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211 Posts
Well actually Friday not today, but for the Barbie Bike, I rebuilt the petcock, installed Progressive springs, replaced fork seals and fork oil (Mobil-1 ATF). Also cleaned and relubed the air filter.

I went with just the springs as she's mostly a road only bike that occasionally sees gravel/fire roads, but not jeep trails or single-track.

Took a quick sprint up to Donner Pass, but smoke from the wild fires was pretty thick. :(
 

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'12 Candy Lime KLR
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316 Posts
Also changed the oil. Very happy that the magnetic drain plug picked up almost no metal in the 2,100 miles since the last oil change. Whohoo!

30635
 

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290 Posts
I bought a drain plug like the one pictured above. I put it in a safe place for
my next oil change. Two oil changes later I still haven't found it.
 

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The Doohickey!

After ordering the full kit from Eagle Mike well over a year ago, I finally got around to attempting the install today. Here is a quick summary of resources I found helpful and some of the issues I encountered:
  • Souperdoo's youtube series on the balancer adjustment lever replacement. A great set of videos that walk you through the entire process, with a focus on "gotchas" to avoid. Thanks @Tom Schmitz . One tip mentioned here but not in other videos Ive seen is moving the rotor to TDC before doing a doohickey adjustment (Tom gave @pdwestman credit I believe for the suggestion), and I later realized I could have saved myself some grief if I had done what Marknet suggested: "The woodruff key / flywheel re-installation goes much easier if you remember to rotate the shaft so that the keyway is facing up AFTER the flywheel pops loose and BEFORE you actually pull the flywheel off - use the flywheel to have it pointing north. That way gravity won't interfere with reassembly."
  • Eagle Mikes youtube series on the doohickey. Great videos and I really appreciated the extra explanations on how related components worked, especially the one way clutch gear that is connected to the starter. BUT, as Im typing this I realized that I forgot to follow all of @eaglemike 's instructions and failed to double check that clucth gear still moves. I guess Ill found out soon enough when I got to start it tomorrow!
  • RMC's youtube video on the doohickey. I used this primary to double check the torque settings

Some things that slowed me down prior to even starting:
  • Tom mentioned "moly disulfide" grease for the limiter shaft, and it turns out there is a bit of confusion on the interwebs about what this stuff actually is when I went to try and get some lol. I finally ended up getting a $5 tube of Engine Assembly Lube from a local auto parts store.
  • I needed a bigger torque wrench to put the rotor bolt back on. Ended up getting one that goes to 150 ft-lbs for $25 from HF. Seems crazy cheap, but my midrange HF one seems to work ok (but not as smooth as my Tekton 1/4" unit). Since the spec on a Gen1 rotor is 130 ft-lbs I felt ok being just outside the upper 10% of the range.
  • Taking off the HT skid plate and then figuring out how best to place my lift just on the frame, as well as cleaning all the muck around the front sprocket - first time I had that cover off (oops! should do this more often)
Some things that slowed me down during the install:
  • Loosing the woodruff key! I dutifully tapped it on the side with a punch and wedged it in, but before I put the clutchgear on, so when I went to take they key out in order to make it easier to slip the gear on, it was wedged and then went flying after first making a "ping" sound like it hit the engine. I searched high and low for that thing, including putting a magnet down the hole leading to the bowels of the engine, and the longer I searched, the more I was convincid Id have to split to case or something to get it back out! But low and behold, it was wedged in the lift stand, i almost kissed it when i found it.
  • Figuring out what the proper torque specs should be - next time ill document all this stuff before I start lol
  • Snapping the 3/8" socket extension to my 19mm socket when trying to get the rotor bolt out. In the end, I put my new 1/2" torque wrench "in reverse" and essentially used it like a breaker bar - probably not the smartest move but it was either that or another trip to the hardware store.
  • Finding these "gouges" on the inside of the oneway clutch:
    • (but after looking at several for sale on ebay, they all seem to have these)
      30687

Final Result: my doohickey itself was fine, but the spring was broken and there was evidence of metal on metal contact:

30684


30685


So I am glad I did it!

Oh, and I drilled the hole more like 4:30 then 5:30..the bit walked a bit - oh well! still seems tight:
30686


30688


Anyhow, I want to thank the folks on this forum for providing such a wealth of information and support.

Happy Labor Day!
 

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Removed the plastic hand guards ( bat wings ) on my 2015 model just because I think it looks better without them . Maybe some day I will but some metal bark busters on it . Maybe not .
 

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2013 KLR 650/692, 2017 HD Electraglide Ultra
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I removed the original Gen 1 seat from my 1998 bike and sold it, then put on the late Gen2 seat I had on the shelf. It feels good to clear some stuff out of the shop.
 

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2022 KLR 650 Adventure Non-ABS
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12 Posts
I drilled some holes in the windshield mount to adjust the windshield up another inch or so.
Musical instrument accessory Bicycle part Hood Grey Rim
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Vehicle Automotive exterior Bumper

Piano Motor vehicle Wood Automotive exterior Automotive tire

Even though I've been riding with it already in the upper position, I found, for me, it still wasn't quite tall enough. Now the wind just barely hits the top of my helmet when riding.

I also rode 107 miles today to complete my 600 mile break in. I will be changing the oil for full synthetic and putting in a tusk low profile magnetic drain plug.
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Sports equipment Font Vehicle

Automotive tire Sports equipment Vehicle Motor vehicle Bicycle handlebar
 

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I'll suggest that if the supplied washer with the TUSK drain plug is attached to the TUSK magnet you had best re-use your original Aluminum drain plug GASKET!!!!!!!
Maybe the knuckle-heads have corrected their ERROR? Maybe not yet?
 

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2013 KLR 650/692, 2017 HD Electraglide Ultra
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Be careful about using synthetic oil. Many here have experienced clutch slipping in wet clutches (not just KLRs) after switching to synthetic. Follow Kawi’s oil recommendations. The good news is, if you do switch to synthetic and your clutch starts slipping, switching back to 100% dead dino juice restores correct clutch operation.
 

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2022 KLR 650 Adventure Non-ABS
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12 Posts
I'll suggest that if the supplied washer with the TUSK drain plug is attached to the TUSK magnet you had best re-use your original Aluminum drain plug GASKET!!!!!!!
Maybe the knuckle-heads have corrected their ERROR? Maybe not yet?
I did not notice the washer sticking to the magnet, but I will keep an eye on it to make sure it doesn't leak.

Be careful about using synthetic oil. Many here have experienced clutch slipping in wet clutches (not just KLRs) after switching to synthetic. Follow Kawi’s oil recommendations. The good news is, if you do switch to synthetic and your clutch starts slipping, switching back to 100% dead dino juice restores correct clutch operation.
Good to know. I am using Kawi oil.
 

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Received my Dynojet kit today. Will be fitting it this weekend with a new slide. I have no idea what’s in the carb at the moment but at least I will after the weekend.
 

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I did the valve adjustment pokey, musically -
You take the fat shim out, you put the thin shim in.
You adjust the cam chain tension and you check the valves again.
You put on all that plastic and turn the ignition on,
And pray that it starts again!

In this case, all seems good so far; plenty of shim left (.245 & .250) and I even managed to recycle a shim and save a couple of dollars!
 
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