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The Gen 1 guard is supposed to be behind that lower 'hook'. But there are also supposed to be several rubber, 'U' shaped pieces glued to the perimeter of the guard to protect from vibration rub-thru.
Split 3/16" fuel hose could work.

I also use a 'blob' of RTV silicone on the tiny little upper mounting pin of the guard to the radiator hole to keep them from wearing off/out.
Thank you! The guard on my bike is missing all those rubber pieces. I'll do what you suggested.
 

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As a new owner I have heaps in the pipeline. Ordered a few items but will take ages to make its way from the USA to OZ. In the meantime, this weekend will be rear suspension lengthening links and a general tidy up of the previous owners shoddy work. Need the indicator adaptors to arrive to fit the new DRL/LED indicators for the front and combination Brake/Indicators for the rear.
 

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2002 KLR650
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217 Posts
Road up to the Chattahoochee Forest Fish Hatchery and through fire trails at the Ranger station. Had a wonderful ride, no issues aside from the speedo cable coming loose, losing the tightening nut and pinching itself between the hub. Met a great gentleman, Richard, once I got out of the forest and saw a 2001 pulled over at a campground/restaurant. Had great conversation and his mostly stock, aside from doohickey, klr had the original clutch and the bike had 107k on it.

Stopped in the mountains, strung up my hammock and played some solitaire on my phone while next to the creek. All in all, six hours out today, 54 mpg with the new klx carb set up. I’m happy! Don’t really take many photos when I’m out but heres a couple.

GPS app sends my location to a server every one minute, so its missing all of the fun twisties.

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As a new owner I have heaps in the pipeline. Ordered a few items but will take ages to make its way from the USA to OZ. In the meantime, this weekend will be rear suspension lengthening links and a general tidy up of the previous owners shoddy work. Need the indicator adaptors to arrive to fit the new DRL/LED indicators for the front and combination Brake/Indicators for the rear.
So did the rear suspension links. Took all of ten minutes. took longer to get the bike onto the stand and get it stabilised. Now the side stand actually works.
applied a bit of grease whilst I had the bolts out. Looks like my bits from the USA are finally making it across the water.
 

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2013 KLR 650/692, 2017 HD Electraglide Ultra
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1,454 Posts
I replaced the footpeg brackets with the JNS lowering brackets on my 1998. Then I lowered the shift lever one spline and adjusted the brake pedal to its lower limit, but it still feels a bit high for my tastes. Any tricks to get the rear brake lever lower?
 

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Any tricks to get the rear brake lever lower?
Well, I recon that you could remove the clevis and grind a couple of threads off of the tip of the adjuster shaft to allow more adjustment. :)
This is assuming that the threaded shank is currently nearly touching the rear of the pedal.
 

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When I bought the '05 just over a year ago, the PO had connected a hose between the red tube and the blue tube on the gas tank. After researching this a bit, I think this means the tank had no way of venting. So per MarkNet's instructions, I capped the red and vented the blue. I also ordered the o ring and "fuel seal" from the local powersports shop:
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But I couldn't bring myself to shell out a hundred bucks for a new gas cap, so I ordered a knockoff from china on ebay. Hopefully all of this will stop gas from coming out of the cap after I fill it up everytime, or when she decides to take a nap.

I also installed some rear bars, after getting longer bolts from Ace.
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Not bad considering it was 105 degrees today!
 

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2013 KLR 650/692, 2017 HD Electraglide Ultra
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Paul, here are a couple pictures of how the rear brake adjusting nuts and clevis look. I’m pretty much out of adjustment, but would like to drop the brake pedal another inch or so. If there aren’t any simple tricks, then I’ll live with it until I get irritated enough to modify it.

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Paul, here’s a picture of how the rear brake adjusting nuts and Clovis look. I’m pretty much out of adjustment, but would like to drop the brake pedal another inch or so. If there aren’t any simple tricks, then I’ll live with it until I get up irritated enough to modify it.
 

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You might gain enough footrest HEIGHT (3/8") & (just slightly more forward 3/8-1/2") with a set of standard Moose racing or IMS cleated steel pegs to improve your pedal action/ankle flexion.

Tom Schmitz/Souperdoo site may have pics of 2 or 3 slightly different KLR brake pedals.
 

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@PeteK, a Gen 2 with lowered pegs is helped by the installation of a Gen 1 brake pedal. There's no pedal-swapping help for the Gen 1 with lowered pegs.

If sticking with the set-up as it is, trimming the end off of the push rod so that the clevis can be moved up a bit might be helpful. If you have a few turns left, going upward, with the upper jam nut but the end of the pushrod is almost touching the short end of the brake lever, then trimming the end of the pushrod will buy you some adjustment. Since it is at the short end of the lever, just a bit of movement buys a lot at the other end. Visions of Archimedes moving the world and all that...
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More extreme, the large radius of the lever can be given two radial cuts and bent. Then go down to St. Anthony's and light 5 candles to Our Blessed Lady of Weld Strength and Integrity, come home and TIG the cuts up. The tip of the pedal will be lower but will be pitched forward. That, of course, can be remedied with more cuts, candles, and welding.

The levers are cheap as chips, try it. What could go wrong?

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I really hope that you ordered TWO (2) o-rings for the underside of the hinge of the 2 filler cap phillips head screws?
Hi @pdwestman, doh! I was thinking that o-ring was related to the venting, not the mounting of the cap, and did not notice the parts listing called out two. It looks like the chinese cap comes with these, so now I have an extra one haha. Thanks for pointing that out.

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2013 KLR 650/692, 2017 HD Electraglide Ultra
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Tom, thanks. The situation is that the adjustment nut is up against the rubber boot on the bottom of the rear brake master cylinder. I suppose I could trim that back a bit and get another turn or two, which as you noted would have 5x the lever effect for moving planets in their orbits. I’m not averse to cutting some thin pie slices and rewelding, but I don’t have a TIG (and I ain’t that good at welding aluminum with a MIG) so that will require a trip to a welding shop.

It’s usable, just not optimum, so, I’ll live with it for awhile and cogitate some more.
 

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Long time, no visit. Just haven’t had to do much on my ‘08. I finally got around to replacing the front MEFO Sport MFE 99; 7,200 US miles on it, and it probably should have been done a while ago. Replaced it with a Shinko E700; we’ll see how that works out.
The rear MEFO still has a few K miles to go. While I liked the feel of the front, it wore funny, with the center block cupping, and still wearing faster than the shoulders, even running 40 PSI. The one before it did the same thing. Since I’m not a wild off-roader, anything that does OK on gravel roads and isn’t too squirrelly on wet pavement will suit me. That’s it.

Conrad

2008 Kawasaki KLR 650
1996 BMW R1100RT
1994 BMW R1100RSA
1975 Yamaha XS650B
 

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2002 KLR650
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217 Posts
Tank vest for the vented IMS came back in stock, ordered it and got some IFAK pouches as well as a bottle pouch and a couple others.

Over the past 800 miles of mixed riding (forest trails and mostly 60mph cruising and moderate stop and go) with the KLX installed (142 main, 42 pilot, second washer, 1.75 turns out) I have averaged 55.6 mpg.

Today I also installed the crank oil restriction mod that Paul came up with. I have burned apprx 18oz during the last 1600 miles. Not much, but still am curious how this mod will affect things. Installed in the oil cap for the time being, will change out banjos later on.


Hand Wood Finger Gas Thumb


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