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You reference Gen 1's 1.5's and 2's for this method, but do you see any reason why this method would not work on the Gen. 3 as well? I'm about to perform the valve clearance check on mine.
It works on the Gen3 and it cuts down on the amount of work needed. It sure as hell removes that scary moment when you first start the engine and thoughts of whether you aligned the camshafts correctly and counted the right amount of pins on the cam chain.
 

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Well - wouldn't it be nice if the manufacturer (Kawasaki) actually specified what shims were in place on each of the four valves and gave this information to the buyer? Then you could go ahead and order the required shims without needing to take the existing shims out of the buckets...but then again - wouldn't it be nice if manufacturers actually greased steering head bearings and axles...
The experts here say the Gen 1 and 2's required valve inspection at 600 miles, but Kawasaki removed this requirement on the Gen3. Judging by all the findings from those of us who did our valve adjustments (usually tight valve clearances), this was an error of judgement by Kawasaki. They should require a FIRST valve inspection somewhere between 600 miles to 1000 miles. My exhaust valves were super tight.
 

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You reference Gen 1's 1.5's and 2's for this method, but do you see any reason why this method would not work on the Gen. 3 as well?
I try not to recommend too much 'stuff' that I haven't personally performed on a specific model. I've only properly adjusted a brand new Drive Chain on a 2022+ KLR650.


It works on the Gen3 and it cuts down on the amount of work needed. It sure as hell removes that scary moment when you first start the engine and thoughts of whether you aligned the camshafts correctly and counted the right amount of pins on the cam chain.
One still needs to confirm that the Lazy 'T' on the flywheel & cam sprocket arrows are in proper time by rotating the crankshaft 2 full turns CCW before re-measuring corrected tappet clearances & installing the valve cover.
 

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The experts here say the Gen 1 and 2's required valve inspection at 600 miles, but Kawasaki removed this requirement on the Gen3. Judging by all the findings from those of us who did our valve adjustments (usually tight valve clearances), this was an error of judgement by Kawasaki. They should require a FIRST valve inspection somewhere between 600 miles to 1000 miles. My exhaust valves were super tight.
Okay - good information! If you are just checking the valves...all you need to do is get the pesky cover off, rotate the engine CCW, get the marks in place and the stick your feeler gauge in there, correct? the actual tough (and for me intimidating) part comes when you are swapping out the shims for correct size new ones...right? Reason why I am asking these stupid questions is I am meeting a friend from the US in Medellin in about 6 weeks and he could bring the new correct shims easy enough - shipping stuff to the Philippines is like going to the moon.
 

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You still need to know which shims you have installed so no. If yours are out of spec, you'll need to remove the shims to read the number on the shim and/or use a micrometer to check their thickness. Once you know what you have, then you can have your friend order them.
Thanks - obvious to me now...
 

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2008 KLR650/685 tricked out / 2008 XR650L / 1988 XLV750R
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I am meeting a friend from the US in Medellin in about 6 weeks and he could bring the new correct shims easy enough - shipping stuff to the Philippines is like going to the moon.
If you can only get parts once in a lifetime check your parts shelf and order consumables while you're at it.
-Oil filters
-Air filter
-Air filter oil
-Brake pads
-Chain and sprockets

-Wheel and Steering bearings ?

It's always better to have parts than need parts.
 

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If you can only get parts once in a lifetime check your parts shelf and order consumables while you're at it.
-Oil filters
-Air filter
-Air filter oil
-Brake pads
-Chain and sprockets

-Wheel and Steering bearings ?

It's always better to have parts than need parts.
I totally agree! I had a set of rear brake pads just start to go to the metal - was in a panic and then went through my "parts tupperware" and found a new set! I always buy parts when I am in the USA - but I am banned for 3 years due to covid when I got stranded there and overstayed my visa - customs and immigration are heartless mindless morons - but will return after February 2024 - have had one shipment from Rockymountain MTB - new clutch etc. -but it got stuck in customs for 2 months in Manila and in the end I had to pay a fee (bribe) of 200 USD for them to release 390 dollars worth of parts!
 

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Okay - good information! If you are just checking the valves...all you need to do is get the pesky cover off, rotate the engine CCW, get the marks in place and the stick your feeler gauge in there, correct? the actual tough (and for me intimidating) part comes when you are swapping out the shims for correct size new ones...right? Reason why I am asking these stupid questions is I am meeting a friend from the US in Medellin in about 6 weeks and he could bring the new correct shims easy enough - shipping stuff to the Philippines is like going to the moon.
Yes to the first part. Make sure you are in the correct TDC with the T-mark on the crank. Meaning, when you get to the T mark, check the position of the camshafts. The "pointed" tips of the cams should be facing slightly up and outwards of the cylinder (not facing inwards). You'll understand what I mean when you see it. Another way of knowing is you will feel the crank want to spin and will spin slightly anti-clockwise on its own sort of, as you are turning it, right before you get to the correct TDC. I do believe the camshaft arrows will align on the cylinder head when you're in the correct position.

And as Reveille mentioned, you have to measure first, before knowing which shims you need to swap and what size. I recommend you get the smaller shims for your exhaust. I'm guessing around 2.45, 2.40, or even 2.35. The intakes might be ok at 2.55 or 2.50. One of my exhaust valves wanted 2.35!

You will need to pry the shims off the buckets. The buckets have these notches where a small screwdriver fits into for prying shims. You will also need a telescoping magnet to get the shims out from under the camshafts.
 

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...got stuck in customs for 2 months in Manila and in the end I had to pay a fee (bribe) of 200 USD for them to release 390 dollars worth of parts!
Why the crap are you living in the PI? I've been there twice. Not necessarily a bad place. It has some beautiful areas, and some horribly crappy areas too. People are super friendly. Horribly muggy, and lots of big ass bugs. Traffic in the cities are a nightmare. Smog...lets just say it gives sunsets and sunrises a nice hazy brown and cool look to them. The women love you if you're a Westerner.
 

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Why the crap are you living in the PI? I've been there twice. Not necessarily a bad place. It has some beautiful areas, and some horribly crappy areas too. People are super friendly. Horribly muggy, and lots of big ass bugs. Traffic in the cities are a nightmare. Smog...lets just say it gives sunsets and sunrises a nice hazy brown and cool look to them. The women love you if you're a Westerner.
Everything you write is true. With one addendum; "The women love you if you're a Westerner" - and you have money! As is the case with all women everywhere! And in the Philippines once they have milked you for a house and land...there ain't much love to go around! Its a great place to ride - I love getting on a RORO ferry and waking up in the early morning and your on another island...crank up the KLR and roar off to explore! Thanks for the above valve check advice.
 

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I have some stories regarding 3 trips to the Philippines back in the 80s but they're not appropriate for this forum. Maybe if we tip a few red horse and San Miguel back one day I'll divulge a few nuggets...
A friend that was there in the military mentioned a game called "Smiles" in the bar and something to do with a "Basket" and a bed that he found while he was there. That's the "G" rated version!

Willie
 
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Discussion Starter · #100 ·
I have some stories regarding 3 trips to the Philippines back in the 80s but they're not appropriate for this forum. Maybe if we tip a few red horse and San Miguel back one day I'll divulge a few nuggets...
Stopped at Clark AB a few times myself, never for any great length of time, but I had a nice time each visit.;) Right after I got out a volcano buried the place.
 
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