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Watt-Man Thermobob vs. MCP Thermal Control System

1990 Views 76 Replies 18 Participants Last post by  SirMarksAllot
Seems like these both do the same thing. Without mentioning Watt-Man's specifically, MCP says in their description "Works much better than similar options". Anyone have any knowledge of any differences between the two?
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he said there's nothing intentional about the raised temp of a thermobob and it's actually a design flaw and that other thermo mods don't work properly because "they were made on machines that don't make heat properly" (whatever the heck that means lol.
If I'm not mistaken he markets his carb kit with his thermostat bypass kit, and says something along the line of "my carb kit fixes fueling which also restores heating bringing the temp up". Paraphrasing/going off my horrible memory but yeah...

I will say, I drank the Kool-Aid and bought his carb kit, because I saw reviews of people going from the KLX kit to the MCP kit and seeing improvements. I saw those claims not just on his FB page where he curates all of his "glowing" reviews, but also from actual people on forums. I will say I am happy with the carb kit, just no personal experience on it vs the KLX needle. It is vastly improved from stock.

I am pretty disappointed with his fuel petcock manual conversion "kit". It's just a a screw with some sealant on it and instructions on how to modify the existing parts of the petcock. For $11 US, really disappointing. I guess shame on me for not looking into it more. I have since bought the kit from 3dcycle parts which is a backplate and gasket for $20. Happier with that, even for nearly double the price.

All this to say that I probably won't buy any other MCP products. When I finally do the thermostat radiator bypass, I'll go with the Thermo-Bob. He actually backs his product up with actual data, which the engineer in me appreciates. And not just claims that are only substantiated by only Facebook comment screenshots...
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Overlooking the claims MCP’s products do work. Is one better than the other is up to an individual to decide. I don’t think anyone is going to buy both Wattman’s and MCP’s products and do a side by side comparison. The results will be basically the same. I would base my final decision on the hit to my wallet to get it in my hands.
MCP actually makes a conversion kit to convert "other" thermostat bypass kit to his way. And he's started to curate reviews that talk about how much better his is than the "others", on his FB page.
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Thanks for the input y'all. It does indeed seem like they do the exact same thing. MCP also uses an ugly blue hose and brass connectors so I think I'll be going with the TB2 as they have gunmetal/hammertone connectors and a black hose to better match the bike and not look like some DIY hardware store parts.
His block is also much less refined than the thermobob block. The MCP is basically a triangle, looks like a middle schooler designed it. I can only imagine this is to reduce cost in machining.
I'll go with the Thermo-Bob. He actually backs his product up with actual data, which the engineer in me appreciates. And not just claims that are only substantiated by only Facebook comment screenshots...
I have to agree with you man. Watt-Man's seems a lot more legit because of the technical write-up he is able to provide for and back up his product. I actually brought this point up with MCP, asking him to provide a technical explanation or just something comparable to Watt-Man's writeup since all he'd done thus far was provide vague and general terms to explain how his works, versus Watt-Man's technical explanation and data. He actually went ahead and broke things down afterwards. Still not technical data but it's better than before. I know this might seem like we're beating a dead horse here but I figured I'd give an update if anyone is curious and put out the info for anyone looking to buy the MCP TCS. I find it interesting that he points out the reason for out-of-round wear being an uneven temperature between the top and bottom of the cylinder rather than the temperature swings as what seems to be the general consensus.

MegaCityPerformance (Facebook) said:
The ONLY valid reasons to be concerned about on the KLR cooling system are:
  1. Temperature gauge swings that are outside of the normal operating range
  2. The temperature differential between the top and the bottom of the cylinder (which could cause uneven wear)
  3. A bottom end that doesn't get to operating temperature.
The reason these issues happen is the stock cooling system lets HOT water out of the head and draws only cold water into the bottom of the cylinder through the water pump, from the radiator.

These are the main reasons to get the MCP Thermal Control System and the ONLY valid reasons to get a bypass mod.

Not all bypasses are alike and only the MCP system addresses all the concerns pointed out above.


The MCP Thermal Control System (MCP TCS), works most noticeably better than other similar mods in extreme heat or cold, transferring more heat between the bottom and top ends in both directions. In extreme heat the MCP TCS cools the bottom end, in extreme cold it warms the bottom end all the while keeping the top end temperature even.

The MCP Thermal Control System recirculates the right amount of coolant to reduce shear points in the water jacket which promotes mixing, therefore reducing hot spots keeping the entire top end the same consistent temperature. This also promotes more accurate gauge readings.

Having the bottom end (and engine oil) at operating temperature makes the transmission shift much smoother.

The MCP Thermal Control System also keeps the radiator cooler at all times compared to similar mods. This means there is more cool water available for engine cooling. This will also make your KLR take longer to start heating up in stop and go traffic



Speedometer Wheel Trip computer Automotive tire Light


The needle anywhere between the white lines is normal. The top of the range is the fan activation temperature, the bottom of the range is thermostat temperature. The KLR has a low capacity cooling system (especially Gen 1), there is a small temperature range on the gauge, this means the needle moves a fair bit which is normal and expected.

The needle position shown in the picture is normal operating temperature for the KLR with the stock 160 degree thermostat and with adequate air movement through the radiator. The needle will be a little higher than pictured if it is hot outside, and a little lower if its cold out (1 needle width). This is where the gauge should run most of the time, exception is when moving slow or with a big tail wind.



The stock cooling system doesn't heat the bottom end to operating temperature in cooler ambient temperatures which allows condensation to collect.

The MCP Thermal Control System (MCP TCS) heats the bottom end to operating temperature, like the top end, when riding in cooler weather which cooks off the moisture not allowing it to collect.

The moisture is pushed out the crankcase breather and is burned off through the motor.
I am curious about his carb kit though. I haven't heard any reliable comparisons between his and the KLX needle aside from the curated reviews on Facebook but I don't consider those trustworthy.
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I am curious about his carb kit though. I haven't heard any reliable comparisons between his and the KLX needle aside from the curated reviews on Facebook but I don't consider those trustworthy.
I’m super happy with the MCP carb kit. I believe @DPelletier has used/is using both. He may have a comparison comment
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From MCP on Facebook........ "isolates the radiator better from the engine keeping the rad cooler, and keeps the WHOLE engine/thermostat temp better including the bottom end. This Preserves Maximum cooling capability of the system, other mods reduce maximum cooling capability.".........
This is nothing but gibberish...This sounds like my brother in-law explaining how an automotive cooling system works. He's an investment manager who is a wizard with financials, but he'd be the guy at the gas station when his Teslas range is low...... :ROFLMAO:
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All I'll say is that yes, I run his MCP jet kit which I found to be smoother than the KLX kit I had previously been using ( We ran both KLR's side by side with one of each). Despite any advertising claims to the contrary, the kit didn't cure male pattern baldness, make the KLR faster than a Hayabusa or make me irresistible to the ladies....at least not that I've noticed.

On the cooling system bypass kits, I've not seen any information that makes me think there is anything out there that is superior to Bill's kit (Watt-Man). I run Bill's TB-2 on both my KLR's.

Dave
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All I'll say is that yes, I run his MCP jet kit which I found to be smoother than the KLX kit I had previously been using ( We ran both KLR's side by side with one of each). Despite any advertising claims to the contrary, the kit didn't cure male pattern baldness, make the KLR faster than a Hayabusa or make me irresistible to the ladies....at least not that I've noticed.

On the cooling system bypass kits, I've not seen any information that makes me think there is anything out there that is superior to Bill's kit (Watt-Man). I run Bill's TB-2 on both my KLR's.

Dave
"Doesn't cure male pattern baldness" love it 😂

I think this is the first comment we're seeing on any forum from someone impartial to either product giving side-by-side feedback between the two. (Trust me, I have looked. But maybe not hard enough)

Much appreciated man. What you're saying seems to support what MCP has on his Facebook page with the screenshots of people saying that the MCP kit is smoother than the KLX kit, as the latter has a sort of flat spot within the rev range. But to hear someone confirm it here actually makes it believable.

This is nothing but gibberish...This sounds like my brother in-law explaining how an automotive cooling system works. He's an investment manager who is a wizard with financials, but he'd be the guy at the gas station when his Teslas range is low...... :ROFLMAO:
Haha. Yeah I don't know. The vagueness of some of the explanations was also an eyebrow-raiser for me too but believe it or not, this was an improvement over what he was saying before.

From all this, it seems like the MCP Carb Kit and the TB2 are the optimal set-up.
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From all this, it seems like the MCP Carb Kit and the TB2 are the optimal set-up.
That’s where I’m at.
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@DPelletier - sorry for dragging you into this.
All I'll say is that yes, I run his MCP jet kit which I found to be smoother than the KLX kit I had previously been using ( We ran both KLR's side by side with one of each).
screenshots of people saying that the MCP kit is smoother than the KLX kit, as the latter has a sort of flat spot within the rev range.
Interesting... as MY bike with KLX kit pulls strong and smooth from idle to red-line
Interesting... as MY bike with KLX kit pulls strong and smooth from idle to red-line
Likely the barometric pressure down under.
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As to MCP needles, . . . HARLEY has lots of models through time using Keihin CV carburetors, quite similar in many ways to KLR CVK40 Keihins. Just wondering; MCP needle ever made a Harley rider's life complete? Why not a Harley model MCP needle? Looks like a potential market out there, to me.

Is MCP an advertising-paying, "vendor," on this website? Just wonderin'.
Is MCP an advertising-paying, "vendor," on this website? Just wonderin'.
No he isn’t although he tried to be. He is not on here in any form, vendor or user, so no need to pay. He seems to be able to make sales worldwide despite people’s prejudices against him.
Why not a Harley model MCP needle? Looks like a potential market out there, to me.
Market could be there, sure. But it makes more sense for the KLR considering the how much we mod and DIY our bikes (IMO).
@DPelletier - sorry for dragging you into this.
No problem at all. :)

Dave
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Interesting... as MY bike with KLX kit pulls strong and smooth from idle to red-line
I had no complaints with my KLX kit either and it is a vast improvement from stock. I tried the MCP kit because of all the claims (many/most of which I found implausible to say the least) and once I did try it, I had to admit it idled better and was smoother than my KLX kits I had been using. I ran one KLR (they are both very similar built 6 months apart) with the KLX and one with the MCP for awhile and while the difference wasn't what I'd call extreme, I did prefer the MCP so I installed one in the other bike. I've tried the Dynojet, KLX, 22 cent mod and MCP.....never tried the JD jet kit. 2 cents,
Dave
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When I finally do the thermostat bypass, I'll go with the Thermo-Bob.
Slip of the 'tongue' I'm sure,
But I would like to point out that both are Radiator By-Passes. The coolant is simply flowing across the backside of the thermostat, so it warms up evenly.

The too cool of coolant by-passes the radiator and flows directly to the coolant pump & back into the engine to be further Warmed, until warm Enough to Need to go Thru the radiator. And this happens in a smooth and steady progression of full warm-up of the entire engine system.
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Slip of the 'tongue' I'm sure,
But I would like to point out that both are Radiator By-Passes. The coolant is simply flowing across the backside of the thermostat, so it warms up evenly.

The too cool of coolant by-passes the radiator and flows directly to the coolant pump & back into the engine to be further Warmed, until warm Enough to Need to go Thru the radiator. And this happens in a smooth and steady progression of full warm-up of the entire engine system.
Yes, the correct term would be radiator bypass. My bad!
I have to agree with you man. Watt-Man's seems a lot more legit because of the technical write-up he is able to provide for and back up his product. I actually brought this point up with MCP, asking him to provide a technical explanation or just something comparable to Watt-Man's writeup since all he'd done thus far was provide vague and general terms to explain how his works, versus Watt-Man's technical explanation and data. He actually went ahead and broke things down afterwards. Still not technical data but it's better than before. I know this might seem like we're beating a dead horse here but I figured I'd give an update if anyone is curious and put out the info for anyone looking to buy the MCP TCS. I find it interesting that he points out the reason for out-of-round wear being an uneven temperature between the top and bottom of the cylinder rather than the temperature swings as what seems to be the general consensus.



I am curious about his carb kit though. I haven't heard any reliable comparisons between his and the KLX needle aside from the curated reviews on Facebook but I don't consider those trustworthy.
That certainly is more words, lol.

I will say, his cab kit seems to be pretty good. Much better than stock IMO. He does have a dyno chart comparing the the MCP and KLX on his FB page, which is better proof than his marketing claims. Though still have to take it with a grain of salt, because obviously he benefits from showing his kit as better.

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