 grams. The plastic bags weigh 7 grams.
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Starter gears 606 grams
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Starter 1997 grams
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Starter relay 193 grams
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I'm pulling off 6671 grams.

I'm adding 4076 grams. Naked gen1 rotor/kickstarter

I'm losing 2595 grams/5lbs 11.5 oz not including the other brackets/tabs/wires/killswitch & starter buttons/BATTERY
 

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Discussion Starter #122
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I installed the KLR600 transmission. I am waiting my Yamabond 4 to come in the mail to join my case halves. I am also putting in the KLR600 clutch and primary drive gear which will lower the gearing around 7% across the board.

Here is Tom's handy transmission chart.
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My simple mind comprehends this as approximately running 2 countershaft sprocket teeth lower in first three gears (somewhere around 1.5 for third gear) and 1 countershaft tooth lower in 4th and 5th gear compared to the stock gearing.

Dropping 3 teeth in the rear sprocket is like dropping 1 tooth in the countershaft sprocket.

Running the 16T/40T combo would be similar to 15T for the first three gears and 16T for 4/5. Really nice.

Geez, next thing you know I'll be measuring things in football fields. 😔I've become the person I hate.

I will be doing mostly street riding at this point and I live in Florida so the off road stuff I will be playing in would be gravel roads, sandy or grassy fields and nothing with much elevation change. Mostly large paved roads that you can haul ass on easily driving 80+ keeping up with traffic on I-75.

I can get some smaller rear sprockets 38 or 39 to really boost that top speed and also for passing on the highway.

Where can I find these lower rear sprockets? Maybe I am not searching correctly but I haven't seen anything in a few searches.

How can I calculate the optimal chain length?



Paul Westman Oil Mods®©™ are coming along. I made it through the new galley and ended up nicely behind the threads in the oil passage. I just need to open it up a bit, clean it up and wallow it out. The original oil galley is plugged and the cap is blocked. I have the NPT tap for the control orifice but haven't done it yet.

Would there be any negative to opening the oil hole in the filter cavity larger than the original or should I do my best to keep it close? I didn't want to go under and screw with my oil flow.

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...I installed the KLR600 transmission...
This made me so excited that I peed my pants a little bit.

...Where can I find these lower rear sprockets? Maybe I am not searching correctly but I haven't seen anything in a few searches...
Go to a manufacturer's website and find the sprocket that is listed for the KLR650. Then go look at that series to see what else is available. That series will have the correct bolt circle, hole diameter, bolt spacing, and chain fit.

For JT, the series is JT487: JT Sprockets: Catalogue

You can't find everything you might want; they only manufacture what is marketable. For example, Sunstar only make a 42 tooth for a smaller sprocket, but they make several that are more than 43 teeth.

JT makes a 37 and 38, then jumps up to a 42. There's some bike out there that has an OEM sprocket of 37 or 38 that they think they can market, but nothing between 38 and 42 that is marketable.

It's rather handy, though, because going from a 43 to a 37 is almost like going from a 15 to a 17.
 

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The oil port between the MAIN engine case oil pump Outlet and the clutch cover oil port Inlet in that odd triangle, will determine the maximum oil inlet flow to the oil filter. If your hole is slightly larger than that, you are good to go.
 

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Discussion Starter #125
Very helpful.

I think I will run a 16/38 which should be equivalent to just under 16T in the lower gears and just under 17T in 4th and 5th. I have the stock KLR600 15T I can stick back in and play with as well. This older system with the retainer seems to be easier for gear swaps.

This should be the limiting hole that Paul was talking about. I got a measurement of 7.1mm across but it is not circular. The original hole in the filter cavity is right around 8mm.

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Discussion Starter #126
Has anyone extracted the clutch arm oil seal part 92049-1560? The Clymer manual shows them prying it out with a flat head screwdriver and that isn't working for me. I even tried heating it up. I put some penetrant on it as well. This is from a 2002 so it has had 18 years to settle in.

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I have never seen a tool like that. It looks handy.
 

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Discussion Starter #129
Frame is mostly stripped down. I left the subframe on so I can drill out the frame for the EM subframe bolt kit and test fit it.

I am going to powder coat the frame after I grind everything off of it I don't want. Still trying to figure out the color. I am leaning towards boring flat black right now but might end up with something else. I initially wanted 80s flat/satin neon orange. My girlfriend does graphic design and has better eye for color so I'll run some things by her. I am probably going to powder coat the swing arm and maybe the rear suspension knuckle. I also have the big fugly natural IMS 6.6 now. I don't know if I posted a picture of that yet. It reminds me of glow in the dark plastic. I figured now is the time and I have gone this far. It is a very slippery slope especially with my obsessive/addictive personality.
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I was considering making up a flat subframe inner mud flap and pulling off the curved one that is in there now. Something like the back of the airbox in this video. I'm keeping the rear fender though.


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I had plenty of grease in my steering column. There is some rust on the shaft though. The bearing were nice and smooth and in good shape.
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Discussion Starter #130
EM subframe bolt upgrade is drilled. Very messy and I can see how you would have to take precautions when you have your airbox and carb opened up when your entire bike isn't an exploded parts diagram spread out across multiple areas.

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Discussion Starter #131
I got the "extra" tabs and whatnot ground off of the frame.

Kickstand swich wire holder
27388


I think this was for the kickstand switch as well. I forget. I took that off a long time ago.
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OEM bashplate mount #1
27389


OEM bashplate mount #2
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Dash/Headlight/front fairing bracket
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Wire harness long bendy metal tabs under the gas tank
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Rear brake switch tabs
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Starter relay mounts. I tried to do too much with the coarse grinding wheel in the drill. I should have swiched over to the dremel sooner. No major gouging anywhere though. I figure the powder coat will attach and mold into all the imperfections.
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i'm going to pick up some simple green and give it a good wash. I still need to clean up the swingarm and pull the bearings in the rear linkage knuckle.
 

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27403
 
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You NEED to weld closed, silicone over or thread & screw those 2 STUPID holes on the lower sub-frame pipes which the lower rocker pivot bolt passes thru, to prevent corrosion of the long pivot bolt.
1st pic of post #131.
 
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Discussion Starter #134
You NEED to weld closed, silicone over or thread & screw those 2 STUPID holes on the lower sub-frame pipes which the lower rocker pivot bolt passes thru, to prevent corrosion of the long pivot bolt.
1st pic of post #131.
I have never welded before and I am DYING to learn and buy equipment. I know that it will lead me down a wormhole of obsession knowing I can fabricate anything I can think up.

I was going to plug everything after I get it back since they have to sandblast and bake the powder coat. I certainly appreciate the reminder though. That bolt did not want to come out.

I am just leaving this here in case I need it for a future experiment. ELECTRIC BOOSTER PUMP (EBP23) KIT - PART No: 9050
 

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For this issue, I rather like the approach that @samuel took. Two 1/2" round bits of electrical tape with a smear of RTV across them.
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Discussion Starter #137
I tested my torque wrenches today ( Test results from Harbor Freight 1/4" 3/8&quot... ) so hopefully I will get my case put back together tonight with the KLR600 transmission installed. After I let the Yamabond 4 set up I can remount it on my stand and get the engine back together.

I pressed the bearings out of the swingarm and Gen1 linkage today with a shop press. I cleaned the frame, swingarm and linkage with simple green so they are ready to go to the powder coater. I still need to figure out the final color.
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I need to get some hours at work here so I can finish off the rest of my to buy list. I had a massive load of mulch dropped in my driveway and had to fertilize and get that spread in my yard which set me back a bit. The Cogent Moab is going to take a while to get here after I put in my order since they are backed up and slowed down so I will buy that first and probably end up throwing my old shock back in till it gets here. Still waiting on my DDCs. Not complaining at all. I know they are busy and I have heard nothing but great things about the company. At this point I'm not in any rush anyway.


KLR to buy

Cogent Moab = 670.95


EM raising links
EM head gasket
= 117.45


Double Take mirrors
Chain
Clutch Oil Seal
JNS Peg Lowering Mounts
= 280.76

Kickstand
= 165

Powdercoat Frame/swingarm

Kickstart circlip/washer



Long process but it should be pretty sweet. Practically brand new bike much different than stock. Hopefully it runs. Hahahahahhaahaha I thought about rebadging the engine cover simply with the word motorcycle.
 

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I hope that is Not your wifes car with the KLR frame on its engine hood? :)
 
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