I didn't know he had done this. Great find - thanks!That certainly is more words, lol.
I will say, his cab kit seems to be pretty good. Much better than stock IMO. He does have a dyno chart comparing the the MCP and KLX on his FB page, which is better proof than his marketing claims. Though still have to take it with a grain of salt, because obviously he benefits from showing his kit as better.
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Watt-Man Thermobob vs. MCP Thermal Control System
Seems like these both do the same thing. Without mentioning Watt-Man's specifically, MCP says in their description "Works much better than similar options". Anyone have any knowledge of any differences between the two?
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Looks like the bypass kits are "six of one,,and half a dozen" of the other. I installed the WattMan on my 2010, I don't ride it much, but the temp is much more consistent. And, I don't believe I've ever seen an automotive engine WITHOUT a bypass. Why would you want to put a lite switch on a cooling system? Let it "circulate and percolate",, let the complete system do it's thing. Both systems induce a bypass,, I don't think there is any difference between them, other than the components used.MCP actually makes a conversion kit to convert "other" thermostat bypass kit to his way. And he's started to curate reviews that talk about how much better his is than the "others", on his FB page.
Sadly, the carb kits will go the path of the 8 track tape player, and the Rochester Quadrajet. Fuel injection is rendering the carbs obsolete. Chances are a FI kit may surface for the KLR,, just like the kits most 60's V-8's are using today.
Now there’s a name I haven’t heard in a long time😉😎. That was a great carb, if you knew how to set it up (which I did NOT🤣)the Rochester Quadrajet
One can only hope. That and an ABS kit would be great...In the mean time people will just tell you to buy a gen 3 lolChances are a FI kit may surface for the KLR,, just like the kits most 60's V-8's are using today.
One can only hope. That and an ABS kit would be great...In the mean time people will just tell you to buy a gen 3 lol
I've added efi to some of my older vehicles. Never abs. I've added disc brakes to some customers cars but never even bothered with that on mine . I do have a 66 that has the single hole master cylinder. If you blow a line you lose all brakes . I need to upgrade to a 67 split master on that one but haven't yet. I believe the feds mandated a split master in 67
The gen 3 is my first abs bike. I'm not a fan. It's very sensitive. Locking up on gravel is impossible. For a 100% street bike then maybe it's useful. Idk. Ive ridden for years and never needed it. One can unplug the wheel speed sensor and it's disabled though. Likely the fuse as well.
x2. ABS has no business on a KLR…in my opinion.The gen 3 is my first abs bike. I'm not a fan. It's very sensitive. Locking up on gravel is impossible.
For a 100% street bike then maybe it's useful...One can unplug the wheel speed sensor and it's disabled though. Likely the fuse as well.
You can actually just splice in a switch to disable ABS when off-road then turn it on for on-road. ABS can save you from going down if you happen to accidentally panic break.x2. ABS has no business on a KLR…in my opinion.
I don't understand why anyone of the Gen 3 riders haven't simply installed a switch into the REAR ABS sensor wire to disable Only the Rear ABS for Off-Highway usage?The gen 3 is my first abs bike. I'm not a fan. It's very sensitive. Locking up on gravel is impossible. For a 100% street bike then maybe it's useful. Idk. Ive ridden for years and never needed it. One can unplug the wheel speed sensor and it's disabled though.
I would think that still having Functional Front ABS would be beneficial to the less-experienced KLR or other model riders, on street & dirt.
I think that even I could Appreciate a real dirt bike so equipped! I used to be able to Purposely Nose-Wheelie my KX500 on good dirt, Never dumped it. I haven't tried for quite a few years.
My KLR650 doesn't stand a chance of doing so. But a skidding Front tire on a KLR can dump one over in a heat beat, dirt or asphalt.
I plan to put a toggle inline with the fuse. I was told by the kaw technician that either speed sensor would disable all the abs not one end. Ive not confirmed that but he actually seemed petty knowledgeable (despite my bike being poorly prepped. Lol) if that's the case I may go inline with the front sensor. To disable the rear only, you would have to send the signal from the front sensor to the rear of that's the case. I do know that until both wheel get a reading, your abs light stays on.I don't understand why anyone of the Gen 3 riders haven't simply installed a switch into the REAR ABS sensor wire to disable Only the Rear ABS for Off-Highway usage?
I would think that still having Functional Front ABS would be beneficial to the less-experienced KLR or other model riders, on street & dirt.
I think that even I could Appreciate a real dirt bike so equipped! I used to be able to Purposely Nose-Wheelie my KX500 on good dirt, Never dumped it. I haven't tried for quite a few years.
My KLR650 doesn't stand a chance of doing so. But a skidding Front tire on a KLR can dump one over in a heat beat, dirt or asphalt.
I ride gravel a lot. In a good downhill gravel section the abs does an excellent job of preventing lock up...... lack luster job of stopping. Lol. It doesnt disable at low speed like a car will either.
But again all my other bikes lack abs so other than a buddies goldwing (which I didn't take on gravel) I have no other basis for comparison.
Most of my mechanical experience with ABS is with air brakes and truck hydraulic brakes and a bit of automotive. When the ABS ECU is powered up it does a test of the system by sending a pulse of electricity to the modulator valve solenoids and the pump motor. The ECU is programmed to see a certain load from all the components and when the pulse stops the solenoid coils create a voltage surge as the magnetic field collapses. The ECU also needs to see a certain resistance from the wheel speed sensors. If any of the components fail the startup test the ECU turns on the ABS light and the system is nonfunctional. I would expect that Kawasaki's legal team made sure their ABS has the same functionality.
True of most any ABS vehicle. Any issue in one component nukes the whole system.
This was an exploit with the early Super Tenere's to disable the ABS completely for offroad use -- put up on the center stand and spin up the rear wheel in second gear. Front tire not moving but the rear is, computer thinks there is a fault and disables the entire ABS. Until you key it off and then it's back to square one.
I never lied to myself enough to justify doing it when "off-road". That bike was a monster and I stuck to gravel and fire roads at most.
This was an exploit with the early Super Tenere's to disable the ABS completely for offroad use -- put up on the center stand and spin up the rear wheel in second gear. Front tire not moving but the rear is, computer thinks there is a fault and disables the entire ABS. Until you key it off and then it's back to square one.
I never lied to myself enough to justify doing it when "off-road". That bike was a monster and I stuck to gravel and fire roads at most.
I'm not too sure about that.I plan to put a toggle inline with the fuse. I was told by the kaw technician that either speed sensor would disable all the abs not one end. Ive not confirmed that but he actually seemed petty knowledgeable (despite my bike being poorly prepped. Lol) if that's the case I may go inline with the front sensor. To disable the rear only, you would have to send the signal from the front sensor to the rear of that's the case. I do know that until both wheel get a reading, your abs light stays on.
Couldn't one simply dis-mount the Rear Sensor (after starting & riding 50 feet to engage the system and dis-engage the check light, and leave it running) to confirm whether or not the Front ABS will still 'function' if the rear system happens to 'snag a wire' or 'collect rock damage' to either the Rear sensor or its signal ring, while in motion?
Yeah I know that the ABS light will stay ON (or come back on after a full stop) if the unit doesn't receive a signal from both ends in the first short bit of motion above xx speed.
And it will turn on if either end losses its signal, while in motion. That would be your 'reminder', that you turned OFF the rear signal, while in motion.
I personally think that the system may still be 'capable' of operating the 'fully functional' wheel. But I don't have a local customer to experiment with.
And, don't forget, it's a MAGAZINE not a CLIP.Yes, the correct term would be radiator bypass. My bad!
Further, a RIFLE, not a, "GUN!"And, don't forget, it's a MAGAZINE not a CLIP.
I'll find out for certain today if nothing happens. I traced down the rear sensor plug the other day. It's directly under your butt. Can reach down and get to it. But the tech did say it disabled bothI'm not too sure about that.
Couldn't one simply dis-mount the Rear Sensor (after starting & riding 50 feet to engage the system and dis-engage the check light, and leave it running) to confirm whether or not the Front ABS will still 'function' if the rear system happens to 'snag a wire' or 'collect rock damage' to either the Rear sensor or its signal ring, while in motion?
Yeah I know that the ABS light will stay ON (or come back on after a full stop) if the unit doesn't receive a signal from both ends in the first short bit of motion above xx speed.
And it will turn on if either end losses its signal, while in motion. That would be your 'reminder', that you turned OFF the rear signal, while in motion.
I personally think that the system may still be 'capable' of operating the 'fully functional' wheel. But I don't have a local customer to experiment with.
Savage sold one that actually said clip on the magazine. I used to compete with a couple leo and the highway patrol guys were the worst for correcting. Apparently if you mentioned a "clip" in trooper school you got to wear a hair clip all day. Lol.And, don't forget, it's a MAGAZINE not a CLIP.
I don't worry with it. Pistol/ revolver. Silencer/ suppressor. What difference does it make. When the word is used synonymously for 100 years then when does it become ok? How many people think of a kitty cat or a rooster when they hear the other word for them? Nobody corrects anyone for that.
I'm not too sure about that.
Couldn't one simply dis-mount the Rear Sensor (after starting & riding 50 feet to engage the system and dis-engage the check light, and leave it running) to confirm whether or not the Front ABS will still 'function' if the rear system happens to 'snag a wire' or 'collect rock damage' to either the Rear sensor or its signal ring, while in motion?
Yeah I know that the ABS light will stay ON (or come back on after a full stop) if the unit doesn't receive a signal from both ends in the first short bit of motion above xx speed.
And it will turn on if either end losses its signal, while in motion. That would be your 'reminder', that you turned OFF the rear signal, while in motion.
I personally think that the system may still be 'capable' of operating the 'fully functional' wheel. But I don't have a local customer to experiment with.
Nope. I verified today. Unplug the rear sensor under your right butt cheek and you have no abs at all.
It also doesn't come back online when you plug it back up. Until the next key cycle it remains off.
So I may do a momentary switch or just a momentary button. That way abs is back the next time you start up.
Your approach makes sense.I don't worry with it. Pistol/ revolver. Silencer/ suppressor. What difference does it make. When the word is used synonymously for 100 years then when does it become ok? How many people think of a kitty cat or a rooster when they hear the other word for them? Nobody corrects anyone for that.
Although Shakespeare said, "A rose by any other name . . .," a subtle difference exists between a synonym (different names for identical items), and for misnomers/errors (wrong words for naming items, affecting clarity in meaning). For example, militarily, a rifle is a personal (individually-operated) weapon, a gun is a crew-served (operated by more than one person) weapon. Militarily, clips and magazines remain distinctively different items, M1 rifles use ammunition clips, M14 rifles use magazines. Outside a military context? Then, you have a point, if the intended nomenclature of the term used is understood!
Now, mercifully, I won't go into the difference between a starter solenoid, and a starter relay (the latter on KLRs). Or, carburetor ENRICHERS, and CHOKES (the former on KLRs)!
(Glad you found how to disable ABS when you want to!)
"It's your weapon not a gun!!"
I also found a pic comparing KLX and MCP needle if anyone is curious.
View attachment 42611
Yeah, that's the pic I took when I was replacing the KLX and DJ needles with MCP needles.
Dave
Oh I get it. But the rose still smells just as sweet and such. (Not that I'm into reading and parting and sorrow and all that) Ive been a mechanic for 20+ years as a hobby and recently side job. Ive been in industrial manufacturing for over 20 as a job, mostly in the engineer, tech part but sometimes management. I despise management. And ive also been into shooting sports for 30. Lol.Your approach makes sense.
Although Shakespeare said, "A rose by any other name . . .," a subtle difference exists between a synonym (different names for identical items), and for misnomers/errors (wrong words for naming items, affecting clarity in meaning). For example, militarily, a rifle is a personal (individually-operated) weapon, a gun is a crew-served (operated by more than one person) weapon. Militarily, clips and magazines remain distinctively different items, M1 rifles use ammunition clips, M14 rifles use magazines. Outside a military context? Then, you have a point, if the intended nomenclature of the term used is understood!
Now, mercifully, I won't go into the difference between a starter solenoid, and a starter relay (the latter on KLRs). Or, carburetor ENRICHERS, and CHOKES (the former on KLRs)!
(Glad you found how to disable ABS when you want to!)
But maxim patented the suppressor as "silencer" and Colts patented "pistol" was a revolver. So arguing those (and they are argued at any shoot) is a bit much. And when im shooting and someone mentions their "clip" I don't bother arguing. Every 7 year old playing call of duty knows what they mean so why as adults do we feel the need to jump in. Idk. Not saying I wont if the person has gotten on my bad side and I'm feeling sarcastic or facetious. I own an m1 garand (and a few carbine but those are mag fed), Nagant, and have had a few sks... ive even had the displeasure of loading mags FROM clips. Lol
And yeah enricher, choke confuse people. But try to explain why a sequential fuel injected bike (like a victory) has a "choke" to people. Lol. Its really a fast idle but even polaris referred to it as a choke in their literature. It does nothing but pull at the tps.
I suppose if the manufacturer (polaris) calls the lever a "choke" then it's now a choke regardless of what it does. We now have a doohickey and a thermobob..... so I guess it's up to them. Idk. I'm just glad to see carbs going away from common use. Majority of the junk coming into my shop over the past 20 years has been "carb" related. To most people the "choke" is the lever itself. Regardless of if it pulls a flapper thing to block air or pulls a plunger thing to add fuel. Lol
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