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I am planning on attempting to check and adjust my valves soon.
10k plus on my '05.
I have marknets procedure printed out and have watched the youtube video a few times.
Does anyone have some tips or experience to share as I build up my database for this procedure? Any advice from tank removal to shims I will humbly take...
Do the shims need to come from Arrowhead? or should any motorcycle shop have the correct shims? I ask this because I would like to check them, determine which ones I need, and then purchase them, instead of buying the large shim kit for $90.
Thanks.
 

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I just looked at the U-T00b videos...he makes it more difficult than it is.

Don't remove the motor mount or the plastic thing that holds the wiring loom. When you start to replace shims don't take off the sheet metal sound dampener thingy, there is enough room to tilt the cams up enough to get the shims out. No need to tie up the cam chain nor remove the cams.

If you're not riding right now you can order the specific shims you need. Arrowhead is really fast on shipping..a coupla days at most. Don't forget, you'll be going down in shim size...adjusting to the loose end of the range.
 

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Go though theprocedure until you check the current clearance. As soon as you know you need to change a shim, remove the spring cap and spring for the cam chain tensioner, then remove the cam chain tensioner body and reset the plunger. This will give you more slack in the chain, and will make it easier to properly seat the cam bearings halves. After the cam bearing halves have been torqued back in place, then install the cam chain tensioner body, spring and spring cap.

Go slow the first time, make sure you do things in sequence.

You can also get shims from a beemer dealer. They are much cheaper than any Kawasaki dealer. I can get them here in town for about $5. They are the shims for the early (2 valve) K bikes. They also have a larger size range.

all the best,
Mike
 

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My biggest problem was getting the valve cover off, finding that sweet spot and pushing the radiator forward a bit to remove from the left side. Was able to reuse some old shims I had kept in my toolbox from a Z-1 I had 30 years ago. Yep, a pack rat for sure.
 

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Was able to reuse some old shims I had kept in my toolbox from a Z-1 I had 30 years ago. Yep, a pack rat for sure.
:)

Man, I know that feeling!! I was able to use some old crush washers and instrument bulbs from my old BMW airhead days on my R80.. I haven't had an airhead BMW in almost 10 years, but they worked just fine when needed.
 

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I did my valves for the first time last winter. Before I started I went to local dealer and asked the kid at the counter if they had a good selection of shims in the range I was guessing I needed. He told me (with out looking) that he had a good selection and should have everything I needed. I asked the price and he quoted me (again without looking) 5 or 6 bucks. I went on my merry way home and took the bike apart. Figured out the shimms I needed and ran back the 20 miles to the dealer. He had 1 of the 4 I needed and wanted almost $14 for it. I went home and ordered shimms (they were less than half the $) from arrowhead and they were here 4 days later(pretty good all the way to AK).
 

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-Do yourself a favor and remove the fan.
-You need a thin pick or the likes of to remove the shims from the bucket.
-The bucket has a small slot in it. Using the pick you can rotate the bucket around to where you can get the pick under them shim to raise it out of the bucket.
-The shims are marked, example: 270, 265, 260, 255, etc. Each of these shims is .002" difference. If you have a 265 shim in the engine and the intake valve clearance is measured at .006" and you want to increase the clearance to .008" you would replace the 265 shim with a 260 shim.
-Check with your local dealer or motorcycle shop to see if they would trade you. If they say yes it beats paying for them.
-The simple part is being able to use one of your shims for another valve. Common though not common enough.
-Do NOT over tighten the valve cover bolts. The threads are weak and if you strip them you will need a helicoil kit, drill and patience.
-When you replace the plug wire make sure the wire is pointing forward. Looks wrong though it is correct.
-Don't lose the hockey pucks or tank mount vibration dampeners. They have a way of finding teh oddest places to hide in your garage.

This process is more simple than you think. Break it down into 'step by step' and you will be able to see the big picture.

If you have any concerns or questions you can call me. I will PM you my cell phone number. EagleMike does the same for his Doohickey.
 

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Tim, good post but what's the deal with the plug wire routing?
The plug wire can be mounted in both direstions, toward the spark plug and away from the spark plug. If most first timers are left to reinstall the plug wire without assistance they will point the plug wire toward the spark plug and actually the plug wire points away from the spark plug and uses up the loop of spark plug wire.

Other things to watch for...
...leaving the ground wire off of the fan.
...not plugging the wire onto the temperature sensor on the bottom of the radiator.
...trying to install the leftside valve cover bolts in the rightside.
...tell me if this is correct. The cam caps are torqued at 55 inch pounds and the valve cover is torqued at ?? inch pounds.
...use a 1/4" drive torque if one is available. The torque readings are in the middle of the scale and should be more accurate.
...forgetting to reset the ratchet on the cam chain tensioner.
...making sure you see the T mark (it is on its side) for the timing.
...make sure the feeler gauge is separated. Do not let the .004 and .005 or the .005 and .006 or .006 and .007 feelers get together and give you a false reading. If you are using the .008 feeler you should be able to see the .009 and .007.
...there must be more.

These are things I have seen repeated at Tech Days.
 

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when you measure the clearance, you want the cams pointing out is that correct? when you are doing that are you suppose to be TDS or at the other line? my cams only point out with the other line straight up (im working on a pic to clarify). Then you rotate it to TDS and pick out the shim, yes? Also the i remove the current shims, read the measurement, then add .oox to get them to .008? I dont have the figures for what they are supposed to be. are they all .008? Assuming all of that is correct, what would you advise on these figures:

Right intake .006"
Left intake .004"
Right and Left in/ex at .007"

would you change the exhause shims or leave em for now? FYI my problem has been a poor idle in 2003 with 12000km.

THANKS for the help. thankfully i can ride my wife's KLR while i work on mine:18:
 

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i can't seem to post pics. i did find some spec, can anyone confirm that they are ok for 2003. exhaust .006-.010 and intake .004-.008 ? if they are correct i have answered my .008 for all question. I am still a bit worried that my timing might be off. i have yet to read wether you measure the gap at TDS or at the other mark (|) in the window? i know i need to change the shims out at TDS. thanks.
 

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gotta love self solving problems. i went back to it and just kept rotating the crank . eventually the "T" lined up and the cams were pointed out. the measurements were the same anyway. i pulled the cams and removed the shims. time to see if i can get some new ones now.
can someone check my math pls. i couldn't download the calculator, but i think the brain works ok.

right intake: clearance .006, goal .008, shim 260, therefore changing to a 255 shim should open me up 0.002 to the goal of .008.
left intake: clearance .004, goal .008, shim 260, therfore changing to a 250 shim should open it up .004 and meet the goal of .008
right exhaust: clearance .007, goal .010, shim 250, therefore changing to a 245 should open the gap to .009 (.001 short of the goal)
left exhaust clearance .007, goal .010, shim was a 250, therfor changing to a 245 ...... as above.
also i can use the 250 in the left intake, eh?

Also anybody got torque specs for all this crap. i have the valve cover at 69 in/lbs. thx
 

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gotta love self solving problems. i went back to it and just kept rotating the crank . eventually the "T" lined up and the cams were pointed out. the measurements were the same anyway. i pulled the cams and removed the shims. time to see if i can get some new ones now.
can someone check my math pls. i couldn't download the calculator, but i think the brain works ok.

right intake: clearance .006, goal .008, shim 260, therefore changing to a 255 shim should open me up 0.002 to the goal of .008.
left intake: clearance .004, goal .008, shim 260, therfore changing to a 250 shim should open it up .004 and meet the goal of .008
right exhaust: clearance .007, goal .010, shim 250, therefore changing to a 245 should open the gap to .009 (.001 short of the goal)
left exhaust clearance .007, goal .010, shim was a 250, therfor changing to a 245 ...... as above.
also i can use the 250 in the left intake, eh?

Also anybody got torque specs for all this crap. i have the valve cover at 69 in/lbs. thx
You got it. Your valve specs are correct.
 
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