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Discussion Starter #1
I miss judged the depth of a water crossing and swamped the engine.
After several hours of messing around I was able to restart the bike, however I now had a milkshake in the oil.
I have changed the oil several times but I can't get the site window to clear up.
Does anyone have any suggestions?
 

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Have you gotten the oil good and hot since you swamped the bike? I seem to remember that it will clean up with regular running, with the hot oil cleaning off the window with regular use..

Like I said, I "heard" this, but can't verify that it'll work..

Worse case scenario, you can always take the cover off and replace the sight windo with a new one.
 

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I wonder if pouring in a couple of litres of kerosene or diesel fuel would clean it up. Of course you don't run the bike. Just rock it back and forth gently and drain it out. Fill with some cheap oil, run it for a couple of hours and then change the oil again.

This is not something I have tried but I have seen seized engines come back to life after soaking in diesel.
 

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You can always do a right-side cleanout. While the cover is off you can tilt the KLR way to the right and let all the oil drain.

The oil level sight is easy to clean with the cover off.

I agree with clearing the oil with oil and filter changes but I won't say to do this because there is always the possibility of a problem. If you decide to do multiple oil and filter changes use inexpensive oil and filter and change it as often as you can afford.

Wondering if water might be trapped in the valve cover area.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the ideas guys, I have gotten the bike hot on a couple of long rides, and have changed the oil after each. If it doesn't clear up in the next few rides I guess I'll have to take the cover off.
A mechanic friend of mine suggested sloshing the base with ATF, I'm just a little concerned about the clutches.
I'll let you all know how it comes out.
 

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OK, spoken like a true roadie, I guess...I'm confused. The window is fogged up? What do you guys mean "dirty". I'm failing to understand how running the engine hot with repeated oil changes is not a viable solution, but I don't think I understand the problem...:ashamed0005:
 

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Wate rin the oil makes it look brown-ish. The oil level window can trap oil that does not circulate easily and could hold a bit of brown-ish oil making you think there is a lot of water in the oil.

Personally I would check to see if there is brown-ish oil in the valve cover area.
 

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The oil level window can trap oil that does not circulate easily and could hold a bit of brown-ish oil making you think there is a lot of water in the oil.
There's the missing piece. I didn't realize anything could get in there. Thanks Tim.
 

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There's the missing piece. I didn't realize anything could get in there. Thanks Tim.
The window is the same size inside as outside, is about .125" deep, has a slot on the inside that allows the oil to pass through so you can view it.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Let me try to clear things up.
When I changed the oil the first time there was a white foam on the inside of the fill cap. It looks like this same white foam is stuck to the inside of the site window.
When I cleaned it out of the cap it had the consistency of luberplate if anyone knows what that is.(lite white grease)
 

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yep. standard mix of oil/water. i see it a lot in outboard lower units.

how is your coolant level? could you have cracked head or something with the sudden cooling? i would think any moisture would be gone by now.

if the coolant is ok, i'd just clean the window and run it. you shouldn't have enough water now to do any harm and any left will soon cook away.
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Coolant is good, bike runs great, temp runs normal, site window is white.
Getting the window clean is the problem, everything else is fine.
Maybe a couple more oil changes.
 
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