[pdwestman]

I took the old sprocket and placed it over the new one and began to spin one of them and match up the nut holes to see if the teeth match up and they only match up perfectly in 1 specific spot.

PeteK, He did. (I think he did.)

Jutes101,
The KLR front sprockets are stepped on both sides. The THINNEST step faces the Engine. This places the front & rear sprockets into direct line. And helps keep the chain master link from touching the LH Lower sub-frame bolt (Which some people intstall TOO Long of bolt into, and it then causes tick, tick, tick with rider on board).

Next up, the drive chain needs to be LOOSE Enough to lift the lower run up with 1 finger to just touch the rear tip of the rubber underslider of the swing arm. Otherwise when the suspension compresses the chain pulls 'bow-string' tight.

Next, you may be simply hearing the 'ssshhhhhhh' of the very tacky assembly grease on the teeth of the new front sprocket. What brand of sprockets did you purchase? Some are more smoothly manufactured than others.

 

[pdwestman]

... so the top part of the chain may be tighter than the bottom part of the chain. because the rear is placing the chain maybe a millimeter too far for the front sprocket.

So again I'll say, the drive chain must be left Loose Enough (with transmission in neutral) to be able to lift the Bottom run up to just touch the rear tip of the rubber under slider.

When you are on the throttle, there is NO Slack on the top run of the chain, because it is all at the bottom.
When you are on trailing throttle/engine braking, there is No Slack on the bottom run of the chain, because it is all at the top.

If your chain is adjusted TOO SNUGLY, when you set on the bike there will be No Slack on either the Top or the Bottom.
Re-adjust your rear axle/rear sprocket a couple of millimeters forward & try again.

 

[pdwestman]

What should the width be?

Both of the sprockets and the drive chain must be of 520 sizing. When one orders by bike model, its hard to get it wrong.
But a 525 chain would 'walk' back and forth across the sprocket teeth, possibly rubbing on main engine case.

That number (520) stands for Five Eights (5/8) of an inch from rivet to rivet (chain pitch) and Two point Zero Eights (2/8) of an inch wide. A 525 chain would be a 1/16 inch sloppy.

I usually use DID / RK / EK / Renthal / Tsubaki chains. I might try a Sunstar drive chain next time, because I always use Sunstar sprockets.

Eight bolt holes do not divide evenly into 43 teeth.

 

[pdwestman]

I'll guess that your turn signal relay became disconnected. You should have checked for power at the orange power wire to the turn signal switch.

I can lift the 42+ pounds of a full KLR fuel tank off of the bike.

The drive chain needs to be loose enough to lift the lower run up to just touch the rear tip of the rubber underslider.

 

[pdwestman]

I think that I merely hear the 'sticky' chain assembly grease on a brand new sprocket.

DID, RK, EK or Renthal / 520-106L either O-ring or X-ring. I find the O-rings tougher in dirty environments.

I'm glad that a dog or kid didn't run-out in front of you. You must have tougher feet than me. (that wouldn't take much.)