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Hey Ya'll

Im getting the 2001 KLR prepped to move to the farm!!! Lately I have had difficulty with the gel battery I put in it last year. I took out the original water cooled battery and swapped in a quick fix 12v gel battery. I didn't use the tether charger on the battery until it started sounding like it needed a charge. ::t1204:

I took it out and charged it fully last night, today the battery read only holding 9 V. What do you suggest for a new battery?

I did jump start the bike one time with I don't know how many volts :t1204: and the charger blew up:t1202: Could I have ruined the alternator. If so how do I check?

The bike has about 10K. I would like to get a spark new plug in? Any suggestions.

Also I have been hearing about ethanol causing problems with the needle jet. Would it be ok to use an ethanol fuel conditioner (lucas product)

Any help with be great as I hit the road asap with the KLR and YZ 250 on my new (old) yacht club trailer.:desismiley1:
 

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It would be hard to imagine that you did any damage to the charging system with one jumpstart. I use an AGM battery, they seem to last three or four years if kept charged. I use the stock plug. I like the iridium plugs in my 4 wheeler. I haven't had a problem with ethanol and my needle jet, I do think it creates problems with the by-pass valve circuit. To check the alternator, I would use a fully charged battery, start the bike and put a load on the battery (lights, turnsignals, whatever). Check the voltage across the terminals, it should be somewhere north of 13 volts.
Regards
 

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Fundamentally, your battery circuit has NOTHING WHATSOEVER TO DO WITH YOUR IGNITION.

The CDI (capacitive discharge ignition) of Generation 1 KLR650's is powered by ALTERNATING CURRENT from the exciter coil of the alternator.

As to your electrical power generation (alternator), rectification (rectifier-regulator) and storage (battery), another matter.
 

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"Fundamentally, your battery circuit has NOTHING WHATSOEVER TO DO WITH YOUR IGNITION."

Not exactly, if your battery and voltage regulator don't work properly your field (stationary) coils won't create a sufficient magnitic field and your alternator output will be lower voltage. I say bring back the magneto! My old Yamaha 250 used a "bad" battery for years (could have used a big capacitor).
 

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"Fundamentally, your battery circuit has NOTHING WHATSOEVER TO DO WITH YOUR IGNITION."

Not exactly, if your battery and voltage regulator don't work properly your field (stationary) coils won't create a sufficient magnitic field and your alternator output will be lower voltage. I say bring back the magneto! My old Yamaha 250 used a "bad" battery for years (could have used a big capacitor).
Looks to me as though the EXCITER COIL exists as an independent stator winding, uninvolved with the voltage regulator/rectifier.

Further, I was of the impression the KLR650 uses a PERMANENT MAGNET alternator, with "field coils" of no consequence to the EXCITER COIL.

Perhaps I misinterpreted the wiring diagram.

http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.bigcee.com/faq/KLR650-color-wiring-diagram.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html&h=2400&w=3000&sz=559&tbnid=n2YR-OYbgOHpZM:&tbnh=90&tbnw=113&prev=/search?q=klr+650+wiring+diagram&tbm=isch&tbo=u&zoom=1&q=klr+650+wiring+diagram&docid=xI1f9eo51F6kHM&sa=X&ei=YXnRTsG9DcTa0QGXvfEW&ved=0CDUQ9QEwAA&dur=172

Could you point out the field coils affecting the exciter coil?

You posted, "I say bring back the magneto!"

Your wish may have come true; Kawasaki refers to the alternator as, "MAGNETO" in the wiring diagram.



You'll notice, the RED wire runs directly from the MAGNETO to the CDI, and does not connect with any RECTIFIER/REGULATOR; the YELLOW wires run to the RECTIFIER/REGULATOR (not shown on this segment of the wiring diagram). Thus, I concluded the ignition circuit is separate from the rectification and storage (battery) circuit. If "field coils" involving rectification and regulation are involved, I stand corrected.
 

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Yup, I should have done my research. When you described the alternator I bit on retro-memories. Didn't realized there was an alternating current magneto, but you wouldn't need a rectifier if you didn't have alternating current.
Thanks for the tap inbounds.
 

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Sorry, I don't have any info on your electrical problem.
I currently use the Iridium plug in my bike and I like it. I believe the only difference in a stock plug and an iridium plug is the life expectancy of the plug (I think).
I currently use Sta-bil ethanol treatment in my tank every fill up and have encounted no problems. From the little research I have done on this matter is that biggest thing with ethanol is that it attracts water, the ethanol treatments help turn that water into alcohol thus creating something the bike can burn.
Hope this helps some.
 
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