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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all, i just got some Tusk D-sport tires in today, is anyone else running these?

They seem like D606 tough, super thick sidewalls and an aggressive tread patttern. I'm gonna replace my worn old D606's with them and see how they compare For like $135 a set it seems worth trying.

So is anyone else here on this tire?
 

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I have the rear on my DRZ, and it digs pretty well, I was picking up the front end when I was expecting it to spin. I'll be putting the front on soon. I've heard good things about them on the 701, so when I kill the TKC80 rear I'll install one there as well.
 

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I'll suggest that the two of you should contemplate the front tread pattern On the Ground.

<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< vs >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Which way scoots the gravel, sand & mud to the sides as you apply the front brake.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I have the rear on my DRZ, and it digs pretty well, I was picking up the front end when I was expecting it to spin. I'll be putting the front on soon. I've heard good things about them on the 701, so when I kill the TKC80 rear I'll install one there as well.
Nice, that's the way my 606's feel when new, these seem like a similar tire in terms of knobs and sidewall stiffness.

I'll suggest that the two of you should contemplate the front tread pattern On the Ground.

<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<< vs >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Which way scoots the gravel, sand & mud to the sides as you apply the front brake.
Why, is the front rotation direction arrow wrong? I didn't look closely at the tread direction vs the arrow, but i'm going to mount them later today.
 

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Nice, that's the way my 606's feel when new, these seem like a similar tire in terms of knobs and sidewall stiffness.



Why, is the front rotation direction arrow wrong? I didn't look closely at the tread direction vs the arrow, but i'm going to mount them later today.
Which tire are you referring to?

A driving tire / rear tire needs to be installed in the common 'tractor tread' direction, to keep from plugging up in sticky soils.
The front tires on motorcycles are only 'Driven' by the roadway and driven even harder when on the brakes properly.
Any 'tractor tread' grooving (street tires) or tread blocks/knobs (dirt tires) need to scoot the water or loose soil to the sides rather than scooping it into the center-line.

IMO, these Front Tires have incorrect directional arrows on their sidewalls.
Dunlop D606, Tusk D-sport, Kenda K761
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Which tire are you referring to?

A driving tire / rear tire needs to be installed in the common 'tractor tread' direction, to keep from plugging up in sticky soils.
The front tires on motorcycles are only 'Driven' by the roadway and driven even harder when on the brakes properly.
Any 'tractor tread' grooving (street tires) or tread blocks/knobs (dirt tires) need to scoot the water or loose soil to the sides rather than scooping it into the center-line.

IMO, these Front Tires have incorrect directional arrows on their sidewalls.
Dunlop D606, Tusk D-sport, Kenda K761

I looked at it when i installed it and you're right, the tread seems 'backwards' I put it on so the sipes will eject stuff under braking so opposite the labeled rotation direction.

I rode these today, i dig it, it's easy to lift the front and i've got good stopping power on dirt and paved. I really like how easy it is to break the rear sideways with good control, at least on my road. Steering with throttle is easy, drifting over crests, through off camber corners, and landing jumps into downhill turns is confidence inspiring, it feels right when i send it.

They do feel like they have quite a bit of resistance on tip in at slower speeds but i'm adjusting. I tried tractoring over some dirt lumps and rock piles and it feels hooked up. They're a bit squirmy in a straight line on pavement but i imagine once they get scuffed in good they'll get smoother. I didn't get any knobby wobble laying it over in the canyon run but i didn't quite get all the way over to peg dragging ether. It just started pouring after my ride so maybe when the rain passes i'll see how they handle wet and mud.
 

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I put on the Tusk DS rear for a Death Valley ride earlier this year. (130/17).

Did 250 miles of pavement from San Diego. Rode another 400-500 miles of mixed dirt, rocks, gravel and pavement while there. Then I did all pavement back.

The tire held up really well. Felt like a street tire on the pavement and a D606 off-road. I’m a fan.
26464
 
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But, hey, tires can only do so much...the rider is responsible for keeping them pointed down.
26465
 

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I put on the Tusk DS rear for a Death Valley ride earlier this year. (130/17).

Did 250 miles of pavement from San Diego. Rode another 400-500 miles of mixed dirt, rocks, gravel and pavement while there. Then I did all pavement back.

The tire held up really well. Felt like a street tire on the pavement and a D606 off-road. I’m a fan.
View attachment 26464
That is a bad assed looking rear knobbie! ! bet that was fun to wrestle on with a set up tire irons. line6
 

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Oh how I wish it were.
And you should see the beautiful video...
26467
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Lol, I bent a tire iron getting mine on. if i never have to wrestle them off at night in rain or snow i'll be happy. Hopefully the thick sidewalls will help stop pinch flats.

And yeah they're gnarly offroad, but not bad at all on the road. As they break in they feel a little less squirmy. I really love the way they slide, effortless and predictable. I gotta be careful though about digging trenches up my road when it's wet, these things seriously dig in and till soil when they're hooking up.

Dan Diego, that looks similar to my riding style and terrain, got a link to the video?

Here's mine, a '93 and it's getting close to finished. It's filthy because there's no place to wash it within 30 miles and i haven't been down that way yet, all the car washes locally closed down and that green tank behind the seat is my water supply for my house, but it's almost ready. I got a good 7" round steel headlight bucket coming this week and an LED headlight, i'm gonna order a Trailtech Vapor and hopefully someday get the proper battery bracket that's been on backorder from Kawasaki for over a month. Those are Tusk barkbusters from around 2005 and i got a Tusk bashplate that i'll put back on once it's washed and i'm done with the next oil change.

Then i just need to get some side luggage and go ADVing in those hazy mountains in the background across the valley.
20200726_181748.jpg
 

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My brother got us both sets for our KLRs back in March and I'm just now hitting 2000 miles on mine. They replaced Shinko 705s - a very street biased tread. The front felt really knifey on the street at first, and the rear lightly rubbed my exhaust pipe down by the s-bend when hitting big bumps. As the front got a few hundred miles scuffing in it settled down (or I got used to it). I went from a 16T to a 15T countershaft sprocket and the resulting chain adjustment solved the rear tire pipe rub issue. They stick on pavement better than they should by the looks of them, and feel way better than 705s in the dirt. I've been running 25 psi and it seems to be a good compromise. The front is now getting some cupping-type wear, and the rear looks to be at about 50%, so I expect to replace them within 1000 miles. Seems to be well worth the money to me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
My brother got us both sets for our KLRs back in March and I'm just now hitting 2000 miles on mine. They replaced Shinko 705s - a very street biased tread. The front felt really knifey on the street at first, and the rear lightly rubbed my exhaust pipe down by the s-bend when hitting big bumps. As the front got a few hundred miles scuffing in it settled down (or I got used to it). I went from a 16T to a 15T countershaft sprocket and the resulting chain adjustment solved the rear tire pipe rub issue. They stick on pavement better than they should by the looks of them, and feel way better than 705s in the dirt. I've been running 25 psi and it seems to be a good compromise. The front is now getting some cupping-type wear, and the rear looks to be at about 50%, so I expect to replace them within 1000 miles. Seems to be well worth the money to me.
Right on, i run a 14T front sprocket, and i've got my exhaust shimmed out of the way from the 606 i had on there.

I've got over 200 miles on them now, with a bit less than half of that on pavement and they're starting to get less knifey on the road. Offroad they're great, i rode a longer loop the other day and took them through the entire range from paved, to gravel and dirt road blasting, a short highway run to connect more dirt, several water crossings varying from rock garden to mud bogs, sand, and all manner of rocks and ruts.

I like how they hook up and dig good but are still easy to break loose with almost no effort.
 

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well i have no good words for the D-sport..ive had a set on my DR650 and Now My New KLR came with a set...both bikes showed same problem, Ive been working with RMATVMC last few weeks on this issue, regardless i wont buy another set

tried psi- 18-20, 20-22, 22-24 26-28

ive rode many different tires, these are the worst so far.

on the road they are super squirelly, both bikes have a pretty bad wobble, left to right at about 65-70, not a uncontrollable tank slap, but a sketchy wobble. low speeds(in town) they seem fine.
my front slides out alot on gravel at my normal "intermediate" speed, again slower speeds/single track/mud, they seem ok.
the DR made the rear always hunt for traction, under braking or accel, klr dont show this problem.
unknown tread life, as hard as they are probably an ok amount

final take- they look really good, and hey are cheap, thats it for me.
 

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well i have no good words for the D-sport..ive had a set on my DR650 and Now My New KLR came with a set...both bikes showed same problem, Ive been working with RMATVMC last few weeks on this issue, regardless i wont buy another set

tried psi- 18-20, 20-22, 22-24 26-28

ive rode many different tires, these are the worst so far.

on the road they are super squirelly, both bikes have a pretty bad wobble, left to right at about 65-70, not a uncontrollable tank slap, but a sketchy wobble. low speeds(in town) they seem fine.
my front slides out alot on gravel at my normal "intermediate" speed, again slower speeds/single track/mud, they seem ok.
the DR made the rear always hunt for traction, under braking or accel, klr dont show this problem.
unknown tread life, as hard as they are probably an ok amount

final take- they look really good, and hey are cheap, thats it for me.
I will Strongly Suggest that the front D-sport needs to be installed reverse of the arrow on the sidewall.
The front tread pattern is kind of tractor tread, >>>>>>>>>. Turning this around to <<<<<<<< allows the marbles to be scooted to the sides rather than scooped into the center line.

Think about it. Look at front tire treads from the worms eye view.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I've got a couple hundred pavement miles on them now and running at 20psi, they've settled in pretty good and stopped wobbling, but they do love to follow any pavement seams.

For my terrain offroad they hook up decently except in marble gravel over hardpack in a few spots but still let me snap the back loose really easy and predictable. The only time i've washed out the front aside from brake locking to find the limit was over stuff that i'd expect to wash out on, marble sized gravel over hardpack off camber turns. There's about 3 spots on my road like that where if i try to drift the front end starts coming out


The biggest cons i've found with them are the bit of wobble before break in, and getting it onto the 'chicken knobs' on pavement gets a bit sketchy, it wobbles at the edge before it breaks loose unpredictably into a chunky slide with some hop. My 606's would wobble at the edge a bit, but these squirm a bit more and the 606's would slide smoother once they broke free. I could drag pegs and drift supermoto style on the 606's where these might feel a bit sketchier to pull off consistently.
 

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20 psi? maybe you are more of an afficianodo than I or your off road routes make that low of a pressure more ideal.
But dont set up my bike . . . sounds too soft and squirrely best of luck line6
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
20 psi? maybe you are more of an afficianodo than I or your off road routes make that low of a pressure more ideal.
But dont set up my bike . . . sounds too soft and squirrely best of luck line6
Lol, my bike is set up for dirt and weighs a lot less than stock, so 20psi on a KLR that probably weighs well under 350lbs is a lot more in the range than a 400+ lb machine. I also run something like 7.5w oil up front with highly preloaded progressive springs, it makes it feel a lot more like a dirt bike and makes it easy to lift the front, keep it up, and get it to float over washboard. I've tried a LOT of different fork oils when i rebuilt the forks, and ended up really liking a 50/50 blend of 5w and 10w. I've got my eye on some of those emulators as well. My bike is an entirely different machine. I've ridden my buddy's 100% stock bike one day side by side, same exact bike, a '93 "Barbie" edition. We were on dirt and he couldn't keep up. We traded bikes so he can try my modded machine and getting on his bike compared to mine felt like i was trying to ride a 500lb vespa scooter offroad. Now i was a half mile behind and he was sending it on my bike, haha.

Most of my riding is offroad and higher pressures don't hook up well over the ruts and washboard, they feel really good at 20 now although they make a bit of noise on pavement. I've tried pressures from 32 on down, at 32 they felt like rocks and wouldn't work with the suspension. I just kept going down till i hit 25 and rode for a hundred miles or so on 25, then went down to 20 where they really feel like i want them to. They hum a bit more on pavement at 20 but they feel nice and stable. There's some places i ride that work with even lower pressures. I carry a 12v compressor and don't mind changing pressures occasionally, but 20 seems to be a good balance for daily grocery getting while still being able to go full send on dirt.

Usually i've got to ride about 5 miles or so of pavement to get through town. The 'road' to my place is a 1000' vertical climb over a few miles of the kind of dirt i'm set up for, with a mile or so of twisty paved canyon from the pass down. Once i get through town i hit dirt again for like 20 miles, ride about 1/4 mile of highway and back into the dirt for hundreds of miles if i want, occasionally crossing or doing a mile or two on pavement to connect to more dirt.
 
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