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Today I got Frankenbike's plastic grafting in place. Trimmed the pieces and got s pretty good fit, then bonded with CA, CA with baking soda, a bit of heat melting, and JB plastic epoxy. Fits very good and the dimensions are correct.
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Fitted the dynojet carb kit. The slide holes had been filled but I fitted a new one anyway. Mixture screw is seized so have no idea how many turns it is in or out as I left it. Had disaster written all over it, if I pursued trying to free it up. Anyone fixed this issue? Any suggestions? I may look for a second hand carb and do a swap at some stage. Be an opportunity to fix the broken plastic nut on the enricher as this was hamfisted at some stage by the PO. Bike runs well, has lost the bit of hesitation it had at around 3000 rpm and starts easier too. Also, was in two minds to remove the coolant connection to the carb but decided to leave it there. Any advice on this also?
 

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Also, was in two minds to remove the coolant connection to the carb but decided to leave it there. Any advice on this also?
Most of us think that the carburetor 'anti-icing' system is/was totally un-necessary at most ridable temps. Your carburetor really doesn't need it for any other reason.

But if you use larger nipples and hose from the thermostat to the coolant pump and make that connection directly, your engine will warm up quicker & temp gauge will be more stable. Have you read of the 'Thermo-Bob'?
 

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Bike fell over today…broke the handlebar risers. PO must have bought cheap crap. Took a bit of thinking to pick her up again. Ever tried lifting a bike without the handlebars? Had to phone the wife to bring me some tools to refit the bars to the original mounts again. Now I need a right side fairing as it broke on the mount. Ah, the joys of bike ownership.
 

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Any more pics or steps in this process?
It looks good.
Thanks, I appreciate the compliment...
Slow progress as my right hand is in splints following my accident, but I'll be posting updates. Sanding it is tedious, but it's almost ready to start priming. I've been filling a few little rough spots... if you take scrap pieces of fairing and, literally, light them on fire, they melt and start to drip, which works great as a filler. Seems to burn at pretty low temperature...I cut a strip of material so I can hold one end while the other end burns like a candle. Again, hard to do with one hand lol, but I have time
 

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2002 KLR650
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Thanks, I appreciate the compliment...
Slow progress as my right hand is in splints following my accident, but I'll be posting updates. Sanding it is tedious, but it's almost ready to start priming. I've been filling a few little rough spots... if you take scrap pieces of fairing and, literally, light them on fire, they melt and start to drip, which works great as a filler. Seems to burn at pretty low temperature...I cut a strip of material so I can hold one end while the other end burns like a candle. Again, hard to do with one hand lol, but I have time
Acetone applied sparingly with a small brush can also help “blend” in some cracks. I’ve only tried this once so YRMV but it was helpful.
 

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Acetone applied sparingly with a small brush can also help “blend” in some cracks. I’ve only tried this once so YRMV but it was helpful.
Thanks! I've heard of that also but haven't tried it. I've got plenty of spare plastic to experiment with though.
 

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What kind of paints are you using?

I've had fair luck with the Bulldog adhesion promoter and then Rustoleum paints over that.
Currently working on the Gen-1 project side panels and rear fender using Bulldog as the base and then Rustoleum 2x Real Orange Gloss, and will finish with 2x Clear Gloss.
 
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What kind of paints are you using?

I've had fair luck with the Bulldog adhesion promoter and then Rustoleum paints over that.
Currently working on the Gen-1 project side panels and rear fender using Bulldog as the base and then Rustoleum 2x Real Orange Gloss, and will finish with 2x Clear Gloss.
I've been using a Duplicolor sandable filler in red and Rustoleum 2X Ultracover. Probably lots of better things out there but this works and has been very durable. The final color is very close to the red plastics.
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Working on getting body work for another Orange poser ...

Plastic Carmine Transparency Coquelicot
 
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Acetone won’t weld the polyethylene panels on the Gen1’s. Only works on the Gen2 ABS plastic.
 

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I went and did some highway miles with my new 2022 klr. 1,300 miles so far. It really has amazing torque. Cruised just fine at 70mph. Comfortable ride never got sore. I'm a new rider and every day I have a different opinion on what tire I want next. Mostly road driving but love gravel. The D750 are not great on gravel. Trying to decide between shinko 705 and the Bridgestone battlax.
 

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I went and did some highway miles with my new 2022 klr. 1,300 miles so far. It really has amazing torque. Cruised just fine at 70mph. Comfortable ride never got sore. I'm a new rider and every day I have a different opinion on what tire I want next. Mostly road driving but love gravel. The D750 are not great on gravel. Trying to decide between shinko 705 and the Bridgestone battlax.
I've been running 705s the last year, they're good as a 70/30 tire, I would say most adventure conditions except mud. They wear well also. I used Conti Escapes before that and they were similar in performance, though I like the 705 tread patten more and they're a good price. The Battlax has great rubber compound, but I've only used them as a street tire.
 

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Added reflectives to the asphalt camo today.

To each their own, but I would have preferred a Kawk green bike.
 
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