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Discussion Starter #1
The Manuel's like 80 bucks so I wanted to know if anyone can tell me the torque specs on the engine when doing a top end. nothing in the bottom end. I have it apart now and the cylinders at the machine shop. I want all the head bolts n stuff to spec.
1989 KLR250 NOT 650
Thanks guys
George
 

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Head Bolts - 33 ft lbs, light coat of molybdemum grease.
Cam Cap Bolts - 104 in lbs
Cam Gear Bolts - 29 ft lbs, thread locker
Oil Tube Bolts - 87 in lbs
Rocker Cover Bolts - 69 in lbs

Please note some of these values are in foot pounds, some are in inch pounds.

EDIT: Welcome aboard!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The cam cap bolts...are those the pieces holding the cams on the head? and the rocker cover bolts...im drawing a blank here lol sorry
 

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You got it. "Rocker covers" is an ancient reference to what is commonly known as valve covers. Cam caps hold your cam in place.

INCH POUNDS

FOOT POUNDS

THEY ARE DIFFERENT.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Oh ok you confused me there for a sec. and yes i know the difference between inch and foot lbs lol. and one other question, what are the cam gear bolts? you talking about the gear on the cam itself? cause i had no reason to remove those.
 

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Oh ok you confused me there for a sec. and yes i know the difference between inch and foot lbs lol. and one other question, what are the cam gear bolts? you talking about the gear on the cam itself? cause i had no reason to remove those.
Then you should be good to go.

We like pictures.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
well i can take a few pics of putting my bike back together. I don't have work or school Monday so ill probably do it then.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
problem....

Ill post the pics from working on it later but i have a problem. Look at the pic. (that pic was taken with key out) The temp gauge goes from the line after the middle line to the tip of the triangle. and goes back and fourth constantly. also From a cold start from sitting in the 60 degree weather for four hours it only took the length of a football field st like 3000rpm for the temp gauge to go to the middle.


Maybe its because i didn't bleed the coolant lines? or something. all I did was pour it into the radiator. It burped a few times. This was from riding at 45mph at 4500rpm in 60-70 degree weather. Also my radiator fan does not work. when i put direct power to it, it works. so it must be the relay. i also cleaned grounds. but regardless it shouldn't get that hot without the fan going. And help would be greatly appreciated :)
 

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I suspect a bad connection from the temperature sensor. Go there and check all connections. It may be a short against something, but usually, a short will send the temp gauge to the red side pegged. As you just had everything in that region apart, I would venture that there is something not making a good connection after re-assembly. A bad connection would also interfere with your fan.

Here is a link to a wiring diagram for a KLR 250:

http://server6.theimagehosting.com/image.php?img=klr250d.JPG&album=24593&fullsize=1
 

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Discussion Starter #11
yea I have checked the connections when i put everything together i was already aware if those problems to i reassembled appropriately. But im going to remove the thermostat today and test it. also ill remove the temp sensor in the head and clean it. ill also try and see if their is any air in the block or lines. It also has a knocking when it first warms up. it did this before the rebuild. it goes away after warming up. it doesn't sound very good...but everything tight, crank bearings, valves adjusted right, new rings, new hone, new valve seals and valves lapped. its very confusing. im taking it to a buddy at a motorcycle shop to have him listen to it. ill have to put it in my truck because it only happens when its cold
 
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