Kawasaki KLR Forum banner

1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I'm getting ready for the '11 Iron Butt Rally on my new (to me) '09. I'll be running a lot of gear (aux lights, GPS, charger for phone, heated gear (for rides coming up very soon), etc.

I'm worried I will over-tax the charging system and start having battery issues. Anyone have any recommendations on upgrading the stator / regulator? I don't want a crazy one (like a 400w I saw recently), just a solid 280w - 300w or so.

Thanks!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,928 Posts
I'm getting ready for the '11 Iron Butt Rally on my new (to me) '09. I'll be running a lot of gear (aux lights, GPS, charger for phone, heated gear (for rides coming up very soon), etc.

I'm worried I will over-tax the charging system and start having battery issues. Anyone have any recommendations on upgrading the stator / regulator? I don't want a crazy one (like a 400w I saw recently), just a solid 280w - 300w or so.

Thanks!!

You can reduce the power consumed by the bike somewhat by replacing the bulbs with LEDs (brake, license, turn signals, dash indicators). Really though the bike only has about 100 watts to spare without the high beam on.

Install a voltage monitor and switch off stuff as needed. I have a GPS, heated grips and a heated jacket liner. With the high beam on I have to turn off the grips. I don't think you can run all the stuff you want all the time.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,263 Posts
I haven't experimented with upping the wattage output......I have tinkered with lowering the wattage draw. I did away with the stock signals and license plate lamp, replacing them with LED lights. Roughly a 30 watt cut back in usage. Enough to power my heated gloves. I did install an ODYSSEY PC 545 sealed battery to deal with the constant draw down / recharge I put the bikes through. I'm conservative with the high beam light usage. I have rode 480 miles in a day where temps ranged from 6 degrees F to 19 degrees F, with several hours of night riding through mountains on secondary roads. The heated gear and lights got a workout, as did the electrical system. At no time was I uncomfortable, and I was far more concerned about running out of oil than I was of running out of watts.

http://www.odysseybatteries.com/battery/pc545series.htm

http://www.batterymart.com/pdf_files/odyssey_guide.pdf
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,928 Posts
I haven't experimented with upping the wattage output......I have tinkered with lowering the wattage draw. I did away with the stock signals and license plate lamp, replacing them with LED lights. Roughly a 30 watt cut back in usage. Enough to power my heated gloves....

The turn signals only use power when they're on and I think that the license plate bulb is 5 watts so I don't think you got a 30 watt reduction.

The only way to really know what's happening with the charging system while riding is to monitor the voltage. I like the Signal Dynamics Heads Up Voltage Monitor be warned though the LED is extremely bright when it trips. I mounted it in one of the dimples in the dash and ended up covering most of it with black silicone seal to tone it down.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
All very interesting. I will definitely plan to reduce draw to 'make more room' for my stuff. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
663 Posts
Sorry to jack you here Edamron…. I have the same question, Only my bike is a 1997. What is the best/biggest charging system that I can install on my bike? At present I have a stock system.
Jake
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,263 Posts
All very interesting. I will definitely plan to reduce draw to 'make more room' for my stuff. :)
I used the LED modifications as a general reference to an attempt to conserve wattage. To list specific, my wattage reduction is probably closer to 28 watts. Three bulbs in the instrument cluster replaced with LED's with an estimated savings of 10 watts, the 1157 tail light replaced with a LED, cutting back on about 5 watts, the license plate light replaced with an LED, saving 5 watts. Utilizing hillbilly ciphering, I come up with an approximate total of watt usage reduced: 20 watts.

The turn signals and brake light don't create a constant draw. Turn on a turn signal and hit the brakes and you just spiked about a 50 watt power draw on a system that may be over taxed already. LED's have reduced that draw to less than 3 watts.
Ignoring the turn signal LED's, as they don't have a constant draw of wattage, the replacement bulbs @ the taillight, tag light and instrument cluster of LED design use a grand total less than 3.5 watts. The 1157 replacement LED bulb sucks 1 watt. The tag light LED draws .55 watt. The instrument cluster draws 1.65 watts with the replacement LED's. = 3.2 watts.

Hillbilly math:

20 watts reduced by eliminating the stock light bulbs
-3.2 watts added draw of LED replacement light bulbs
16.8 watts conserved

Not an LED modification, but an attempt at energy conservation none the less: Running a 45/65 H4 headlight. 10 watts less than stock headlight wattage, and producing about 300 lumens over stock out put. Upgraded wiring does not reduce consumption of wattage, but has cut out bulb failures.

So.....
16.8 watts conserved by installing LED's
10 watts saved by installing a 45/65 headlight
26.8 watts conserved. I exaggerated by 3.2 watts.

Worth the effort on a bike that only puts out between 196-238 watts, depending on your generation of bike. The Gen II bikes can use H7 headlights that draw 45/65 watts and create about 25% improvement in light cast down the road, while conserving another 10 watts of energy. The Odyssey battery can easily handle any short term negative draw my equipment might create. The RPM's required to achieve optimum wattage output by a KLR 650 is high. [ 14V, 17A @ 7000 rpm] My bike has never been operated at those RPM's.
I ride year round, use heated gloves and jacket liner whenever needed, no longer use aux lights, and I haven't been stranded for an electrical issue yet.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
97 Posts
I'm getting ready for the '11 Iron Butt Rally on my new (to me) '09. I'll be running a lot of gear (aux lights, GPS, charger for phone, heated gear ..........

Thanks!!
The '08 and later were upgraded over the older models to 240 watts. As others have said going to LED instrument and turn signal lights reduce your power consumption by about 30 watts, that's about 2.5 amps.

Please accept this schematic for the '08s and beyond to help you decide on your accessories.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
165 Posts
Not to question your judgement, --or jack a thread--but I've got three friends who've done several IBR's. The "smallest" bike of the three is a Wee-Strom. So...why a KLR as opposd to A Versey?
Mac
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,333 Posts
Sorry to jack you here Edamron…. I have the same question, Only my bike is a 1997. What is the best/biggest charging system that I can install on my bike? At present I have a stock system.
Jake
There are numerous companies with 280 watt stators for the older KLR's. I think they are all manufactured my Electrosport but can't swear to that. I don't feel that the stock R/R is quite up to the task of the extra power. Others have used the stock R/R with the 280w stator with little issue but that was not the case for me. If you upgrade the stator, give serious consideration to upgrading the R/R to a mosfet unit. http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/R_R_Connectors/r_r_connectors.html
A digital voltmeter is also a must to keep tabs on the power draw from those electrical acessories.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
charging system upgrade

I know it's been 2 yrs since your post but I'm facing the same problem and I'm wondering what you ended up doing. I see they have the 280 watt stator for my 09 now, so I'm leaning that way. Let me know what you did and how it worked out. Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Is it possible to wire in and stow a second battery in a side box, and have a switch for it to charge from the stock stator back and forth? In automotive applications battery stores power that 12v items run on. Our batteries are really just for starting the engine. I imagine police bikes have got to have multiple batteries, probably multiple stators or full on alternators like cars as well.

Late to the party, I know. At least I'm not selling anything in my first post as a member on here.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,928 Posts
Is it possible to wire in and stow a second battery in a side box, and have a switch for it to charge from the stock stator back and forth? In automotive applications battery stores power that 12v items run on. Our batteries are really just for starting the engine. I imagine police bikes have got to have multiple batteries, probably multiple stators or full on alternators like cars as well.

Late to the party, I know. At least I'm not selling anything in my first post as a member on here.

The Gen 2 uses the battery to run the ingnition. There's about 100 watts available on low beam.

Police bikes are usually sport touring type with high alternator outputs. A BMW puts out something like 800-900 watts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,636 Posts
The best way is to change out every bulb to LED and switch headlights HIDs, then think about the draw and how to reduce it to a workable amount over what the bike can produce.

There is no free lunch in this department...I'm afraid......the higher output stators produce their power higher up in the RPM range from what I have heard or read which means if you are in stop and go type riding speeds you won't be getting as much power as the stock stator can give you. Many have swapped to the 280 WATT stator with happy results, but there was a time when this was a risky issue from bad products. There used to be a 400WATT stator and it went the way of the DO DO.....

We only have so much, so the best way is to reduce and save as much as you can then think replacing the stator.....this is an old game which no-one has beaten easily......some have done as I said me included but still I run the stock stator......run a automotive voltmeter , the old 2" round gage and watch it like a hawk......if it dips below 12, think about what is sucking power and adjust. The LED gages aren't as accurate from what I have seen...just saying.....the old school needle is way more accurate and easier to see while riding.

It's a hard egg to crack....sorry.....:13:
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top