[Timlang60]

A little cruddy on the inside of some of the sleeves

I see that corrosion and I shudder. You got it out just in time. You do not want to weld a press frame out of ¼ wall 2x3 rectangular tubing and use a 10 ton jack along with a BFH just to get that shaft to budge, like i did. Ill guarantee it had never been out/greased on my new-to-me 20k '08 since it was assembled at the factory. Lots of Red & Tacky on reassemble, and it's coming apart every two years going forward. It doesn't take that long if you don't have to use extreme means!

 

[terry_g]

The new muffler showed up yesterday morning.

Five minutes later.

The clamp and liner were a bit of a pain to fit.

Some reflective foil tape on the plastic that's near the muffler.

Some reflective tape on the fender as well.

I made a spacer to shim the saddle bag bracket out about 1/2" from the muffler. I will get a longer bolt today and install it.
The new main jet should be here today one size larger.

While I was at it I topped up the battery and checked the air filter. Amazingly the air filter was spotlessly clean
but the battery electrolyte was very low. some of the cells were about 1/4 full.

 

[ADV]

I see that corrosion and I shudder. You got it out just in time. You do not want to weld a press frame out of ¼ wall 2x3 rectangular tubing and use a 10 ton jack along with a BFH just to get that shaft to budge, like i did. Ill guarantee it had never been out/greased on my new-to-me 20k '08 since it was assembled at the factory. Lots of Red & Tacky on reassemble, and it's coming apart every two years going forward. It doesn't take that long if you don't have to use extreme means!

Wow @Timlang60, now Im feeling even more lucky! I have read some horror stories about getting that bolt out, but your post really puts that into perspective. (had to look up what BFH meant lol)

(I got the new spring and dropped the shock off yesterday. Once its installed I'll give an update.)

 

[Fepony]

Today I put my Polisport front fender on and added some armor.

 

[KevinK]

Loosen the nut on the brake actuator shaft & adjust the pedal tip to the desired height.

It didn't look to me like there was enough adjustment to drop the pedal as far as I would want, so I didn't even try it initially. But after this suggestion, I maxed out the adjustment and took a longer ride. Pedal position was indeed much better after that, so the lowering brackets are staying put - thanks for the suggestion!

 

[Fepony]

Went out this morning and did the kickstand bypass.

 

[Pragmatic]

Replaced rechargable battery, updated maps and s/w in older Garmin Zumo 595-LM GPS.

 

[ADV]

Yesterday while waiting for my shock to come back, I installed the WOW taillight. ($112 shipped, WOW indeed)

The installation of the WOW light would have been super quick, if not for this bit as mentioned on the website:
"If your installation causes a small gap between the tail-light lens and gasket, remove a small amount ( about 1/16") of material from the taillight mounting posts with a small file or rotary tool. This will let the lens seal tight and keep water out."

I wish I had used a dremel because this took awhile before it fit snug.

I needed to remove enough to make space for the perfboard holders:

Anyhow, now that it is installed, I am very happy with the flashing and the brightness when the brake is on. The running brightness is not that great, but that is probably because Im only driving it solely off the batterey until I get the bike running again lol. EDIT: I finally got the bike back together and WOW, this thing is bright when the engine is running!! Love it.

At some point I'd also like to try try this $15 light I saw in this video.

 

[Biggs3118]

Pulled the swingarm & linkage off to grease the needle bearings. Perfect timing as they were definitely due for fresh grease after 17k miles. (Caught it before any damage started occurring).
Before:

After:

It's my observation that Kawasaki(and most other mfg) skimp on applying grease from the factory. If you're wondering whether or not your bikes bearings have sufficient grease, I'd recommend giving them some love. Probably needs it.

I used a lithium based EP(extreme pressure) moly grease. Should last atleast another 20k or more now.

Best wishes and remember always Ride Hard & often, life is short.

 

[Busafied]

Got it Inspected after setting 12 years in the barn..
1 step closer to the goal.

 

[Biggs3118]

While installing a 'new' chain I decided to modify the front sprocket cover so that I'd be able to route the stator wires to the 'outside' of the cover; away from the sprocket and 'heat' of the engine cases. Typically those wires get 'crammed' into a small channel between the cover and case. They barely clear the front sprocket(especially with a 16T) and sit against the hot engine cases(I frequently ride in 110degF weather). The way I see it at some point this is going to cause a 'failure' to occur. I also extended the neutral switch wire to be routed down and around as well. The wire already had a small break in the insulation and was quite 'stiff' from heat soak. Failure averted. Being proactive is sometimes the best medicine. Here's pics of my solution:

Best wishes and ride hard for life is short.

 

[pdwestman]

I've done that to a couple of KLR's over the past couple of years. But I partially remove the green Neutral light wire from the sheath and keep it routed in its original channel in the engine case.

 

[banditcilik]

I put car bluetooth remote button for controlling volume and music on my phone. Now I can use turn by turn navigation and adjust the volume based on noise level.

 

[ADV]

Installed the rebuilt shock today:
Around $280 including:

• New topgun 6.6 kg/mm spring ($80)
• New bumper to replace the disintegrated one ($13)
• New o-ring for the schrader valve (Part number Honda P# 91307-ML7-004 - thanks @Biggs3118!) ($3)
  • RM RTV will add this to your order if you call them
• Race Tech shock seal shaft assembly ($75)
• Rebuild ($110)
  • 10 weight oil
  • Nitrogen
  • Labor

When researching the spring I found a ton of conflicting information about recommended spring weights for different load weights. In the end I just went with what is published on the TopGun website as it seems they have done a lot of research on it. But then I read the 2014.5 KLR moved to an 8 kg/mm from the stock 5.1, so idk. Either way, it should be better. (have yet to ride it)

Update: Went for a road ride this weekend and it felt great! I feel way more planted. It is a little harder on my back though lol. Im glad I went with the the 6.6 and not something stiffer...wow, what a difference! I weigh around 190lb plus gear and such.

I also reinstalled the well greased swingarm and linkage bolts. Sure is nice to know that is done, I think if I had waited a few more years it would have been a bigger jog.

Up next, new chain/sprockets, tusk shifter to replace my bent one, and a DOT JNS headlight!

 

[Fepony]

Today I installed the silencer on the Delkevik and I also installed the front rotor armor. I also added the Enduro Engineering shock linkage guard. Bolted right up to existing holes.

 

[Biggs3118]

Installed the rebuilt shock today:
Around $280 including:

• New topgun 6.6 kg/mm spring ($80)
• New bumper to replace the disintegrated one ($13)
• New o-ring for the schrader valve (O-RING (6X2) (NOK) (Honda Code 2408821) ) ($3)
  • RM RTV will add this to your order if you call them
• Race Tech shock seal shaft assembly ($75)
• Rebuild ($110)
  • 10 weight oil
  • Nitrogen
  • Labor (@Fepony , I just sent you the contact info for the guy that did the work)

When researching the spring I found a ton of conflicting information about recommended spring weights for different load weights. In the end I just went with what is published on the TopGun website as it seems they have done a lot of research on it. But then I read the 2014.5 KLR moved to an 8 kg/mm from the stock 5.1, so idk. Either way, it should be better. (have yet to ride it)

I also reinstalled the well greased swingarm and linkage bolts. Sure is nice to know that is done, I think if I had waited a few more years it would have been a bigger jog.

Up next, new chain/sprockets, tusk shifter to replace my bent one, and a DOT JNS headlight!


View attachment 37924

Here's the P# for the Schrader valve oring

Honda P# 91307-ML7-004

 

[ADV]

Well, after tinkering on it for the last three weekends I finally got the bike back together today and started! (too tired to ride it yet though).

The Good:

• Way cleaner
• Suspension greased
• Shock rebuilt with a slightly stiffer spring
• New shifter
• New subframe bolts (still need to swap the bottom ones)
• New tank pucks (not sure what happened to the old ones!)
• New WOW taillight which is amazing! (especially when the engine is running lol)
• New JNS DOT headlight which is a vast improvement
• New chain and sprockets (the gold chain looks great I think)
• Got some new tools/supplies:
  • 1/2" breaker bar
  • T handle socket set (man I wish I bought this earlier, super handy)
  • Chain press tool (on order)
  • Silicone RTV (used to plug the holes below the rocker arm bolt, and to attach the engine pucks)
  • Red and Tacky grease (after a bit of research and a wide range of internet opinions this seemed like it would work and was pretty cheap)

The Bad:

• I have one left over big head screw, like the kind used to attach the side panels. It may be an extra I had, but Im kicking myself because Im not sure - I looked all over the bike and don't see an open hole. I need to keep better track during disassembly going forward.
• The bike is a bit taller now due to the 'new' shock (not really bad, but not good lol). It definitely feels stiffer - yet to ride it though.
• The shifter is too high, need to take it off and adjust it a bit
• The headlight is also too high - seemed fine in the garage, but when I went out in the driveway it didn't. Adjusting it means removing the front cowling again.
• When installing the master link on the chain, I accidentally pushed the pins through the back plate a bit - which doesn't seem good, so I ordered another one (2 actually)
• The closer I look the more rusty bits and old rubber I see lol

Anyhow, apologies for the long post, but Im super stoked. I started riding about 4 years ago (in my early 50's) and never did much mechanical work before then. I find it very satisfying (most of the time haha), wishing I had started it (and riding) much sooner.

Cheers,
Steve


This all started because I wanted to replace the chain

 

[banditcilik]

When researching the spring I found a ton of conflicting information about recommended spring weights for different load weights. In the end I just went with what is published on the TopGun website as it seems they have done a lot of research on it. But then I read the 2014.5 KLR moved to an 8 kg/mm from the stock 5.1, so idk. Either way, it should be better. (have yet to ride it)

How much do you weigh?

 

[ADV]

How much do you weigh?

Hi @banditcilik, roughly 190lb plus gear, so say 210 unless camping or something.

 

[Busafied]

Well, after tinkering on it for the last three weekends I finally got the bike back together today and started! (too tired to ride it yet though).

The Good:

• Way cleaner
• Suspension greased
• Shock rebuilt with a slightly stiffer spring
• New shifter
• New subframe bolts (still need to swap the bottom ones)
• New tank pucks (not sure what happened to the old ones!)
• New WOW taillight which is amazing! (especially when the engine is running lol)
• New JNS DOT headlight which is a vast improvement
• New chain and sprockets (the gold chain looks great I think)
• Got some new tools/supplies:
  • 1/2" breaker bar
  • T handle socket set (man I wish I bought this earlier, super handy)
  • Chain press tool (on order)
  • Silicone RTV (used to plug the holes below the rocker arm bolt, and to attach the engine pucks)
  • Red and Tacky grease (after a bit of research and a wide range of internet opinions this seemed like it would work and was pretty cheap)

The Bad:

• I have one left over big head screw, like the kind used to attach the side panels. It may be an extra I had, but Im kicking myself because Im not sure - I looked all over the bike and don't see an open hole. I need to keep better track during disassembly going forward.
• The bike is a bit taller now due to the 'new' shock (not really bad, but not good lol). It definitely feels stiffer - yet to ride it though.
• The shifter is too high, need to take it off and adjust it a bit
• The headlight is also too high - seemed fine in the garage, but when I went out in the driveway it didn't. Adjusting it means removing the front cowling again.
• When installing the master link on the chain, I accidentally pushed the pins through the back plate a bit - which doesn't seem good, so I ordered another one (2 actually)
• The closer I look the more rusty bits and old rubber I see lol

Anyhow, apologies for the long post, but Im super stoked. I started riding about 4 years ago (in my early 50's) and never did much mechanical work before then. I find it very satisfying (most of the time haha), wishing I had started it (and riding) much sooner.

Cheers,
Steve


This all started because I wanted to replace the chain
View attachment 37930

Looks good!

did You overhaul or they did the overhaul?
Shipping etc.
TIA