Yes, exactly. Reflective stickers with the DoubleTake name on them. They came in the box with the mirrors. It would be easy enough to replace them with any other reflective stickers or tape.
* Added More Rear Lighting for Safety *
I added two 5” LED lighting strips for more rear end visibility for both running and brake lights
to increase primarily night time safety.
Drilled two 5/16” holes and inserted rubber cable grommets.
Mounted the light strips with the supplied 3M Red Super Tape. (You only get one shot with this stuff)
(warm the tape and fender first with the ☀ for 20 mins or a heat gun on low)
Removed the inner fender and peeled back the red factory harness cover to the tail light.
Soldered running, brake, and ground wires.
Waterproof taped the connections.
Replaced factory harness cover and secured with a tie wrap.
Reinstalled inner fender.
Bought a lift from Harbor Freight. List price $129 ("hmm, my home built wood stand is good enough"), on sale at $99 ("hmm, looks a lot more stable and safer than the wood lift and I have a lot of projects planned for the winter"), to $80 with a coupon ("Sold!).
@schlim, they have either changed the design a bit or changed vendors. I see that there is some sort of roll-stop thing going on, perhaps, with those two knobs. The locking bar stops are a bit different, too.
It still looks like they have the cast-iron wheels. If you plan on using it primarily in the garage, you might want to consider new wheels. It takes some drilling out of the rivets on the casters, but it isn't too hard, nor is it really expensive. The results are quite pleasing.
I shopped at Caster Connection. The price has gone up about a buck a wheel in the last several years, but they are still a decent price.
I can take pictures and provide more detail if you like.
@schlim, they have either changed the design a bit or changed vendors. I see that there is some sort of roll-stop thing going on, perhaps, with those two knobs. The locking bar stops are a bit different, too.
It still looks like they have the cast-iron wheels. If you plan on using it primarily in the garage, you might want to consider new wheels. It takes some drilling out of the rivets on the casters, but it isn't too hard, nor is it really expensive. The results are quite pleasing.
...
I can take pictures and provide more detail if you like.
I learned a valuable lesson today. After trying to figure out how to get both bulbs to work on the low beam, I took it apart and discovered (thanks to this forum) they aren’t supposed to!!
I upgraded the bulbs while at it!!
If I remember what I did, I removed the existing wheels to figure out what I needed to do and what wheels I'd need to buy.
First I drilled out the rivet in the caster and removed the wheel. I seem to remember that I decided to fit 3/8" bolts as axles, so ordered 5/16" wheels and drilled them to fit the bolts. At any rate, remove the existing wheels to figure out what it is you ought to order. You could also consider a complete caster with a built-in brake.
I added progressive fork springs and added 20 weight fork oil...huge difference! But, now that I can go faster over the rough stuff, the rear shock needs an upgrade to keep up!
Pullled out my old squeaker OEM horn and put a Hi/Lo set of 2 horns from Hella. ($11 Amazon) Both fit back into the same location as the OEM horn with their own brackets. Just had to solder on jumpers for the extra horn connections. 108db
Pullled out my old squeaker OEM horn and put a Hi/Lo set of 2 horns from Hella. ($11 Amazon) Both fit back into the same location as the OEM horn with their own brackets. Just had to solder on jumpers for the extra horn connections. 108db
View attachment 28423
How do they work? I want to install a louder horn on mine but am concerned if the existing circuit will reliably power them.
I was thinking a relay with direct power from the battery would be the way to go.
That job is really quite easy. Specially if you’ve watched a few YouTube videos. My only advice, use brand new gaskets. I used my old ones (4K mi.) as others did in the videos and they leaked. Got to tear it apart a 2nd time. Being a former mech. I should have known better. We never did that. Good luck!
No, I have not. If I did it would be non oil based, like silicone grease but I don’t think I’d ever need too. I stopped using gasket sealers long ago (unless I have a leaky problem child or are forced to use the old one ) because they are often a PITA later to remove and clean up if you have to go back in. As you know many new gaskets already have a sealer applied. Occasionally black RTV is needed to reseal neoprene gaskets. Haven’t needed to pull the valve cover on the KLR yet but it’s coming soon for its first valve shim check. I’ll check around here first whether or not that reseals well without RTV.
Bought a new (used) custom seat and put it on my bike today, then rode about 90 miles. It replaces the 2016 seat I have. This was made by Mr. Ed’s Custom Moto in Albany, OR. I like it a lot so far.
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