I hope to keep the shiny (less muddy) side up!
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Oil & Filters ARE CHEAP.... when you compare to Engine Parts, Labor, Down Time, Towing, Lost work.....
Big Rigs will SAMPLE OIL, Change FILTERS, ADD OIL and Wait for Sample results if everything else is "Normal"!
Most "Extended" Oil Changes you find these days (keep in mind it was not long ago it was every 3000mi for Cars) are there because of improvements in OIL Tech over the years. The Oil Filter Tech has not improved MUCH. Food for thought!!!
Sage.... I'm not! Some claim opinionated, they don't know what they are talking about!
Willie
You…with an opinion😮🤯. 🤣🤣🤣Oil & Filters ARE CHEAP.... when you compare to Engine Parts, Labor, Down Time, Towing, Lost work.....
Big Rigs will SAMPLE OIL, Change FILTERS, ADD OIL and Wait for Sample results if everything else is "Normal"!
Most "Extended" Oil Changes you find these days (keep in mind it was not long ago it was every 3000mi for Cars) are there because of improvements in OIL Tech over the years. The Oil Filter Tech has not improved MUCH. Food for thought!!!
Sage.... I'm not! Some claim opinionated, they don't know what they are talking about!
Willie
I’ll take your info under advisement😉
Do you stand your bike Vertical & remove the LH plastic caps to rotate the crankshaft to BDC to allow the oil filter cavity to drain the 6-8 ounces of old oil from the filter cavity?
Maybe that much residual old oil is why some people complain their new oil darkens so quickly?
I'm running for cover.
No - I stand it up vertically and usually tip it back and forth a few times to drain as much old oil as I can, but I recognize the fact that I'm not clearing out all the old oil and I am not surprised when it gets very dark, very quickly. I'd never thought of rotating the crankshaft to drain the last dregs, but I may do that next time I forsake the oil filter change.
FWIW, the oil filter that I removed (around 9 K miles) looked good; no visible damage, no glitter, and still has the oil filter bypass tube (valve).
I will now. I wondered why that happened👍🏼Do you stand your bike Vertical & remove the LH plastic caps to rotate the crankshaft to BDC to allow the oil filter cavity to drain the 6-8 ounces of old oil from the filter cavity?
Maybe that much residual old oil is why some people complain their new oil darkens so quickly?
I'm running for cover.
It will probably still happen, just to a lesser extent.
Transmission shafts & cam shafts are hollow, and filled with pressurized oil.
I would wonder how much oil is going through the filter AND how much Oil is going through the Bypass later in your Oil Filter's life. As Filters Plug, they CAN go into "Bypass" to continue feeding Oil to the engine. The Oil going through the "Bypass" is "Dirty" Oil.No - I stand it up vertically and usually tip it back and forth a few times to drain as much old oil as I can, but I recognize the fact that I'm not clearing out all the old oil and I am not surprised when it gets very dark, very quickly. I'd never thought of rotating the crankshaft to drain the last dregs, but I may do that next time I forsake the oil filter change.
FWIW, the oil filter that I removed (around 9 K miles) looked good; no visible damage, no glitter, and still has the oil filter bypass tube (valve).
I get it, you have had good luck with your methods. I think you COULD be MUCH "luckier" with more frequent Filter changes IF the Filter is going into "Bypass".
Willie
A paper media oil filter would need to look worse than many properly oiled, yet dusty foam air filters before the oil filter by-pass valve allowed anything other that the first few seconds of Cold oil thru it, IMO.
Read here, OIL Pressure, How much Ya got?
Better yet, read the entire thread.
I'm reading the VERY COOL Post! I'm going to find time to sit down and read from end to end. Thank you!A paper media oil filter would need to look worse than many properly oiled, yet dusty foam air filters before the oil filter by-pass valve allowed anything other that the first few seconds of Cold oil thru it, IMO.
Read here, OIL Pressure, How much Ya got?
Better yet, read the entire thread.
From what I've read thus far, the Filter Bypass is JUST for Cold Start-up Protection of the Oil Filter to EQUALIZE Pressure to prevent CRUSHING. Am I Tracking correctly? Can it prevent "Crushing" if the Filter PLUGS while in operation?
Willie
I "Drilled" out the Bung Hole to a MUCH LARGER diameter the other day!
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Wednesday is TIG Time!!!
Willie
Wednesday is TIG Time!!!
Willie
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