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Discussion Starter #1
OK mounted the tire, very easy without the tube BTW. I don't have a compressor so headed off to a gas station. I was prepared to do battle to get the tire inflated and seated on the bead but turned out not to be a problem. I sprayed some windex on the beads and turned on the air. The tire filled right up and popped on the bead at about 25-30 psi. I was kind of shocked actually. Sorry no pics. So I took it home to check for leaks

What Honey? What am I doing in the tub? nothing, nothing...



No leaks!

Installed the tire and rode it to work today. No problems hey this is going to work!

There's no tube in there really!




I followed Cyb's procedure pretty much.

Things I learned.

It took 2 full days to apply and let the sealants dry. It's hot and dry where I live so YMMV. I did 4 spokes at a time anymore than that and the sealants start to seep off the nipples. I would have to wait about 15-20 minutes to do the next 4. I did one entire coat of the Seal All and let that dry for several hours and then applied the 2nd coat. I let those setup over night and then applied the Goop. Same procedure 4 spokes at a time. Let the Goop set up overnight. I got some larger bubbles ocasionally and was using a sharp object to get rid of them but discovered it was better just to stick the nozzle into the bubble and inject more sealant.

As Cyb mentions the Goop is extremely tough and mounting a tire is not going to damage it.

Usual disclaimers... you could die if you try this! I don't think I would do this if I aired the tires down significantly for off-road use, no rim lock of course. The spoke nipples will not turn after sealed so don't do this on a new wheel that's not settled in.

I bought a tire plugging kit and carry a tube for the front so theoretically I'm good to go!
 

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Are you going to continue to run a rear tire designed for tubes (but without a tube, of course) or are you going to switch over to a true tubeless tire?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Are you going to continue to run a rear tire designed for tubes (but without a tube, of course) or are you going to switch over to a true tubeless tire?

The tire is a Shinko 705, it's tubeliss. Been running them with tubes for a few years.
 

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I understand that the sidewalls on tubeless tires are stiffer and more robust than those of tubed tires but didn't know if that really matters for your application or not or how the bead of a tubeless tire would fit with the KLR's wheel rim/bead area. Interesting project you tackled there. Seems like it worked out pretty well.
 

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I've thought about this but using a different process. I like this better.

I'll be interested in your results over the long term.

I have the luxury of 2 sets of KLR wheels so this may be a winter project.
 
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