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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Time to change my original tubeliss back tire. I've got about 5K miles on it and about 4K of those was with a plug in the tire!

Removing the old tire:



There's worms in that tire!



Here's how the rim looks, not any different then when I sealed it that I could tell:



Ready to mount the new tire:



Tire mounted. Notice how the tire sits in between the 2 ridges of the rim. I aired it up and the bead popped on at about 30 psi.



So there you go tubeliss works for me. This will be my last thread on this, just wanted to update for those interested.

 

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Looks like it's working. It's nice to see somebody do this and give detailed long-term reports instead of the usual, "Yeah, I've got a friend who's buddy's cousin's dad did it, etc. etc."

It's not for me, but you've given me proof enough that I now consider this technique a feasible option for rapid and effective flat repairs on the rear where it seems like 99%, if not all, puncture flats occur, at least with any kind of riding I tend to do.

If I rode as much as you do, I'd strongly consider doing it.
 

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Tubeliss

Just wondering... Can you tighten the spokes without creating a leak?


Here's how the rim looks, not any different then when I sealed it that I could tell:



Ready to mount the new tire:



Tire mounted. Notice how the tire sits in between the 2 ridges of the rim. I aired it up and the bead popped on at about 30 psi.



So there you go tubeliss works for me. This will be my last thread on this, just wanted to update for those interested.

[/QUOTE]
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Just wondering... Can you tighten the spokes without creating a leak?

No don't think so.

You could always re-seal spokes individualy if need be. That's the advantage of sealing the rim this way vs. a rim strip type seal.

Usually a rim will settle in after awhile and not need spoke adjusts.
 
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