[PeteK]

When did this noise start? When you replaced the chain? The front sprocket may or may not be contributing to the problem, but it’s good practice to replace both sprockets when you replace the chain. The front sprocket, being smaller in diameter and having fewer teeth, takes more of a beating than the rear.

 

[PeteK]

Paul, I may be mistaken, but I think that part of his posting was discussing his rear sprocket. Let’s see what his next message reveals.

 

[PeteK]

I don’t understand why you can’t get the rear sprocket nuts off if they are “stripped.” Do you mean you rounded off the corners off the nuts, or you stripped the threads? If you rounded off the corners, then try a 6-point socket on them.

I’m in the process of slowly replacing my old 12-point sockets with 6-point sockets for this reason.

 

[PeteK]

If that doesn’t work, I’ve managed to salvage the situation by using a slightly smaller SAE socket than the metric size, tapped on with a hammer so its good and tight. And if that doesn’t work, you can buy socket-style nut extractors that are like a female version of an EZ out. The internal teeth cut down into the nut or bolt head and grip it that way. I bought a set 20 years ago. They have saved me a number of times.

 

[PeteK]

That looks weird. Like one or the other was mis- manufactured. I can see that the one on top is a 43 tooth sprocket. Are you sure the other one also is a 43?

does the noise vary according to wheel speed, or about 3 times wheel speed?

 

[PeteK]

Forget what I wrote previously, from the picture it sort of looked like the teeth were off relative to each other, like you laid a 43 tooth sprocket on top of a 44 tooth sprocket. It doesn’t matter where the bolt holes are relative to the teeth, as long as they are symmetrical and centered. I assume that’s the case.

One other fine point: it’s good engineering practice to pair an even-numbered sprocket with an odd numbered sprocket, or an odd to odd if they aren’t multiples of each other. Why? Because that way, each link of the chain will run over each tooth of the sprocket and any irregularities will tend to wear evenly. If you pair an even to an even, or pair odd multiples, then specific links of the chain will only run over some of the teeth, and not others.

Anyway, it’s a fine point, but I’ll note that Kawasaki chose the stock ratios as 15/43, which assures that even wear, rather than, say 16/46 or 14/40.

 

[PeteK]

Dude, you’re riding barefoot in shorts while trying to troubleshoot a noise that could cause the rear wheel to lock up?? I know it’s Hawaii, but at least put some boots on.

 

[PeteK]

It’s kind of hard to tell from the iPhone recording.

We’ve bounced around on topics but I don’t see anywhere in the messages whether you installed a new front sprocket so, let me ask again, did you install a brand new front sprocket?

 

[PeteK]

Jutes, did changing the front sprocket make any difference in the noise? I tend to agree with Paul, it sounds fairly normal to me in your recording. One other thing to do: put the plastic sprocket cover back on. That will damp the noise somewhat.

 

[PeteK]

Jutes, you need to use the two-lead meter. One probe goes into the socket for the orange wire and one goes to ground. You’re checking for 12 volts. Do you have a Clymer manual with the color-coded wiring diagram? If not, get one. You might also find a wiring diagram online somewhere.

Late edit: just noticed that you did say you have the Clymer manual.