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Being a former mech. I should have known better. We never did that.
I agree.
When a shop is doing it for a customer they can not afford to do it a second time for 'Free' because of weepy gaskets.
So always new gaskets in-spite of the extra labor time to clean surfaces & the expense of the gaskets. And yes the customer has to pay for that extra time.
Sometimes some gaskets can be a real PITA! The paper gaskets on Z & KZ valve covers come to my mind.

Reusing gaskets on our own bikes (but avoid using RTV sealant on them) or a carefree buddies bike in our own garage is acceptable if we occasionally wash our bikes.
 

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Haven’t needed to pull the valve cover on the KLR yet but it’s coming soon for its first valve shim check. I’ll check around here first whether or not that reseals well without RTV.
The oem KLR re-usable rubber valve cover gasket re-seals perfectly on both upper & lower surfaces with Zero (0) RTV silicone useage, even at the cam tunnel eye balls. One should clean Off the little bit of RTV that K used around those eyeballs, from both the aluminum & the rubber ribs.

I got about 25 years & 65,000 miles out of my original.
 

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How big are you feet?

You might be a LOT better off installing a set of JNS Down & Back footrest mounting brackets.

Too many aftermarket wide footrests are actually Taller, as well as wider on both front & back sides. The Moose Racing 1/2" rearward off-set pegs are still taller than the oem pegs.
 

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It was a good thing I decided to change the pegs today. The left peg bolts were loose enough to turn by hand!
Had anyone been paid to perform Break-In Maintenance? If so, you might inquire about a refund.

Most people over-look most of that REALLY important part of that maintenance list, partly because it requires bodywork & fuel tank removal.
Check everything you can get your hands. It pays off in the long run. And you oughtta' re-check 'em all whenever you un-cover 'em.
 
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Replaced the switches and the USB charger on my lower dash.
If your volt meter is 'always on' it will dis-charge the battery! Or is it switched?
 

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In my case, the frame brackets had the threads stripped at some point in the past, and a PO drilled them out and retapped for M8 bolts.
8mm is the oem standard size. You probably meant to say they were enlarged to 10mm bolts.
 

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I did the big one today took me all of 7 minutes or so, put a new oiled air filter in it, the one that was in it from previous owner was a bit dirty so I’m glad I did it.
I truly hope that you did NOT use the K&N air filter oil you mentioned earlier!! (I tried to warn you did you not read it?)
K&N oil is for Cotton Gauze air filters only.
NOT for use on foam air filters & especially extremely coarse foam filters like the Uni-Filter. It will drain out of foam filters and then dust will pass thru the dry pores. Destroying Your Engine.
 

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They don't care, they sell oil.
Whether its the correct oil for the correct application is not of their concern. It for the consumer to research and confirm proper useage.
I wouldn't use this in a KLR either, Motor Oil | Full Synthetic | K&N
 

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Isn’t engine oil one of the oem recommendations.?
For the fine pored OEM foam air filter, it is.
I actually prefer the easier clean-out of straight grade SAE40 engine oil from the fine pored OEM foam air filters.
 

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Just noticed this open hole on the right side of the engine.
Looks like you are probably seeing the Spark Plug Pocket water drain hole, under the thermostat housing.

Yes it needs to be open. I always try to back-flush it when I wash the bike with garden hose. If the pocket won't drain, I insert a wire & wiggle it around.
 

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It was easy to adjust the shifter, but the brake pedal doesn’t seem adjustable ?
Sure it is.
Loosen the 12mm nut. Remove the cotter pin & clevis pin from the pedal. Turn the clevis RH to adjust pedal tip down, test fitting clevis pin a couple times. Reinstall cotter pin, retighten nut. Re-Adjust Brake Light Switch.
 
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The side panels and rear fender are primed in gray, but are green plastic underneath. Does anyone have a good way of getting the primer off the poly plastic?
I don't. But this could get interesting.

What are you gonna' do to the plastics after paint removal?

Maybe ought to start a separate thread, PeteK?
 

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The radiator on my 2006 sprung a leak. I caused the issue by mistakingly installing the radiator guard behind that tab on the bottom.
The Gen 1 guard is supposed to be behind that lower 'hook'. But there are also supposed to be several rubber, 'U' shaped pieces glued to the perimeter of the guard to protect from vibration rub-thru.
Split 3/16" fuel hose could work.

I also use a 'blob' of RTV silicone on the tiny little upper mounting pin of the guard to the radiator hole to keep them from wearing off/out.
 

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Any tricks to get the rear brake lever lower?
Well, I recon that you could remove the clevis and grind a couple of threads off of the tip of the adjuster shaft to allow more adjustment. :)
This is assuming that the threaded shank is currently nearly touching the rear of the pedal.
 

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I also ordered the o ring and "fuel seal" from the local powersports shop:
I really hope that you ordered TWO (2) o-rings for the underside of the hinge of the 2 filler cap phillips head screws?
 

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You might gain enough footrest HEIGHT (3/8") & (just slightly more forward 3/8-1/2") with a set of standard Moose racing or IMS cleated steel pegs to improve your pedal action/ankle flexion.

Tom Schmitz/Souperdoo site may have pics of 2 or 3 slightly different KLR brake pedals.
 

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Super Bright…..like the way they look.
In the daytime or facing them 'at night'? Maybe you ought to check?

I'm hating on-coming LED lighting, more & more, nearly every evening!!
 

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I'll suggest that if the supplied washer with the TUSK drain plug is attached to the TUSK magnet you had best re-use your original Aluminum drain plug GASKET!!!!!!!
Maybe the knuckle-heads have corrected their ERROR? Maybe not yet?
 
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