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The Doohickey!

After ordering the full kit from Eagle Mike well over a year ago, I finally got around to attempting the install today. Here is a quick summary of resources I found helpful and some of the issues I encountered:
  • Souperdoo's youtube series on the balancer adjustment lever replacement. A great set of videos that walk you through the entire process, with a focus on "gotchas" to avoid. Thanks @Tom Schmitz . One tip mentioned here but not in other videos Ive seen is moving the rotor to TDC before doing a doohickey adjustment (Tom gave @pdwestman credit I believe for the suggestion), and I later realized I could have saved myself some grief if I had done what Marknet suggested: "The woodruff key / flywheel re-installation goes much easier if you remember to rotate the shaft so that the keyway is facing up AFTER the flywheel pops loose and BEFORE you actually pull the flywheel off - use the flywheel to have it pointing north. That way gravity won't interfere with reassembly."
  • Eagle Mikes youtube series on the doohickey. Great videos and I really appreciated the extra explanations on how related components worked, especially the one way clutch gear that is connected to the starter. BUT, as Im typing this I realized that I forgot to follow all of @eaglemike 's instructions and failed to double check that clucth gear still moves. I guess Ill found out soon enough when I got to start it tomorrow!
  • RMC's youtube video on the doohickey. I used this primary to double check the torque settings

Some things that slowed me down prior to even starting:
  • Tom mentioned "moly disulfide" grease for the limiter shaft, and it turns out there is a bit of confusion on the interwebs about what this stuff actually is when I went to try and get some lol. I finally ended up getting a $5 tube of Engine Assembly Lube from a local auto parts store.
  • I needed a bigger torque wrench to put the rotor bolt back on. Ended up getting one that goes to 150 ft-lbs for $25 from HF. Seems crazy cheap, but my midrange HF one seems to work ok (but not as smooth as my Tekton 1/4" unit). Since the spec on a Gen1 rotor is 130 ft-lbs I felt ok being just outside the upper 10% of the range.
  • Taking off the HT skid plate and then figuring out how best to place my lift just on the frame, as well as cleaning all the muck around the front sprocket - first time I had that cover off (oops! should do this more often)
Some things that slowed me down during the install:
  • Loosing the woodruff key! I dutifully tapped it on the side with a punch and wedged it in, but before I put the clutchgear on, so when I went to take they key out in order to make it easier to slip the gear on, it was wedged and then went flying after first making a "ping" sound like it hit the engine. I searched high and low for that thing, including putting a magnet down the hole leading to the bowels of the engine, and the longer I searched, the more I was convincid Id have to split to case or something to get it back out! But low and behold, it was wedged in the lift stand, i almost kissed it when i found it.
  • Figuring out what the proper torque specs should be - next time ill document all this stuff before I start lol
  • Snapping the 3/8" socket extension to my 19mm socket when trying to get the rotor bolt out. In the end, I put my new 1/2" torque wrench "in reverse" and essentially used it like a breaker bar - probably not the smartest move but it was either that or another trip to the hardware store.
  • Finding these "gouges" on the inside of the oneway clutch:
    • (but after looking at several for sale on ebay, they all seem to have these)
      30687

Final Result: my doohickey itself was fine, but the spring was broken and there was evidence of metal on metal contact:

30684


30685


So I am glad I did it!

Oh, and I drilled the hole more like 4:30 then 5:30..the bit walked a bit - oh well! still seems tight:
30686


30688


Anyhow, I want to thank the folks on this forum for providing such a wealth of information and support.

Happy Labor Day!
 

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2013 KLR 650/692, 2017 HD Electraglide Ultra
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I removed the original Gen 1 seat from my 1998 bike and sold it, then put on the late Gen2 seat I had on the shelf. It feels good to clear some stuff out of the shop.
 

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2022 KLR 650 Adventure Non-ABS
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27 Posts
I drilled some holes in the windshield mount to adjust the windshield up another inch or so.
Musical instrument accessory Bicycle part Hood Grey Rim
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Vehicle Automotive exterior Bumper

Piano Motor vehicle Wood Automotive exterior Automotive tire

Even though I've been riding with it already in the upper position, I found, for me, it still wasn't quite tall enough. Now the wind just barely hits the top of my helmet when riding.

I also rode 107 miles today to complete my 600 mile break in. I will be changing the oil for full synthetic and putting in a tusk low profile magnetic drain plug.
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Sports equipment Font Vehicle

Automotive tire Sports equipment Vehicle Motor vehicle Bicycle handlebar
 

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I'll suggest that if the supplied washer with the TUSK drain plug is attached to the TUSK magnet you had best re-use your original Aluminum drain plug GASKET!!!!!!!
Maybe the knuckle-heads have corrected their ERROR? Maybe not yet?
 

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2013 KLR 650/692, 2017 HD Electraglide Ultra
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Be careful about using synthetic oil. Many here have experienced clutch slipping in wet clutches (not just KLRs) after switching to synthetic. Follow Kawi’s oil recommendations. The good news is, if you do switch to synthetic and your clutch starts slipping, switching back to 100% dead dino juice restores correct clutch operation.
 

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2022 KLR 650 Adventure Non-ABS
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27 Posts
I'll suggest that if the supplied washer with the TUSK drain plug is attached to the TUSK magnet you had best re-use your original Aluminum drain plug GASKET!!!!!!!
Maybe the knuckle-heads have corrected their ERROR? Maybe not yet?
I did not notice the washer sticking to the magnet, but I will keep an eye on it to make sure it doesn't leak.

Be careful about using synthetic oil. Many here have experienced clutch slipping in wet clutches (not just KLRs) after switching to synthetic. Follow Kawi’s oil recommendations. The good news is, if you do switch to synthetic and your clutch starts slipping, switching back to 100% dead dino juice restores correct clutch operation.
Good to know. I am using Kawi oil.
 

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I did the valve adjustment pokey, musically -
You take the fat shim out, you put the thin shim in.
You adjust the cam chain tension and you check the valves again.
You put on all that plastic and turn the ignition on,
And pray that it starts again!

In this case, all seems good so far; plenty of shim left (.245 & .250) and I even managed to recycle a shim and save a couple of dollars!
 

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Fitted the dynojet carb kit. The slide holes had been filled but I fitted a new one anyway. Mixture screw is seized so have no idea how many turns it is in or out as I left it. Had disaster written all over it, if I pursued trying to free it up. Anyone fixed this issue? Any suggestions? I may look for a second hand carb and do a swap at some stage. Be an opportunity to fix the broken plastic nut on the enricher as this was hamfisted at some stage by the PO. Bike runs well, has lost the bit of hesitation it had at around 3000 rpm and starts easier too. Also, was in two minds to remove the coolant connection to the carb but decided to leave it there. Any advice on this also?
 

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Also, was in two minds to remove the coolant connection to the carb but decided to leave it there. Any advice on this also?
Most of us think that the carburetor 'anti-icing' system is/was totally un-necessary at most ridable temps. Your carburetor really doesn't need it for any other reason.

But if you use larger nipples and hose from the thermostat to the coolant pump and make that connection directly, your engine will warm up quicker & temp gauge will be more stable. Have you read of the 'Thermo-Bob'?
 

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05 klr650 & 09 klr650
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Today I got Frankenbike's plastic grafting in place. Trimmed the pieces and got s pretty good fit, then bonded with CA, CA with baking soda, a bit of heat melting, and JB plastic epoxy. Fits very good and the dimensions are correct. View attachment 30784 View attachment 30783
Any more pics or steps in this process?
It looks good.
 
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