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Who will be first to do something to their KLR in 2019??
 

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I removed the rear suspension linkages and swing arm and lubed all the bearings.
There was very little grease on them when it came apart.

Doohicky is next on the list.

Terry
 

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I removed the rear suspension linkages and swing arm and lubed all the bearings.
There was very little grease on them when it came apart.

Doohicky is next on the list.

Terry
Ya that sounds about right. I think the KLR factory bought one pail of grease in 1987 and have been sparsely using it ever since.
 

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I replaced a broken gear shift lever that decided to break off when I left the Valley of the Giants in the middle of the Oregon Coast Range. Also built and installed a tool tube, and sewed a sock to go in there. Last not least, I mounted a KLR-style (as in $50 cheap) BT motorcycle headset in my helmet - Love it!
 

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My ZZR1200 had zerks in the rear suspension links. Why none with the KLR?
The KLR is/was less expensive.

Your ZZR1200 was still missing 3 grease zerks. L & R swingarm bearings and rearward link point!

Wattman / Thermo-Bob website has a Very Good KLR grease zerk install write-up!
 

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The KLR is/was less expensive.

Your ZZR1200 was still missing 3 grease zerks. L & R swingarm bearings and rearward link point!

Wattman / Thermo-Bob website has a Very Good KLR grease zerk install write-up!
So they omit the fittings, but bearings not sealed?
If so, how often would you recommend I tear it all apart to grease? Mine is less than 1 yr old and has been sitting all winter so I doubt it needs it already, but parts neglected cost $$.
 

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So they omit the fittings, but bearings not sealed?
If so, how often would you recommend I tear it all apart to grease? Mine is less than 1 yr old and has been sitting all winter so I doubt it needs it already, but parts neglected cost $$.
The KLR suspension seals are very high quality in my opinion. If one installs zerks, one must also drill vents.
Read here, http://www.watt-man.com/uploads/ZerkInstallation.pdf

The 2006 and newer Thailand manufactured models barely got half a smear of grease in the steering head bearings & the rear suspension bearings.
But there are other issues which one might also attend to on all years of KLR's, before it becomes a problem.
They didn't grease the assembly bolts & then mistakenly allowed water entry into the largest, toughest one!
Read here, https://www.souperdoo.com/stuff that i think about/why-won-t-that-damn-pivot-bolt-come-out-or-two-very-important-zerk-fittings
 

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So they omit the fittings, but bearings not sealed?
If so, how often would you recommend I tear it all apart to grease? Mine is less than 1 yr old and has been sitting all winter so I doubt it needs it already, but parts neglected cost $$.
Have you ever washed the bike? Crossed a stream? Ridden in the rain? Live in a humid area? If you have then water has gotten into the frame where the pivot bolt passes through. There is no way for it to get out, and rust never sleeps.

The bearings are probably fine as of now, but I believe that the manual recommends lubrication every 15K miles. That is too infrequent for at least the first interval, given that they were inadequately lubed at the factory.
 
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Lubing the rear suspension is not a difficult or daunting task. I have a beam that holds up the roof in my garage I made a couple brackets and screwed them to the beam.
I used a couple ratchet straps too lift the rear of the bike off the ground. An hour and a half and a couple cold beers and the job was done. I live in a damp climate so
I will probably re-lube it every two years.
 

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Tom,
I don't know how exacly CDI circuits are designed, but to create time delays requires some element that provides a time base. A crystal oscillator with counters and digital logic could be a very precise solution, but I doubt they did that. Instead it is likely based on some timer IC's or mono-flops which use some RC elements for timing. I was only mentioning it as a possible explanation for the fairly large tolerance they gave in the time axis.
Martin
 

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have a beam that holds up the roof in my garage…
This is such an excellent idea! I've been wondering how to do work involving removing wheel removal, and this is something I hadn't considered, but I believe I have such a beam as well. Thank you!

Any chance of pics? I'm curious how you tied it up…
 

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I started to de-farkle it. I'm excited to ride it without all the extra stuff in stock trim.

Removed:
Micatech Rear rack
Happy-Trails Luggage Racks
Corbin seat
PD-Nerf Bars and Engine Guard w/ Highway pegs

Next to remove:
Bash Plate
Pivot Pegz
KLR Dash and clean up wiring
 

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My KLR.

In 2019 I picked up my purchase of a 2nd hand Camo 2016 KLR650 and I plan to ride it off road all round the Gold Coast Hinterland and the Northern Parts of NSW.
After swapping over the rego to me, today, I plan to take it out to my farm which is at Tyalgum, northern NSW and practice riding technique.
Having never ridden in dirt much I am looking forward to my new experiences.

Obviously the KLR isn't like my other bikes, KTM Superduke & Ducati Hypermotard, having the acceleration all over the park but the last owner has performed the Air Box Mod & re jetted the Carby, doing the Harley Mod too.
I've ordered an aftermarket Pipe to get rid of the Cat so hopefully that will help and I ordered the Moskomoto Reckless 80L, Nomad Tank Bag and 4 x 1L fuel bottles for some adventures in the pipeline.

The other things I plan to do are fabricate a bash plate and fabricate a centre stand.

Any thoughts or ideas would be appreciated, thanks in advance.
 

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This is such an excellent idea! I've been wondering how to do work involving removing wheel removal, and this is something I hadn't considered, but I believe I have such a beam as well. Thank you!

Any chance of pics? I'm curious how you tied it up…
I used two big wood screws to attach two drilled plates to the beam.


I used a fabric strap wrapped around the handlebars to lift the bike. The strap wont damage the finish.


To lift the rear I used two lifting straps on each side of the rack.

WARNING! If you use ratchet straps when you release them they drop very fast. I use two straps so I don't drop the bike when I release the first strap.

Terry
 

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Yesterday I removed and cleaned the battery and connections. Re greased the terminals with dielectric grease and was disappointed to see Kawasaki had used a cheap Chinese battery for the last year of production. At least it was an AGM type.
Then cleaned and re-oiled the air filter, cleaned the inside of the air box and put some grease around the edge where the foam contacts the box. As soon as it warms up here in Michigan I'll turn the water on to the spigot and clean the chain. Then all that will be left is to put summer air in the tires and ride her.
 

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I replaced my front fork seals and changed the fork oil. I'd (foolishly) reused the old seals when performing the Cogent Dynamics upgrade last year, so, of course, they started weeping. A surprising amount of swarth in the old oil. Didn't expect that, as I'd thoroughly cleaned the internals, and only have about 3k miles since. Also lubed my cables (I'd forgotten what a PITA it is to lube the throttle cables from the top), and greased the barrels and lever pivots. After a quick check of tire pressures, lights, and fluid levels, I went for my first ride of the season. Yahoo! Now I've made it snow again :-(.
 

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This week I changed the rear tube that I blew on my final ride in 2018 before the first polar vortex hit MN. Snow's almost gone, but still pretty cool out at mid 30's for a high.

Well, to be fully transparent, I removed the wheel, but then I dropped it at the local shop to wrangle rubber while I was at work, before I slapped it back on last night.
 
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