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Well I was able to take a closer look at the shift lever, and sure enough the little bugger had moved a tooth or two upward. It was enough movement to cause it to hit on the sprocket cover, but only when shifting from 1 to 2, other gears cleared just fine. I moved it back to stock position using the dot on the case as reference and it is able to shift into 2nd. It didn't appear to be a clearance issue at first as it had clearance from the case, where it was hitting the sprocket cover was further in after the first bend in the lever. I'm surprised that it was able to move like that in just a months worth of daily use.

I don't think I have owned a bike with less clearance for adjusting the shift lever than this one, there is almost no ability to reposition the shift lever, and my boot simply doesn't fit under the stock one. Even with the extended lever I am still mostly shifting with the side of my toe. Weird design.

Anyway thanks for the responses, it helped me not get to far ahead of myself.
Have you seen the extended shift lever from Happy Trails? I just installed one on my'22 so I can use my heavy cold weather boots. Plenty of room now and the 1" longer lever makes all shifting smoother. $58 shipped...well worth it IMO.

Happy Trails Heavy Duty Shifter Kawasaki KLR650 All Years 1987-2022

Composite material Fashion accessory Strap Metal Art
 

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KLRs: 2013, 2005, 1998; 2017 HD Electraglide Ultra
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Topcone33: A little filing might fix the interference issue. A lot of people like the extended shift levers, but the downside to those is they stick out further, so more likely to catch on something or get bent if/when you drop the bike. Try the JNS lowering/back brackets FIRST.
 

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My '22 KLR also has issues engaging 2nd gear. Some days it's fine. Other days it'll happen 3-5 times, often in the worst possible location (pulling into 55mph traffic).

The bike is stock other than a few accessories. I plan on taking it to the dealer this spring.
 

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Did you check to see if the shifter is making contact in the upshift? I installed a Tusk extended shifter and placed it 1-notch higher to get my new Adventure boots under it. That's when I ran into the same issue so I put it back where it originally was. Turn out it was contacting the engine casing. Good luck!!
 

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I'm planning to take a look tomorrow. If that was the culprit wouldn't it effect shifting in other gears as well? I'll be taking an up close look at the shift lever tomorrow, and maybe throwing the stock one back on to see if it produces any changes.
A wise man told me “the simplest solution is usually the right one” check what was changed is the simplest solution.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Did you check to see if the shifter is making contact in the upshift? I installed a Tusk extended shifter and placed it 1-notch higher to get my new Adventure boots under it. That's when I ran into the same issue so I put it back where it originally was. Turn out it was contacting the engine casing. Good luck!!
Yes the IMS shift lever was just barely contacting the front sprocket cover. It was clearing the engine case just fine, as well as everything else and appeared to not have an issue, until we got under the bike while someone shifted and saw that the inner bend of the lever (closest to the shaft) was barely contacting that cover. Lowered it one tooth, and now can't fit my boot under it again lol.

I don't know why Kawasaki engineered the shift lever set up in such a way that the lever can't be adjusted up or down without running into interference.
 

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...I don't know why Kawasaki engineered the shift lever set up in such a way that the lever can't be adjusted up or down without running into interference.
There's no need for such expensive engineering to be done when the world is already full of angle grinders, abrasive disks, flap wheels, and cans full of black spray paint.

Grind an eighth of an inch off of something so you can get your boot under the shift lever. Skimming an eighth off of the radius on the lever is not going to hurt anything, nor would skimming an eighth off of the sprocket cover. If you need a quarter, do both. It's a KLR; this is how it's done.

We don't need no roads or no steenkin' fancy engineers.
 

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You have a few options. 1. Shift harder with passion and make sure you're fully clutching. 2. Take to the dealer and have them address it since it's still under warranty 3. Tinker with the clutch cable and disks to see what's going on. May not hurt to check and change the oil. I would go with number 2 just because it's such a new bike. A dog may be broken, better for the dealership to find that problem than you.
 

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Responders to the thread are encouraged to read the entire thread so that they don't post up a silly suggestion, a la FaceBook.
 

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Thanks for the suggestions, I have tried #1, (I have a Ural with Russian gearing, so I'm familiar with the need for shifting with passion lol) unfortunately - same results.
I did check all fluids, everything was in order, oil looks good.
And yea, I'll probably go with #2, but just want to try and avoid it as much as possible. I'm not all that thrilled with our dealership here so the idea of dropping her off with them for an undetermined amount of time is :sick:.

I'm also curious if anyone else has had any shifting trouble with the new model.
Love the comment about the Ural as my 2019 Ural does the same thing. On the bright side, never had any issues with my 2018 KLR with 15,000 miles other than burning 🔥 through some oil when I drive it at 80 MPH for extended hours.
 

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On the bright side, never had any issues with my 2018 KLR with 15,000 miles other than burning 🔥 through some oil when I drive it at 80 MPH for extended hours.
I have developed 4 cheap modifications which may reduce higher rpm KLR oil consumption some.
Look at mod #'s 7, 8, 9 &10 in this thread,

Relatively "Simple, Cheap & Easy" and totally reversible if one ever desired to do so.
 

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2016, 500 miles but adding up quickly, lowered pegs, fancy mirrors, thermobob soon.
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I have a like new gen 2 with IMS lever. I have rubbed the paint off the casing in 150 miles and have to exagerate shift into 2nd. Size 12 alpine star boots. Should i, can i move the shifter up or maybe down a notch might work better. Or maybe lower the footpegs. I need off road pegs anyway.
 
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