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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys I did my valve adjusting on my 97 it has 18k miles on it. I set the valves to the loose end of the specs on all 4. One exhaust was at 0.050 before I started and one intake was a slight tight as well. I adjusted 3 shims. I didn't notice anything weird during the initial test ride but then I changed the oil and filter and I hear some valve noise. I did the screwdriver to the ear thing and sounds like the tapping is mostly the right side primarily. I didn't jam the feeler through it just a little resistance like the two magazines idea.

Is it weird or can I ride it? Please help I'm going to ride the dempster this summer. It seems pretty loud. When she cools off I'm going to recheck the clearances.

Pre adjust
Exh 005/010"
Intake 004/005"

Post adjust (without start just cranked by wrench a couple times)
Exh 010/010"
Intake 008/007"
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
I wanted to emphasize that I didn't hear too much noise before I changed out the oil with fresh oil and the noise seems to get louder as the bike gets hotter. Does the cam chain tensioner get done on a hot or cold engine?
 

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Mechanical tappets should have a little tic,tic,tic. Verses hydraulic tappets which 'should be' silent. Some KLR people suggest, "slappy valves are happy valves", Not I.

I personally try to shim for either a lightly snug fit on the widest feeler size or settle for a perfect to loose fitting 1 size under Max. That way I am never beyond maximum specs.
An overhead cam, shim & bucket system will always wear the valve faces & valve seats faster the the cam and bearings should ever wear, so the system tends to always tighten up on the clearances. (About every 10-20k miles) Unless other terrible things happen. Such as improper air filter servicing, melted air box due to exhaust leakage or heaven forbid, lack of sufficient engine oil volume/flow. (notice I didn't say pressure)

The Cam Chain Tensioner is an Automatic spring loaded unit which you had to disturb at least the spring to do a valve tappet adjustment.

The Engine Balancer Chain adjuster locking Lever (aka, Doo-Hickey) on the other hand needs to be Manually loosened to allow the spring to do its duty.
I strongly urge people to turn the flywheel bolt CCW til TDC before making a doo-hickey adjustment. This allows the balancer weights and all of the chain slack to be on the proper side of things. Hot, Cold or luke-warm, doesn't matter. But only 70 inch pounds on the locking bolt please.

ps, Did you use a 1/4" drive Inch Pound Torque Wrench to torque your camshaft bearing caps to 106 INCH Pounds?
 

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I have not had an oil change cause an increase in noise. But, sometimes I listen a little more closely while looking at the new oil foam a little in the sight glass.

While you are rechecking take a look at the automatic compression release on the right end of the exhaust cam. They can make some noise.
 

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Sounds like an exhaust leak to me.
 

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Sounds pretty normal for possibly a loose fitting .010 inch feeler on the the exhaust tappets.

Clean side / under side of air filter box needs an occasional inspection because of the exhaust pipe joint behind the rear brake reservoir. It is possible to build a better heat shield as seen here, by our own Tom Schmitz.
Melted Reservoir, Dogs! (Airbox, too)
 

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Noisy valves are happy valves. They tighten up over time and get quieter. That's why we adjust them.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Hey guys I pulled the valve cover again and double checked the clearance. I couldn't get 0.011 through the exhaust and I couldn't stick 0.009 through the intake. So I think those are ok. I don't think my oil was overfilled because the bubble was at the very top of the line but I drained about 200-400ml out and now the oil is definitely in between the marks. I check it with the bike level, right? The noise got quieter with reducing the oil level. I was wondering, could someone explain Why does the valve noise calm down slightly with middle oil level? I have a decibel app on my phone I should've taken a before and after
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Btw comment I had a hole in the dirty side of the airbox which I patched with some aluminum sheet and silicon sealant. The clean side checked out. I had the subframe off to weld a crack so I did the airbox repair then. I put the clean side carb boot on with some #2 rubber sealant and I also smeared a little on the seam between the two plastic halves of the clean side. Probably OCD overkill but whatever I'm about to head north to canol... dempster, and AK. Long ways from any parts up there.
 

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Hey guys I pulled the valve cover again and double checked the clearance. I couldn't get 0.011 through the exhaust and I couldn't stick 0.009 through the intake. So I think those are ok. I don't think my oil was overfilled because the bubble was at the very top of the line but I drained about 200-400ml out and now the oil is definitely in between the marks. I check it with the bike level, right? The noise got quieter with reducing the oil level. I was wondering, could someone explain Why does the valve noise calm down slightly with middle oil level? I have a decibel app on my phone I should've taken a before and after
Having the oil level at the top of the sight glass with the bike standing straight up is NOT over full. It is just fully full and will not hurt the engine. Some knowledgeable people here strongly suggest that it be kept there religiously. Personally, I don't loose sleep if the level drops a little before I top it up.
 

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Having the oil level at the top of the sight glass with the bike standing straight up is NOT over full. It is just fully full and will not hurt the engine. Some knowledgeable people here strongly suggest that it be kept there religiously. Personally, I don't loose sleep if the level drops a little before I top it up.
agreed though I won't let it drop below the top line.

Dave
 

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Ok I get that its fine at the top level, but why is the valve noise louder? Seems strange
I just gonna' suggest that the valve noise is not any louder. Just your fear that you might have not done a 'perfect job'.
Better safe than sorry, yes?
 
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I'm curious as to whether you ever got to the bottom of what was causing this noise??
 

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How loud we talking? Properly adjusted valves on this should be noisy. Noisier than before you reshimmed and loosened them up. How's it run? Tip-in is good, idle is well, and top end screams along?

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 
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