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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
The six point socket worked!!! Only one nut wasn’t able to take the six point so I got a new pair of sharp teethed pliers and some wd40 and it came off no problems. Thanks so much I wasn’t aware of the six sided sockets. That’s why the 12 sided socket set was so cheap haha.
Well I got my new sprocket in and I’ll show you guys what I was talking about with the teeth not lining up on certain holes
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
There’s a pic of both sprockets old and new on top of each either with the teeth lined up. Which only happens on 1 of the 8 sequences of the threads. The next photo is gonna be just spinning the top sprocket one hole over
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
The last photo was spun two holes over and it’s slightly off not exactly on point with the teeth.. and as I keep spinning it from 1 hole to thread it still doesn’t match up, until I spin it a full revolution to the point where the teeth match up perfectly... this is what I thought may be the problem in making the noise. Thanks for reading guys. Once I get these new nuts in I’ll be changing up the location of which the sprocket sits to see if that’s what is making the noise
 

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That doesn't matter at all. It makes no difference. It is not a problem.

If it is making noise it is an incorrect chain line, a mismatched chain and sprocket, a worn sprocket, too tight a chain, or some other alignment or lubrication issue. Or, it is a normal noise. Since we can't hear it without a video, we can't comment on that.

The chain and both sprockets should be '520' items.

Have you replaced all three items with new items and are they all marked as '520'?
 

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KLRs: 2013, 2005, 1998; 2017 HD Electraglide Ultra
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That looks weird. Like one or the other was mis- manufactured. I can see that the one on top is a 43 tooth sprocket. Are you sure the other one also is a 43?

does the noise vary according to wheel speed, or about 3 times wheel speed?
 

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The last photo was spun two holes over and it’s slightly off not exactly on point with the teeth.. and as I keep spinning it from 1 hole to thread it still doesn’t match up, until I spin it a full revolution to the point where the teeth match up perfectly... this is what I thought may be the problem in making the noise. Thanks for reading guys. Once I get these new nuts in I’ll be changing up the location of which the sprocket sits to see if that’s what is making the noise
Matters not as to whether the teeth and bolt holes are the same between old and new sprockets since You are not needing to time front and rear like in a set of cam gears.
 

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What should the width be?
Both of the sprockets and the drive chain must be of 520 sizing. When one orders by bike model, its hard to get it wrong.
But a 525 chain would 'walk' back and forth across the sprocket teeth, possibly rubbing on main engine case.

That number (520) stands for Five Eights (5/8) of an inch from rivet to rivet (chain pitch) and Two point Zero Eights (2/8) of an inch wide. A 525 chain would be a 1/16 inch sloppy.

I usually use DID / RK / EK / Renthal / Tsubaki chains. I might try a Sunstar drive chain next time, because I always use Sunstar sprockets.

Eight bolt holes do not divide evenly into 43 teeth.
 

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Forget what I wrote previously, from the picture it sort of looked like the teeth were off relative to each other, like you laid a 43 tooth sprocket on top of a 44 tooth sprocket. It doesn’t matter where the bolt holes are relative to the teeth, as long as they are symmetrical and centered. I assume that’s the case.

One other fine point: it’s good engineering practice to pair an even-numbered sprocket with an odd numbered sprocket, or an odd to odd if they aren’t multiples of each other. Why? Because that way, each link of the chain will run over each tooth of the sprocket and any irregularities will tend to wear evenly. If you pair an even to an even, or pair odd multiples, then specific links of the chain will only run over some of the teeth, and not others.

Anyway, it’s a fine point, but I’ll note that Kawasaki chose the stock ratios as 15/43, which assures that even wear, rather than, say 16/46 or 14/40.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Hey guys sorry I haven’t posted a vid yet. I will soon... I’ve been getting used to the sound now haha she still rides amazing. A new issue has set in tho... none of my blinkers work. Before, one side was clicking super fast and I changed the relay, fixed the problem. Then I left my bike in the sun while working on the rear wheel and sprockets for multiple days, also the key was inserted in the hole but not turned. I’m in Hawaii so the sun is very powerful. I thought it burn out the turn signal switch. The head light brights work and the horn works on the left handle control “assy” not sure if it’s called that. The rear brake light works. I dissected the assy and looked on the three soldered wires that connect to the turn signal and one looks funky, kind of like a dent or nick on it. I ordered a new assy for 65 bucks to see if that does the job... I have a voltage reader but there’s 9 copper wire connections so I don’t know where to test the electrical flow to see if it’s getting power. If it isn’t the assy, I’ll be stuck trying to figure out what it is...... had a rough time siphoning gas out of the tank to see the wire connections, got a mouthful of gas and little bit sprayed on my nose, burnt my lip and created a scab for a fee days.. hahah anyone ever done that?
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Also thanks for clarifying that it isn’t the holes not lining up on the rear sprocket. Riding a 16/43... really noticing that second gear can take way higher speeds compared to the 15 tooth front. I think I may try a different chain to see if that’s the issue... do you guys unscrew the chain adjuster, I forget the exact amount like two revolutions or 1 1/2. Then tighten it back to spec?
 

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I'll guess that your turn signal relay became disconnected. You should have checked for power at the orange power wire to the turn signal switch.

I can lift the 42+ pounds of a full KLR fuel tank off of the bike.

The drive chain needs to be loose enough to lift the lower run up to just touch the rear tip of the rubber underslider.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
How do you test the orange wire? I have the red and black needle voltage mete. Could you use just single tipped voltage meter on one wire?. I don’t know the names

At the time I had thought the little pipe towards the screws that hold the gas tank down was going to seep out gas... realized later it was an air valve.

I under stand the chain needs to be loose enough to touch the rubber chain guard on the swing arm. My chain guard is super worn in from the last chain and rider. Possible corporate to the weird sound?
 

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'12 Candy Lime KLR
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How do you test the orange wire? I have the red and black needle voltage mete. Could you use just single tipped voltage meter on one wire?. I don’t know the names

At the time I had thought the little pipe towards the screws that hold the gas tank down was going to seep out gas... realized later it was an air valve.

I under stand the chain needs to be loose enough to touch the rubber chain guard on the swing arm. My chain guard is super worn in from the last chain and rider. Possible corporate to the weird sound?
Some pictures and or video would be a big help...
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Haha just went for a quick spin to put up a vid. I’m aware most crashes happen a mile away from the house but I enjoy cruzing barefoot occasionally... I usually wear shoes, ear plugs, and always eye protection.
 
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