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Discussion Starter #1
My turn signals went wonky on the way home from work.
My Rt side is still working, flashers and dash blinker.
The Lt side is not, both flashers and dash blinker are out.
I'm wondering if it is the flasher thumb switch or just one
of the signal bulbs?Would having one bulb out kill the
entire side Rt or Lt and the dash flasher???


I have done a little checking and so far I am only finding the
entire switch assembly for sale, ie the turn signal, hi/lo headlight
and choke combination. I was hoping to find the switch as a separate
unit, is there a part number for just the switch or will I
be stuck having to purchase the entire assembly? I have an 09klr.
Thanks.
 

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Stinker -

The most likely cause is a bad bulb. Check that first. If it is not the the fix, come on back and we'll go from there.

The switch is very robust; not a likely source of failure. The next most likely is a shorted wire.

I'm betting on the bulb, though.

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I checked the bulbs, bases and sockets.
Blubs and bases are good, no power to the sockets.
I'm thinking now I could be chasing a short.
When I switch the Rt. Side now it will not always come on.
When I cycle the ignition. key the right will start most of the
time, Lt side never. No power to either signal socket.
I checked the horn because it looks to be part of the same
power leg and it works fine.
There does not seem to be any way to get contact with the switch wires
in the switch assembly to test if it is receiving power on either side.
If I was certain the assembly or wires in the assembly were bad I would
just swap it out but I now wonder why cycling the key switch would
make any difference for the Rt. side.
 

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Yeah, I had linked to a searched page. Take gander. It turned out to be some shorted wires were making turn signals act like yours.

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
In the stock switch the black/yellow is ground, what is the hot color?
I will take the switch apart again and try to test the wires.
Power on/off & ground

O well no luck. I did notice that when I try my Lt. signal
my Neutral lamp gets weak then brightens backup in. A one time
deal tho. if I cycle the Lt switch again it does not affect the N. lamp.
Guess I will need to park my bike until I figure this out.
Last time I had a short my bike died 2mi from home,
that was a long push.
 

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Turn signal

When I have to test voltage on hard to get to components, I use a small "T" pin used by seamstresses. The pin is in shape of a "T" and allows you to attach a clip lead from your meter to the pin's head.
I locate a point on the wire, back away from the component, and push the pin into the wire to make contact with it's inner conductor. It only leaves a small hole in the wire's insulation. Makes it easy to probe with out disassembling anything.
 

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Stinker -

There's a wiring diagram here. The hot color for the blinkers is light green or white. White is the right side. You can see it in the picture in the first link, post #29.

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The link will not work, not found after several tries.
Its got to be a short, now the RT. is out half the time.
 

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Something is wonky here on the forum with links. The software seems to be transposing stuff in the URL.

Got to the subforum "2008+ KLR650 Wrenching & Mod Questions" and look for a stickied post called "Handy Spec Sheet for Gen2".

It should be the 'page 1'sheet' attachment.

And yes, if it is intermittent it's likely a short. The area up near the regulator would be the best area to start looking in.

Tom

This is the page URL. h ttp://www.klrforum.com/showpost.php?p=165761&postcount=1

This is the page the forum takes you to: h ttp://www.klrforum.com/!p165761!http://www.klrforum.com/showpost.php?p=165761&postcount=1
 

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You guys say, "Must be a SHORT."

No contradiction, but . . . could the problem instead be the result of an OPEN?

Looks to me like an open circuit (in this case, intermittent) could be the problem.

A wiring diagram and multimeter might tell the tale.
 

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The link will not work, not found after several tries.
Its got to be a short, now the RT. is out half the time.
I would look for an open or loose connection rather than a short.
A short usually blows a fuse or burns a wire.:fiddler:
 

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Interestingly, the turn blinkers will not. The only time mine would blow a fuse was when the emergency flashers were activated and all four were going. Even then, it blew the fuse in my emergency flasher circuit, not one of the main 15A fuses.

It's a mystery to me as to why, when the green wire shorted, it did not blow a fuse.

That's sound advice, though, to look for a bad ground or loose connection before tearing into the harness. It sure could be an open, as you and Damocles point out. Intermittent stuff is a pain in the butt.

Tom
 

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If just one bulb or connection on a side is open and the other on the same side is good, the good bulb/connection will come on solid, but not blink. The indicator bulb on the dash gets its ground through the bulbs on the side opposite the turn, so if both bulbs on one side were out on one side, the dash light would blink when signaling to that side, but it would not blink when signaling to the good side because it could get no ground through the bad side.

Since the dash light works for right turn, at least one of the left bulbs must be good to provide a ground for the dash light even though they don't light with the left turn switch on. I would suspect a bad contact in the switch for left turn or a bad connection in the green wire (left turn wire) at the switch. It is not hard to open the switch and check/clean it.


The ignition switch has nothing to do with only one side working. It sends power to the turn signal relay (flasher) which sends on-off-on-off power to the switch on the left handle bar. Everything works off the same wire up to the switch. Only at the switch are left and right separated. That is all the switch does. I selects which side gets the on-off flashing power.

Take the switch off the handle bar with two screws. Inside is a white plastic piece which is the actual switch. Take out the single screw at the back which holds a spring and ball in place. Don't let the spring and ball go flying. If you want, you can take out the screw in front of the spring/ball screw. It is a little more difficult to get to, but no spring to worry about. Then remove the other two screws that hold the switch in the housing and pull the switch out a little.

You will see three wires
Orange = flashing power from the flasher into the switch
Green = flashing power out to the left side
Gray = flashing power out to the right side

With the ignition on jump between Orange and Gray (I used needle nose pliers) and the right side should blink.

Jump between Orange and Green and the left side should blink.

If both sides work when you make the jump, the wires are good and the problem is in the switch. I think you can pry some tabs out and take the switch apart to fix the problem. You would have nothing to lose.

If only one side works when you make these jumps you know the problem is in the wiring, fixtures or bulbs on the non-operating side. If it is in the wire, I think it will be between the switch and the first branch of the wire that goes out to the blinker since non of the lights work on left and a break past that branch would let that light work.
 
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