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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all,

New to the forum. It's been a help so far in some other topics with my 2015 KLR.

My issue has to do with overly milky oil. I had a river crossing go sideways on me, literally, and the bike tipped into the water. I've managed to get it dried out and idling well once more, but the milky oil is persistent.

I've performed 3 oil changes so far and the oil is only lightening up a little so far. It's still milky.

My question is about the type of oil I flush it with. Since this is wasted oil, I would like it to be on the cheaper side, but it also has to work and not foul up the bike when the entire engine has been cleaned. I used Castrol Actevo to do two flushes yesterday.

Any suggestions on oil type?
 

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I might be in the minority on this but I'd say after 2 changes, I'd just ride it out. The heat from the engine will steam that water right on out of there. If you rode it home, you've already run it w a high dose of water mixed in. To that point, I'd say if you aren't already that you should be running the engine for a "bit" between the changes anyways. Water will be up in the passages and the fastest way to move it out is to circulate it out.

Even I would have to gauge my dare devilishness against how much water is actually still mixed in. Although I can't tell you what that level would be without seeing it firsthand.

sre
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I might be in the minority on this but I'd say after 2 changes, I'd just ride it out. The heat from the engine will steam that water right on out of there. If you rode it home, you've already run it w a high dose of water mixed in. To that point, I'd say if you aren't already that you should be running the engine for a "bit" between the changes anyways. Water will be up in the passages and the fastest way to move it out is to circulate it out.

Even I would have to gauge my dare devilishness against how much water is actually still mixed in. Although I can't tell you what that level would be without seeing it firsthand.

sre

Thanks, Steven. That's almost where I am now. It's pretty milky still. Will get a change in there, take it around the block, then repeat the process.

But I didn't ride it home. I was lucky and got rescued by a rally rider with a truck. I didn't risk the 200 mile ride home.
 

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Thanks, Steven. That's almost where I am now. It's pretty milky still. Will get a change in there, take it around the block, then repeat the process.

But I didn't ride it home. I was lucky and got rescued by a rally rider with a truck. I didn't risk the 200 mile ride home.
Around the block won't do it. You need to put fresh oil in and go for a ride that gets the engine temperature up to full operating temperature (at least 3/8 of the way up or higher on the temp gauge) for several hours. Even better if you can periodically get the temperature high enough to have the fan kick on.

You're just prolonging the agony with around the block rides!!
 

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R/L

Thanks for that.

Would the milkiness change at all with the flushing? Or will it require the full evaporation of the liquid inside?
It doesn't take but a bit of H2O to create milky looking oil. Get the bike up to operating temp and take it for a nice trail ride. She'll be fine.
 

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If this submarine had been my project, I would have purchased 4 quarts of the Cheapest SAE 30 or SAE 40 straight grade oil from where ever & 2 bottles of HEET brand ISO-Heet in the red bottle.

I'd have drained the wet oil COLD & drained & re-used the existing oil filter.

Re-fill 2 QT oil & 1 bottle Iso-Heet. Ride it a mile or 3 until the engine starts to run RICH due to alcohol fumes coming up the crankcase vent to the air box.
Return home & change oil with Iso-Heet again, including draining / re-using old oil filter.

Repeat ride & drain. Install new oil filter and your preferred flavor of engine oil & GO Ride Your Bike, normally 20-30 miles.

Should be milk free this time. :)
 
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