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I put in new fork seals again and ordered new front brake pads as the ones on it now are drenched with fork oil.
 

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Rebuild petcock fuel valve

I sat down at the coffee table and rebuilt my OEM petcock fuel valve, using the rebuild kit from Eagle Mike. The kit comes with new seals and a new diaphragm, so it has everything you really need. Threading the one side of the diaphragm over the baseplate requires some digital dexterity, but it's pretty straightforward and only takes about 15 minutes.
 

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I'll bite on this while the paint is drying! My KLR has been sidelined for 2 years. I've been going ape this past week. Finally solved the no-start w/backfire demon using shock & awe tactics over every system and safety switches. Sprung for a new battery once I could reliably start it. Fixed the broken turn signals that were hanging down with a innovative heater hose/clamp hack that I will never post pictures of. Changed the potentially fuel contaminated oil (best not to reveal brand, weight or anything, as these topics are worse than discussing BBQ). It used exactly 2.5 liters, just like it says on the case. Changed the coolant (the 15 year old Kawasaki juice was an attractive blue). Ordered a key blank off eBay and vowed to the moon & stars to get a copy made of my single key because the locking fuel cap is eventually going to break it. The surfaces of the plastics had broken down and become a pink horror show, so I painted them a hotter red. It is a little sad because the results are nastier than any car I've done, but I'll cover it with brewery stickers. Going to check chain tension now, but it is getting hot & humid here in Virginia. Renew the registration and make a date with the inspection man and I'll be in the game! - Scott
 

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Well...I hate to monopolize this sticky thread, but I'm going to have to post again! I did all those great things and more that I detailed in my last post. Temp is 90 degrees here in Bumpass. Tools were baking in the sun. Hot. Decided that I would roll bike into the tight garage to screw on the left cover. I was amazed that I found all of them after the bike being wide open for so long. The last screw (looking back it was a bit long, but surely it wouldn't conflict with anything. Getting tired now. Bike parked were I could barely see. Screwed it home and POW!. I pinched & mashed the main positive battery cable against the frame! Don't do this...

Best I could do was tape it up. Covers are finally on. I did reroute the cable some, but there is only so far it can be steered. I did find a shorter screw for that hole. I am clocking out for the day. - Scott
 

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After lessons learned from riding the MABDR with Donkey I added JNS Lowering Foot Pegs mounts, Tusk Billet pegs, cleaned the air filter, rebuild the rear brake master cylinder and ordered braided brake lines. Added some oil too. Yesterday I straightened the handle bars a bit as well. General cleaning to get 1000 miles worth of dirt and dust off of it as well.
 

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Finished the repaint and polishing of the plastics, new meters, '09 header pipe, replaced brake lines and front rotor. Put on an '04 seat. Taken a year of round-to-its, mostly due to day job, finishing an MS degree and family demands. Danged first whirled problems ...

Went for the Orange poser (KTM-LR?) 'cause I like the look but I'm a cheap bhastage.







Has the EM 685 kit, KLX needle w/ 142 main and 40 pilot, Uni filter w/ L-cutout air box. Forks have the Ricor Intiminators, rear is oem with EM 1" Raising Links. Good for occasional commuter duty, chasing down sportbikes in the foothills and the spraying gravel on fire roads. Hooligan antics are exacerbated with 14x43 gearing, so have stock ratios for now.
 

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My fuel cap was a concern for me because I think the vent clogged on me once killing the bike, and I killed the battery trying to restart the machine (I thought I would be riding enough to charge a lame battery). Today, I blew air through the tank vent tube, but decided to gut the valve out of the cap itself. In yesterday's hot sun, I could hear the cap trying to vent mucho pressure. I disassembled it and pried the little valve parts right into the trash can. There are also 5 small springs that help the cap seal seat well and I only dropped some of them on the floor once. Luckily I was in the kitchen (wife ran off 16 years ago & sweetheart has her own house) and not in the gravel driveway...
 

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Drained the oil and coolant yesterday. Did the Doo yesterday evening and then the thermo-bob today. Refilled the oil and coolant (I'm in a hot climate so I added a bit more distilled water to dilute the coolant more than 50% plus added some wetter water to the mix). Still working on paint...need to drain the fuel tank to prep it for paint and will probably tear the fuel petcock apart again while the tank is off the bike. I rebuilt it a year and a half ago to fix a leak but it's hard to turn...by hard to turn I mean I need pliers to turn it. Not good when you run out of gas and can't move it over to reserve. Still have to bleed the brakes (before I reinstall the freshly painted plastics).
 

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Zen-like maintenance...

Every 15-16K I throw on a new chain and sprockets (15t & 43t), and yesterday was the big day. Getting the lock nut off is always kind of a pain, and it was as greasy and messy as it could be, but otherwise not too bad and everything was buttoned up in a couple of hours. While I was so greasy, I did an oil change too.

I really hope that takes care of it for a while, as the working on bike/riding bike ratio is getting a bit out of whack and Summer Solstice is almost here!
 

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I use an electric engraver to inscribe, "EM Doo & Torsion Spring" on the beveled area of the LH case, directly above the Doo Locking Bolt.

It is then visible for eternity.
 

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I installed the KLX needle and jet kit from Eagle Mike. That tired me out struggling with getting the carb back in the spigots. The plastic choke cable fitting is a P.I.A. as well. Since I was filthy and annoyed I decided to do the drill through subframe mod. That was an adventure as well but it's finished. I'm sick of wrenching on it so tomorrow I ride.
 

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I put on new Shinko tires front and rear. 700 on front ,705 on rear. The old ones were way worn out, the last ride out I rode carefully and still sliding around a lot on the gravel roads. Teaches you throttle control.
Now if it quits raining I can go 'wear the new' off of them.
 

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Replaced the doohickey on my 2006 Gen 1; this is the first doo I've done.

Bike is at 20K miles, and to my untrained eye things looked really good in there. Chain, guides, teeth, and rubbers looked great, spring looked great, plenty of use left in the adjuster. I had originally suspected a PO had done the doo (thermoBob had been done...) but the lever is a welded unit. Not trying to say replacement is not needed; just adding a data point. I did change everything out and upgraded to a torsion spring.

Best references for me (outside of this forum) were superdoo videos and marknet page. Only hiccups incurred were breaking the drill bit (admittedly due to not paying attention) and a bit of starter drag. Removed outer cover, counted washers and pieces, but no obvious issue spotted by me. Reassembled and all is well.
 

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Just finished fitting a Touratech mount for my Garmin and while I had the fairing removed, wired an electronic flasher can and fitted LED flush mount blinkers on the fairing, the original rubber extensions were cracked and broken.
 

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Swingarm and lever maintenance on Fathers Day. Lever was a tight fit until I loosened the rear engine mount. 12k miles since the last one - all looked ok, some pitting on the lever pivot bolt




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Swingarm and lever maintenance on Fathers Day. Lever was a tight fit until I loosened the rear engine mount. 12k miles since the last one - all looked ok, some pitting on the lever pivot bolt




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
PLUG those 2 Stoopid holes in the backside of the lower pivot mounting pipes to keep the water out!
 

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I just clean the tube with brake cleaner & put a blob of RTV silicone on them. Or you can thread tap for 5mm screws & Loc-tite.
 

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I plugged mine with silicone. A smear of grease on the bolt will help the next time you want to remove it.
 
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