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So whoever said synthetic is for fags really ought to do his homework better,
I did, and as mentioned more that once, purely as a joke.. If you actually read the post, you'd know that by now.

I USED to use synthetic oil in my crankcase on my BMW's, but because it managed to creep into my dry clutch housing and contaminate my dry clutch, I quit using it.

Again, this was a dry clutch application on a BMW motorcycle, and the Synth oil creeped into the dry clutch area and contaminated the plate, causing slippage..

I'm much more concerned about keeping my oil clean than how long it'll last, so I use dino oil and change more often.. At less than $2 per filter and less than $6 for all the oil needed, I'll gladly change every 2000 miles. Since I do my own service work I'm not interested in saving costs for service..

And if someone wants to bring up the GREEN issues about not changing oil so soon, just remember that a gas guzzling full size pickup with 4 people in it gets better gas mileage than 4 people riding their own motorcycles at the same time, so if you want to be GREEN, you should car pool and sell your motorcycles..:)


There.. That should be plenty of fodder for a REAL oil thread argument..:character00271:
 

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To Wanderer: I use 20/50 Castrol in the KLR 650 due to the clutch, I tried synthetic and do not like the clutch jump. I stopped using it after the first time. The CB 750 was nasty after setting all winter when I lived in Illinois for the first couple of weeks, might as well rev it up and slam the gear lever. I use Harley synthetic in my 97 FLHTC, transmission and engine, belt drive for the primary. If I can find better clutch plates before to many miles I will switch to synthetic in the KLR in a heart beat.
 

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Chevron delo 400 in 15/40 wt. :character00201:
 

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To muck this up further. How about additives. I have been using BG products MOA in my cars for a couple years. I put on a lot of miles and you can extend oil changes out, plus it has superior fiction protection to ANY synthetic oil on the market. I know it is the way to go in an auto engine. I was commuting 90 miles a day and did a lot of experimenting with different oils and grades of fuel. I am a very skeptical person when it comes to things that sound to be good to be true and it proved it self to me. Better mileage, reduced oil consumption and cleaner oil. What is the expert opinion on this? Would this effect the wet clutch?
Retails for $10 per can.

http://www.bgprod.com/products/engineoil.html
 

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Additives?

yeah, just add right to line....:23a:


JK



No additives....they are not needed.

An additive could affect the wet clutch...like a slick50 will make the clutch slip. You will then have to flush it out of there.:character00271:
 

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On additives, I'm a private pilot, nothing fancy, vfr single engine land, read an article right after the ffa approved Slick 50, they approved it, with the add on, they found it did nothing for the engine, but didn't harm it in anyway. However, the author of the article was afraid it might work, reason being, there is absolutely no way to guarentee uniformity of coating on cylinder walls with a splash system, as it would be applied, this could cause uneven wear in cylinder bores, made sense to me, I have never used Slick 50 or STP in anything, choice is yours.
 

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Paper: Don't know how I missed your comment, for this I apoligize.
Regular oil changed frequently is the best, no argument there, you miss the point that there is no such thing as a perfect piston ring, some exhaust gas leakage, i.e. oil gets darker the longer you use it, synthetic oil will not mix with exhaust gases and keeps your viscosity up a lot longer, in "theory", syn. oil will never break down, however you can not get the metal particles from normal wear and tear out of it, which will be like sandpaper in your engine. As the viscosity of your oil breaks down the piston ring gets closer to the cylinder wall, there is no contact of metal to metal in a cylinder, think so rub two pieces of steel together at 5000 rpms and see what happens, I've watched locomotive engine valves welded together using this same friction method, the inconel head held in place and the stilite(?) stem spun and jammed into it, synthetic puts a better barrier in there.
 

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On additives, I'm a private pilot, nothing fancy, vfr single engine land, read an article right after the ffa approved Slick 50, they approved it, with the add on, they found it did nothing for the engine, but didn't harm it in anyway. However, the author of the article was afraid it might work, reason being, there is absolutely no way to guarentee uniformity of coating on cylinder walls with a splash system, as it would be applied, this could cause uneven wear in cylinder bores, made sense to me, I have never used Slick 50 or STP in anything, choice is yours.
BG MOA is not anything like Slick 50. Slick 50 is high on solids that are ment to build up on the moving parts. MOA is ment to be added with every change and is just extra detergents and friction additives that are already in conventional oil and synthetic oil. I have tried Slick 50 years ago and saw no benifit also. I did see benifit with the MOA in my tests though in my car.
 

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Bump!!

I'll encourage anyone reading this OLD thread to Read Blackstones comment paragraph of my first ever oil Analysis in my Newer thread,
http://www.klrforum.com/klr-other-motorcycle-related-discussion/38962-laboratory-oil-analysis-thread.html (Left click on the Blue Highlight.)

I have only read 1 Blackstone Oil Analysis on the KLR650 which is barely better than my chosen oil!

My chosen oil, Kawasaki 10W40 Petroleum, part # K61021-202A.
I urge any and all to Attempt to surpass my Minimal ppm (per thousand miles traveled, Iron 32ppm divide by 5 = 6.4ppm per thou.) (UA 23ppm divide by 1.9 = 12.1ppm per thou.) of wearable metals and POST your results in my thread.
 

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I use to run Pennzoil 15W-40 Marine oil in my KLR. It had a lot of zinc and a high TBN.

I will most likely run either 5W-40 or 0W-40 in the future when my old stash of oil runs out.
 
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