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When I bought the '05 just over a year ago, the PO had connected a hose between the red tube and the blue tube on the gas tank. After researching this a bit, I think this means the tank had no way of venting. So per MarkNet's instructions, I capped the red and vented the blue. I also ordered the o ring and "fuel seal" from the local powersports shop:
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But I couldn't bring myself to shell out a hundred bucks for a new gas cap, so I ordered a knockoff from china on ebay. Hopefully all of this will stop gas from coming out of the cap after I fill it up everytime, or when she decides to take a nap.

I also installed some rear bars, after getting longer bolts from Ace.
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Not bad considering it was 105 degrees today!
 

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I really hope that you ordered TWO (2) o-rings for the underside of the hinge of the 2 filler cap phillips head screws?
Hi @pdwestman, doh! I was thinking that o-ring was related to the venting, not the mounting of the cap, and did not notice the parts listing called out two. It looks like the chinese cap comes with these, so now I have an extra one haha. Thanks for pointing that out.

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Installed the new gas cap and "oil seal" and happy to report that after filling the tank to the point where the pump shut off, no leaks! Not sure what will happen next time she takes a nap, but a significant improvement. The replacement seems well constructed and pretty much an exact match of the original.

Old cap
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New cap and seal (but, it has a separate key, now I need two). This was really easy and only about 30 bucks. But the seal was back ordered so took a few weeks to get delivered.
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Also, snapped a pic of the modified tank venting arrangement
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And swapped out the right rear blinker that was severely cracked after a drop, re-using the plastic tube over the wires. Another quick install. (A keen observer will note I forgot to remove the existing nut before I started lol)
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And, I rerouted the clutch cable which unpinched it a bit - was a little sticky.
 

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The Doohickey!

After ordering the full kit from Eagle Mike well over a year ago, I finally got around to attempting the install today. Here is a quick summary of resources I found helpful and some of the issues I encountered:
  • Souperdoo's youtube series on the balancer adjustment lever replacement. A great set of videos that walk you through the entire process, with a focus on "gotchas" to avoid. Thanks @Tom Schmitz . One tip mentioned here but not in other videos Ive seen is moving the rotor to TDC before doing a doohickey adjustment (Tom gave @pdwestman credit I believe for the suggestion), and I later realized I could have saved myself some grief if I had done what Marknet suggested: "The woodruff key / flywheel re-installation goes much easier if you remember to rotate the shaft so that the keyway is facing up AFTER the flywheel pops loose and BEFORE you actually pull the flywheel off - use the flywheel to have it pointing north. That way gravity won't interfere with reassembly."
  • Eagle Mikes youtube series on the doohickey. Great videos and I really appreciated the extra explanations on how related components worked, especially the one way clutch gear that is connected to the starter. BUT, as Im typing this I realized that I forgot to follow all of @eaglemike 's instructions and failed to double check that clucth gear still moves. I guess Ill found out soon enough when I got to start it tomorrow!
  • RMC's youtube video on the doohickey. I used this primary to double check the torque settings

Some things that slowed me down prior to even starting:
  • Tom mentioned "moly disulfide" grease for the limiter shaft, and it turns out there is a bit of confusion on the interwebs about what this stuff actually is when I went to try and get some lol. I finally ended up getting a $5 tube of Engine Assembly Lube from a local auto parts store.
  • I needed a bigger torque wrench to put the rotor bolt back on. Ended up getting one that goes to 150 ft-lbs for $25 from HF. Seems crazy cheap, but my midrange HF one seems to work ok (but not as smooth as my Tekton 1/4" unit). Since the spec on a Gen1 rotor is 130 ft-lbs I felt ok being just outside the upper 10% of the range.
  • Taking off the HT skid plate and then figuring out how best to place my lift just on the frame, as well as cleaning all the muck around the front sprocket - first time I had that cover off (oops! should do this more often)
Some things that slowed me down during the install:
  • Loosing the woodruff key! I dutifully tapped it on the side with a punch and wedged it in, but before I put the clutchgear on, so when I went to take they key out in order to make it easier to slip the gear on, it was wedged and then went flying after first making a "ping" sound like it hit the engine. I searched high and low for that thing, including putting a magnet down the hole leading to the bowels of the engine, and the longer I searched, the more I was convincid Id have to split to case or something to get it back out! But low and behold, it was wedged in the lift stand, i almost kissed it when i found it.
  • Figuring out what the proper torque specs should be - next time ill document all this stuff before I start lol
  • Snapping the 3/8" socket extension to my 19mm socket when trying to get the rotor bolt out. In the end, I put my new 1/2" torque wrench "in reverse" and essentially used it like a breaker bar - probably not the smartest move but it was either that or another trip to the hardware store.
  • Finding these "gouges" on the inside of the oneway clutch:
    • (but after looking at several for sale on ebay, they all seem to have these)
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Final Result: my doohickey itself was fine, but the spring was broken and there was evidence of metal on metal contact:

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So I am glad I did it!

Oh, and I drilled the hole more like 4:30 then 5:30..the bit walked a bit - oh well! still seems tight:
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Anyhow, I want to thank the folks on this forum for providing such a wealth of information and support.

Happy Labor Day!
 

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