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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
The bead on my rear tire is extremely hard to break loose for some reason. I had real concerns about being able to do a field flat repair.

I saw Cyb's tubeliss conversion page on Smugmug. It looked reasonable so thought I would give it a go!

http://cyb.smugmug.com/gallery/7250813_ZxQA5#!i=465979444&k=BjwM3St

Just to make my case... I've tried various methods to break the bead. Tires irons eventually work but it takes many trips around the wheel and lots of force not something I want to rely on.

Hah my tire laughs at my puny C-Clamp


Even a bench vise doesn't break the bead without yanking the tire back and forth:



Ah finally after much wrestling and windex and I still have to flip the wheel and break the other side!



I know what you're thinking the rim must be gunked up or something tires shouldn't be that difficult well here's what the rim looked like:



So yea I don't know what the deal is but anyway. I used a wire wheel on a drill motor and cleaned up the rim. Spent a good amount of time cleaning around the spoke nipples. They had some rust/corrosion not too bad but I believe in good prep = good results.



I couldn't find a syringe like Cyb used for the Seal All so used a nozzle I had laying around



This is after 2 applications of the Seal All. The small bubbles formed during drying. I was carefull not to cause any bubbles when applying.



I had to order the valve stem from Napa it was the only one I could find that fit the rim without enlarging the hole, just in case this didn't work out and I had to put a tube back in. I used the household variety of Goop. Here's what it looked like after application:



on to part 2...
 

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Great job on the clean-up, wish I had done that to mine!

Could it just be the certain type of tire that is tough to break the bead? Is the tire really old or has been exposed to extra high heat/extra low cold? Did you have it over-inflated for a long period of time??? None of these things sound like the issue to me but I am reaching for straws... when I took the stem out of my tubes, the bead basically just fell off the wheel with little force at all. spooning new tires on, well that's another story. >.<
 

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Could it just be the certain type of tire that is tough to break the bead?
I've also had decent luck with the Metzler's the PO had on there, and the k761s I've had on. I read a trick for breaking beads somewhere that I've used: jam the flat of the iron straight in there, put a crescent wrench on the other end of the iron, turn the wrench/twist the iron 90°.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I've also had decent luck with the Metzler's the PO had on there, and the k761s I've had on. I read a trick for breaking beads somewhere that I've used: jam the flat of the iron straight in there, put a crescent wrench on the other end of the iron, turn the wrench/twist the iron 90°.

That's the first I've heard of that, I'll try it next change.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Great job on the clean-up, wish I had done that to mine!

Could it just be the certain type of tire that is tough to break the bead? Is the tire really old or has been exposed to extra high heat/extra low cold? Did you have it over-inflated for a long period of time??? None of these things sound like the issue to me but I am reaching for straws... when I took the stem out of my tubes, the bead basically just fell off the wheel with little force at all. spooning new tires on, well that's another story. >.<

All the back tires I've had on the bike have been hard to break. Kenda 244s and 761s, Shinko 2..? and 705, and a few others. Usually run about 36 psi.

I commute on my bike about 200 miles per week. Typically get <5k miles per back tire. Bike has almost 60K miles so I've been through a dozen or so rears.

I've had dirt bikes since I was a kid never had problems breaking the bead. I don't know why it's so hard on my KLR seems to be atypical from what I've read.
 

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I found running the front tire of an automobile over the motorcycle tire effective in breaking the bead; gotta be careful not to bend the motorcycle wheel rim in the process . . .
 

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Considered trying a tubeless conversion after having to cut the bead on an Avon Gripster that had been to Alaska. The thing that made me hesitate is the supposed difficulty of getting the tire to inflate without a lot of pressure behind it; something you can't necessarily get with a portable pump. Would be very interested to know how this works out.
 

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Take NOTICE of the RAISED RIB next to the drop center of the spokes!

The rim is built like a TUBELESS rim. A good tubeless CAPABLE tire like a GRIPSTER or ANAKEE, snaps ON.

A tube-type rim on a dirt bike doesn't have the raised rib. (Look at the KLR FRONT RIM) And a tube type tire is a looser fit. (Doesn't NEED to SEAL, the tube holds the air.)
pdwestman
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Take NOTICE of the RAISED RIB next to the drop center of the spokes!

The rim is built like a TUBELESS rim. A good tubeless CAPABLE tire like a GRIPSTER or ANAKEE, snaps ON.

A tube-type rim on a dirt bike doesn't have the raised rib. (Look at the KLR FRONT RIM) And a tube type tire is a looser fit. (Doesn't NEED to SEAL, the tube holds the air.)
pdwestman

Ah-ha so it is a tubeliss rim. I know it looked different than the front.

So I won't die, good to know!

Any tips on an effective way to break the bead without driving a car over it?
I've done that actually. Set the wheel on some 2x4s and had my wife ease up on it. Kinda spooky!
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Considered trying a tubeless conversion after having to cut the bead on an Avon Gripster that had been to Alaska. The thing that made me hesitate is the supposed difficulty of getting the tire to inflate without a lot of pressure behind it; something you can't necessarily get with a portable pump. Would be very interested to know how this works out.

It didn't take much pressure to seat the bead on mine. I'm thinking that a CO2 inflator would work. You would only need it if the bead was broken. I've had a couple of rears flats but the bead didn't break even after riding quite aways.
 

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Inflating tubeless ATV tires with a low-capacity compressor, a BAND of some sort (e.g., a rope, twisted taught with a stick) around the tread forces the bead out to the rim. Don't know if this geometry would work with a motorcycle tire or not; kinda narrow to support a band . . .

But, as mentioned above; if the bead isn't broken, no problem (e.g., typical puncture flat).
 

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Hey Spec -- thanks for linking me to this. How did your tubeless conversation hold up long term?
 

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Inflating tubeless ATV tires with a low-capacity compressor, a BAND of some sort (e.g., a rope, twisted taught with a stick) around the tread forces the bead out to the rim. Don't know if this geometry would work with a motorcycle tire or not; kinda narrow to support a band . . .

But, as mentioned above; if the bead isn't broken, no problem (e.g., typical puncture flat).
Another field-expedient technique (if you have a roll with you like all good KLR riders should) is to use the tape to seal the gap between the tire and wheel. It will hold the air in enough to get the tire to contact the wheel. When you're done, you can just peel it off. As noted by all, pretty unlikely you'd have a tubeless tire broken loose from the wheel due to a puncture flat.

Of, if you're gutsy, a can of starter fluid and a lighter is more entertaining.......
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Hey Spec -- thanks for linking me to this. How did your tubeless conversation hold up long term?

I've got about 4K miles on it, about time for a new tire.

The rim sealing is good no leaks. I've had trouble with the tire plugs:

http://www.klrforum.com/showthread.php?t=25146

I decided just to ride the tire plugged (instead of taking it off and doing an internal patch) just to see how it would last. I've had to re-plug the tire about 3 times now. The first one was holding air fine but was sticking out a bit after riding on it for a few hundred miles. I fooled with it and cut some off. Yea it started leaking.

Next one started leaking after about 1000 miles not sure why. By now the hole is bigger so I used 2 strings last time. So moral of the story is (for me anyway) don't rely on the strings for a permanent repair. They sure are handy though to fix a flat.
 

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I've got about 4K miles on it, about time for a new tire.

The rim sealing is good no leaks. I've had trouble with the tire plugs:

http://www.klrforum.com/showthread.php?t=25146

I decided just to ride the tire plugged (instead of taking it off and doing an internal patch) just to see how it would last. I've had to re-plug the tire about 3 times now. The first one was holding air fine but was sticking out a bit after riding on it for a few hundred miles. I fooled with it and cut some off. Yea it started leaking.

Next one started leaking after about 1000 miles not sure why. By now the hole is bigger so I used 2 strings last time. So moral of the story is (for me anyway) don't rely on the strings for a permanent repair. They sure are handy though to fix a flat.
Thank for the link -- I'll make sure to subscribe. I might just do this when it comes time for new tires.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thank for the link -- I'll make sure to subscribe. I might just do this when it comes time for new tires.
Don't convert the front rim. The front needs a tube to hold the tire on the rim. It doesn't have the raised inner rib to hold the tubeliss tire on like the rear (below).

 

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Don't convert the front rim. The front needs a tube to hold the tire on the rim. It doesn't have the raised inner rib to hold the tubeliss tire on like the rear (below).

Duly noted. If I indeed go about this mod and get addicted to 10 minute flat fixes, I might go Tube Bliss on the front. Last I looked they don't offer a 17" rear, but the front they would be good for.
 

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I would totally do this if I wasn't lazy. :ashamed0005: ;)
 

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Don't convert the front rim. The front needs a tube to hold the tire on the rim. It doesn't have the raised inner rib to hold the tubeliss tire on like the rear (below).

I wonder about this.

I would think that it's not the tube that presses the tire to the rim, but the air inside the tube that does the pressing. If it actually is the air that does it, then the air pressure should do the same whether a tube is there or not. In any case, the raised rib does help keep the tire against the rim in the case of air loss.

BTW, I plan on sealing my rims, too. I'm experimenting with different glues to find one I like.

Ron
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I wonder about this.

I would think that it's not the tube that presses the tire to the rim, but the air inside the tube that does the pressing. If it actually is the air that does it, then the air pressure should do the same whether a tube is there or not. In any case, the raised rib does help keep the tire against the rim in the case of air loss.

BTW, I plan on sealing my rims, too. I'm experimenting with different glues to find one I like.

Ron

The rib on the rear rim is holding the tire in place (once the bead is seated). The bead won't break with sudden air loss. Heck the bead won't break without a serious commitment!

In my experience once the front tire pressure is low enough the bead starts to let go (unlike the rear) Usually tubes don't fail catastrophically so you have time to pull over. If there wasn't a tube inside the front I would think that the chances of the bead breaking at speed would increase.
 
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