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The 20W50's, 15W50's and many 10W40 Automotive oils (as I understand) do NOT have the super slippery additives of the 5W40's, 10W30's and thinner grades called for in the modern automotive engines due to their tighter clearances. But it is highly advised to not use any automotive oil which carries the "Energy Conserving" label on it, regardless of grade.

The Arco Graphite oil of the mid to late 70's caused nearly instant clutch slippage in at least 1 Kawasaki H-1 500 triple. That oil must have even caused some automotive problems, because it wasn't on the market for very many years.
 

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Car oils with friction modifiers wont kill your engine. But, they "modify the friction".

This changes the point where the clutch may slip. But, if you arent riding hard you may never see that point.

And they may last after they are changed.

The fact that you havent seen it cause a problem only means that you are either not aware if it or are not riding hard enough to force it to happen.

It doesn't mean that it isn't changing the friction point where your clutch may/will slip.

YMMV. I choose to run what the engineers recommended when they built the bike.

Engineers tend to kniw what they are doing.
 

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I would not recommend oil that is designed for diesel trucks....like Shell Rotella. Use a good MOTORCYCLE oil that is Jaso MA approved. My favorite is MOTOREX Top Speed 4T 10w40.
While not motorcycle specific, Shell Rotella T4 and T6 are JASO MA/MA2 rated. Says so on the container..
 

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Me either.

And I ran Castrol 20W-50 automotive oil in my old Nortons and Triumphs for years. I can hear the suspension "purists" squealling as I type this, but I have used and continue to use ATF in the front forks in all my bikes.

Jason
Absolutely nothing wrong with ATF in forks.. High mileage ATF is even better as it keeps the seals pliable and sealed up, ATF is nothing more than an hydraulic oil with some high pressure additives. In my opinion, fork specific fluid is marketing snake oil. Mt antique Honda ( still with all the orig internals) came from the factory with the same oil in the forks that was in the engine.. I think people over think fork oils. Main thing is getting the proper weight hyd oil to suit your valving.
 

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You may need to hold the bike vertical for 1-2 minutes with cold oil to allow the cold oil to flow thru the bearings & passageways first thing in the AM.

You will get used to its habits, cold & hot. A window Full is a good thing!
Thank you pdwestman I am living by the code a full window is a good thing. Stupid dipsticks they will never last a thing of the past.Thanks again
 

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I never like scorching my fingers on a Hot Metal dipstick on any motorcycle anyways. Too hard to see hot, thin, clean oil on many of them.

I've loved the simplicity of oil windows on bikes since the 1973 Kawasaki Z-1 900 days.
 
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