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So, not overly a mechanic, but know a little about valves and settings.
Why, is it mentioned that the valves on the KLR, get tighter, not looser, over time?
 

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its not just the KLR.

as the valves bed into the valve seat / head, the gap between the valve stem / bucket /shim and the cam lobe gets smaller or tighter.

that's why they tend to get tight in the early life of the engine then remain mostly constant as the years go by, as they're fully seated..... in the seat.
 

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My KLR has 1700 miles on it - when should I check the valves?
Any time between now & 10,000 miles or if you notice it doesn't start as readily in cooler temps than it used to.
Snug valve tappet clearances adversely affect the cold cranking compression of the engine.

I always perform a cold cranking compression test both before & after valve tappet adjustments to chart the possible gain.
 

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2009 KLR 650
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8 Posts
Any time between now & 10,000 miles or if you notice it doesn't start as readily in cooler temps than it used to.
Snug valve tappet clearances adversely affect the cold cranking compression of the engine.

I always perform a cold cranking compression test both before & after valve tappet adjustments to chart the possible gain.
Thanks! I completed the doo torsion spring, thermobob, KLX jet kit, air injection blockoff, and deep hole fixes when the bike was new. It's never burnt any oil but I'm doing the oil fix with the new banjo bolts and crank orifice now anyway. I hope to be riding this bike for as long a time as I have left. I appreciate all the tech info on how to make the KLR the best it can be.
 
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