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What did you do to your KLR today? (2021)

37K views 353 replies 58 participants last post by  KlrNips 
#1 ·
It's a new year so we start a new thread. Who is doing something to their KLR today?
 
#6 ·
* Added More Rear Lighting for Safety *
I added two 5” LED lighting strips for more rear end visibility for both running and brake lights
to increase primarily night time safety.
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Drilled two 5/16” holes and inserted rubber cable grommets.
Mounted the light strips with the supplied 3M Red Super Tape. (You only get one shot with this stuff)
(warm the tape and fender first with the ☀ for 20 mins or a heat gun on low)

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Removed the inner fender and peeled back the red factory harness cover to the tail light.
Soldered running, brake, and ground wires.

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Waterproof taped the connections.
Replaced factory harness cover and secured with a tie wrap.
Reinstalled inner fender.

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Install complete

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Daytime Brake Lighting / Running Lighting

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Nightime Brake Lighting.
 
#8 ·
@schlim, they have either changed the design a bit or changed vendors. I see that there is some sort of roll-stop thing going on, perhaps, with those two knobs. The locking bar stops are a bit different, too.

It still looks like they have the cast-iron wheels. If you plan on using it primarily in the garage, you might want to consider new wheels. It takes some drilling out of the rivets on the casters, but it isn't too hard, nor is it really expensive. The results are quite pleasing.

I shopped at Caster Connection. The price has gone up about a buck a wheel in the last several years, but they are still a decent price.

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I can take pictures and provide more detail if you like.
 
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#11 ·
@schlim, they have either changed the design a bit or changed vendors. I see that there is some sort of roll-stop thing going on, perhaps, with those two knobs. The locking bar stops are a bit different, too.

It still looks like they have the cast-iron wheels. If you plan on using it primarily in the garage, you might want to consider new wheels. It takes some drilling out of the rivets on the casters, but it isn't too hard, nor is it really expensive. The results are quite pleasing.

...

I can take pictures and provide more detail if you like.
The two knobs are indeed a roll-stop mechanism. See below.

The wheels are metal. Please send more pictures and more details on different wheels. I don't want to mar the garage floor.

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#12 ·
I had wanted to change the wheels just to quiet the thing down when rolling it around, but when I had the floor epoxied it accelerated my plans.

Tomorrow I will be digging into the shed to get my top box out, so I'll be passing the jack on the way in. Pictures to follow!
 
#13 ·
If I remember what I did, I removed the existing wheels to figure out what I needed to do and what wheels I'd need to buy.

First I drilled out the rivet in the caster and removed the wheel. I seem to remember that I decided to fit 3/8" bolts as axles, so ordered 5/16" wheels and drilled them to fit the bolts. At any rate, remove the existing wheels to figure out what it is you ought to order. You could also consider a complete caster with a built-in brake.

Here's what mine wound up looking like:
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#20 ·
Pullled out my old squeaker OEM horn and put a Hi/Lo set of 2 horns from Hella. ($11 Amazon) Both fit back into the same location as the OEM horn with their own brackets. Just had to solder on jumpers for the extra horn connections. 108db View attachment 28423

How do they work? I want to install a louder horn on mine but am concerned if the existing circuit will reliably power them.
I was thinking a relay with direct power from the battery would be the way to go.
 
#24 ·
That job is really quite easy. Specially if you’ve watched a few YouTube videos. My only advice, use brand new gaskets. I used my old ones (4K mi.) as others did in the videos and they leaked. Got to tear it apart a 2nd time. Being a former mech. I should have known better. We never did that. Good luck!
 
#27 ·
No, I have not. If I did it would be non oil based, like silicone grease but I don’t think I’d ever need too. I stopped using gasket sealers long ago (unless I have a leaky problem child or are forced to use the old one ) because they are often a PITA later to remove and clean up if you have to go back in. As you know many new gaskets already have a sealer applied. Occasionally black RTV is needed to reseal neoprene gaskets. Haven’t needed to pull the valve cover on the KLR yet but it’s coming soon for its first valve shim check. I’ll check around here first whether or not that reseals well without RTV.
 
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