Tom - Thanks for the quick note back and the metal lesson - I love that stuff! So stock stainless and they can be lapped? Definitely not magnetic. would the titanium be magnetic - guessing not - and if not, how to tell the difference i.e. did they use titanium valves stock not market with and "E"? How many sets of valves have you gone through to hit your 80k miles?
PD - In Virginia - agree that they are getting worn - probably at 18 - 20k (back to the spedo). Money is getting tight for this iteration though - Lots of mods this go around (320 rotor, ss brake lines, klr jet kit, 685 kit and bore from EM - Will they, in your opinion (IYO), last a season? My preference is to do everything but reality is bumping up against the order... wider seats with a fresh lapping might have to be there until the next valve adjustment - I have an extra head gasket - Answering why a $2500 bike needs $700 (plus the valve job) would be hard to explain.
- If I were going to replace them, what would I go with SS, steel , or titanium? Tom, PD, Buler, anyone IYO?
- IYO can I get a season out of them without damaging anything - oil problem should be gone and new piston / rings should fix most of the compression problem ... What is the risk of just lapping
- Goal is dependable for the season and longevity over the coming years - so yes - there will be a valve job in the future - I might even buy cutters to learn how ... but unless critical - it might have to wait. Got an Idea on a price?
Thoughts and guidance welcome!