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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 2009 KLR was overheating on the last ride, close to the red zone in light city traffic after a 40 minute rural ride.

Thought I'd added too much oil. Drained the oil - was a bit foamy looking and viscosity was closer to milk than oil. Changed it for fresh.

Started it up and found it running cooler, but still higher than it should be. Fan wasn't coming on.

Followed the advice of a Youtube video - check the fan wiring. Watched someone jump their fan harness to ground and it started their fan. That didn't produce the desired effect for me. Brute force wasn't giving me much information, so I busted out the multimeter, and what I found was odd.

As far as I know, the fan circuit is wired directly (with a fuse) so it should have constant currently - which means the fan should work even if the key is turned off.

What I found for my bike is this: Key in off position = no current in the wires. Key in on position, 12v in the wires coming off the fan and going into the radiator fan switch. But even with current, grounding the harness wires didn't make the fan spin. Not sure if my jumper cable was the best though.

I bought this bike used, and someone already pulled the kickstand sensor, which I would have done anyway, but it shows that the electrics have been altered from stock, and there might be other suprises.

My question is: shouldn't those wires be live even with the key turned off? I'm about to look into the fuse, but if there's current when the key is turned to on - doesn't that mean the fuse is good?

It's a real head scratcher. Any advice would be appreciated before I pull off the tank, etc to get to the fuse. Then again, anything's better than blown valves and rebuilding the head, so here I am..
 

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My question is: shouldn't those wires be live even with the key turned off?
Generation 1, yes. Generation 2, no.

Fan runs even with ignition switch OFF on Gen 1; not so, on the Gen 2, AFAIK. (Correction welcomed.)

Recommend wiring diagrams (on this website and elsewhere on the 'Web) and your multimeter.
 

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Thats what happens when one doesn't pay attention to what year is being worked on, especially with YouTube & Facebook.
On here you posted in 2008 & up and identified your model year at beginning, very well done.

Where is your owners hand book or service manual?

The fan fuse is under the Seat of a Gen 2. Probably blown now, if you tried to jump both fan switch terminals to ground with the key On at some point.
Gen 2 the two wires are to be jumped To each other, not to ground as Gen1.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks! That's great news. Means the key behavior is stock.

So, when the key is in the ON position, current is in the harness at 12V. I'm assuming that means:

Fuse is good. Problem either the fan switch or the fan itself.

If the current is there, then the jump should make a working fan spin, yes?

Can I just jump the hot wire to the ground wire right on the harness, like a little half loop of similar gauge wire? Isn't that what the switch is doing anyway? Isn't that really the closet ground and grounding to the bike unnecessary?

I'm concerned that grounding to the bike isn't giving me a good connection, and I want to know if that fan is working or not.

Thanks again!

EDIT: posted before that last advice. If the current is there, fuse is still good, no? Please advise!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Okay, I jumped them together as per Gen II instructions. Fan is working well. Also found out that the coolant level was low. Bike now functioning within normal parameters. Probably seems dumb that I went to the fan without checking coolant, but as I said, I did have too much oil in the crankcase, so that's where I got started on the problem.

Thanks for your help!!
 

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Glad you worked through it. I type too slow to be of help, but we'll leave this here for future reference.




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