What did you do to your KLR today? (2021)
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Yes, exactly. Reflective stickers with the DoubleTake name on them. They came in the box with the mirrors. It would be easy enough to replace them with any other reflective stickers or tape.
* Added More Rear Lighting for Safety *
I added two 5” LED lighting strips for more rear end visibility for both running and brake lights
to increase primarily night time safety.
![28310]()
Drilled two 5/16” holes and inserted rubber cable grommets.
Mounted the light strips with the supplied 3M Red Super Tape. (You only get one shot with this stuff)
(warm the tape and fender first with the ☀ for 20 mins or a heat gun on low)
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Removed the inner fender and peeled back the red factory harness cover to the tail light.
Soldered running, brake, and ground wires.
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Waterproof taped the connections.
Replaced factory harness cover and secured with a tie wrap.
Reinstalled inner fender.
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Install complete
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Daytime Brake Lighting / Running Lighting
![28317]()
Nightime Brake Lighting.
I added two 5” LED lighting strips for more rear end visibility for both running and brake lights
to increase primarily night time safety.
Drilled two 5/16” holes and inserted rubber cable grommets.
Mounted the light strips with the supplied 3M Red Super Tape. (You only get one shot with this stuff)
(warm the tape and fender first with the ☀ for 20 mins or a heat gun on low)
Removed the inner fender and peeled back the red factory harness cover to the tail light.
Soldered running, brake, and ground wires.
Waterproof taped the connections.
Replaced factory harness cover and secured with a tie wrap.
Reinstalled inner fender.
Install complete
Daytime Brake Lighting / Running Lighting
Nightime Brake Lighting.
Not "to" my KLR, but "for" it.
Bought a lift from Harbor Freight. List price $129 ("hmm, my home built wood stand is good enough"), on sale at $99 ("hmm, looks a lot more stable and safer than the wood lift and I have a lot of projects planned for the winter"), to $80 with a coupon ("Sold!).
![28324]()
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The old wood lift:
![28326]()
Bought a lift from Harbor Freight. List price $129 ("hmm, my home built wood stand is good enough"), on sale at $99 ("hmm, looks a lot more stable and safer than the wood lift and I have a lot of projects planned for the winter"), to $80 with a coupon ("Sold!).
The old wood lift:
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10,046 Posts
@schlim, they have either changed the design a bit or changed vendors. I see that there is some sort of roll-stop thing going on, perhaps, with those two knobs. The locking bar stops are a bit different, too.
It still looks like they have the cast-iron wheels. If you plan on using it primarily in the garage, you might want to consider new wheels. It takes some drilling out of the rivets on the casters, but it isn't too hard, nor is it really expensive. The results are quite pleasing.
I shopped at Caster Connection. The price has gone up about a buck a wheel in the last several years, but they are still a decent price.
![28327]()
I can take pictures and provide more detail if you like.
It still looks like they have the cast-iron wheels. If you plan on using it primarily in the garage, you might want to consider new wheels. It takes some drilling out of the rivets on the casters, but it isn't too hard, nor is it really expensive. The results are quite pleasing.
I shopped at Caster Connection. The price has gone up about a buck a wheel in the last several years, but they are still a decent price.
I can take pictures and provide more detail if you like.
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47 Posts
I learned a valuable lesson today. After trying to figure out how to get both bulbs to work on the low beam, I took it apart and discovered (thanks to this forum) they aren’t supposed to!!
I upgraded the bulbs while at it!!
The two knobs are indeed a roll-stop mechanism. See below.
The wheels are metal. Please send more pictures and more details on different wheels. I don't want to mar the garage floor.
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10,046 Posts
I had wanted to change the wheels just to quiet the thing down when rolling it around, but when I had the floor epoxied it accelerated my plans.
Tomorrow I will be digging into the shed to get my top box out, so I'll be passing the jack on the way in. Pictures to follow!
Tomorrow I will be digging into the shed to get my top box out, so I'll be passing the jack on the way in. Pictures to follow!
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10,046 Posts
If I remember what I did, I removed the existing wheels to figure out what I needed to do and what wheels I'd need to buy.
First I drilled out the rivet in the caster and removed the wheel. I seem to remember that I decided to fit 3/8" bolts as axles, so ordered 5/16" wheels and drilled them to fit the bolts. At any rate, remove the existing wheels to figure out what it is you ought to order. You could also consider a complete caster with a built-in brake.
Here's what mine wound up looking like:
![28330]()
![28331]()
First I drilled out the rivet in the caster and removed the wheel. I seem to remember that I decided to fit 3/8" bolts as axles, so ordered 5/16" wheels and drilled them to fit the bolts. At any rate, remove the existing wheels to figure out what it is you ought to order. You could also consider a complete caster with a built-in brake.
Here's what mine wound up looking like:
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100 Posts
Lubed the chain and oiled the air filter.
Pullled out my old squeaker OEM horn and put a Hi/Lo set of 2 horns from Hella. ($11 Amazon) Both fit back into the same location as the OEM horn with their own brackets. Just had to solder on jumpers for the extra horn connections. 108db
![28423]()
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