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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, any last minute tips out there for doing the valve check and adjustment on the Gen 2? Just checking, have the Clymer manual and am comfortable working on my bike but throwing it out there as books don't teach as well as experience. Thanks all.


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It is possible that the threaded boss on the top of the cover that the air injection pipe clamp attaches to will hit the top tube of the frame, making it impossible (or at least very difficult) to remove the cover. This happens on a few '07 and up (they introduced the cover with the boss on it late in '07 production), but it is rather a rare occurrence.

Other than that, you should be good to go.

T
 

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Ok, any last minute tips out there for doing the valve check and adjustment on the Gen 2? Just checking, have the Clymer manual and am comfortable working on my bike but throwing it out there as books don't teach as well as experience. Thanks all.


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I found this to be a good video for my first time...


hope it helps...It is Gen 1 but the process is the same...Also have some RTV for the gaskets afterwards, and watch out for the abyss...that deep dark hole on the left that if you drop anything into, will make your day that much longer...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the tips guys. Been watching a lot of videos as well as reading. Used to working on bikes but it's the first time I'm tearing into the upper engine of the KLR. Bike only has 6500m on it but i dont trust Kawi recomendations of 15000m. Really!? We'll see, I'm betting I have a couple out of spec based upon how the bikes been running lately.
I ended up getting EM shims as I have been happy with his Doo and he was much cheaper than a dealer. They wanted fifteen a shim here, plus I would have had to tear into her and leave her sitting while I went to get them. His whole kit was only 25.more with tax and shipping. I'd rather have the parts ready. Plus I have a buddy that is looking into a KLR so figured having some spares might come in handy down the road. Hopefully I won't be a lucky one that has an impossible cover. I'll let y'all know.
Thanks again!

Mike


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Those clip/nut things for the radiator fan bolts seem to dislodge very easily and are easily lost. Try to get your finger back there to hold them when you take the bolt out so they don't fall somewhere you can't find them.
 

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Thanks for the tips guys. Been watching a lot of videos as well as reading. Used to working on bikes but it's the first time I'm tearing into the upper engine of the KLR. Bike only has 6500m on it but i dont trust Kawi recomendations of 15000m. Really!? We'll see, I'm betting I have a couple out of spec based upon how the bikes been running lately.
I ended up getting EM shims as I have been happy with his Doo and he was much cheaper than a dealer. They wanted fifteen a shim here, plus I would have had to tear into her and leave her sitting while I went to get them. His whole kit was only 25.more with tax and shipping. I'd rather have the parts ready. Plus I have a buddy that is looking into a KLR so figured having some spares might come in handy down the road. Hopefully I won't be a lucky one that has an impossible cover. I'll let y'all know.
Thanks again!

Mike


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Good move, I checked mine at 12k and it I had one intake at .08mm when the spec is .10-.20mm, so I am concerned what would happen if I left it until 15k....

Which shim kit did you order? I required 255 to replace the 265 stock so I ended up with a 0.18mm. From this site I learned that the shims can be ordered at 0.05 intervals 250,255,260, etc.

Good luck...let us know about the experience.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I ordered the Eagle Mike kit. It gives you 12 ranging from 2.35-2.70. Check out or google search Eaglemike.com. I used his doohickey with torsion spring and have had good results so I chose his manufactured shims. Plus they were half the price of the dealers. Only cost me 25.00 more with shipping than just 4 shims from the dealer. I will say I unfortunately experienced the "abyss of doom" with one of the dang spacers, my own fault, was checking and did not use my magnet for a single spacer... Murphy bit me. I had to take of the lower engine cover and remove the rotor to get it. It was fun... Thanks again for the tips. It did make the rest of it easier.


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Are EM # values different from stock?
How were your valves? In or out? I suppose I should check mine someday.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
They're numbered the same. I had one valve completely out of spec, the other three all on the tighter side of tolerance so I adjusted them out while I was in there.


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In only 6500 miles?
Have you noticed any changes while starting or riding it now after the adjustments?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Savage,
Haven't ridden it yet as I didn't finish until late last night but it starts now without giving any gas and after only a turn or two of the starter. Idles better, had to adjust the idle mixture screw down actually, I'm guessing when I had to enrich it awhile back was when they started getting tight. I ride a lot of higher RPMs, not sure if that would affect the valves quicker or not but I'm glad I didn't wait until factory recommended, engine would not have been a happy one. It may have taken me awhile this time due to Murphy's Law, but next time I have to get it there it will be a cinch.


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Glad to hear your valve adjustment was successful, ArcticKLR. My experience was similar to yours. I checked mine around 6000 miles. One was out of specs, one was right at the limit and the other two were okay but I went ahead and just adjusted them all out.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
That was exactly as mine was Planalp. I wonder if there is some type of pattern. Two points make a line in my field. Three, a pattern... Who else out there has adjusted there valves around 6000 miles or below half of factory recommendations? (7500 miles)Just curious what your results were. If enough respond I will start to collect some data.


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