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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everybody,
I drive a '06 KLR 650 with 260 miles on it and it's the first time I'm going to spill new fluids in it. What type of brake fluid (front and back) should I use, what type of coolant should I use, what type of gasoline should I use, and what kind of motor oil should I use... if I didn't mention any other fluids, feel free to write them down. Please be very specific for the highest performance.

Thank You,
Amin Y.:character00110: :character0053:
 

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Read the manual, oil and fluids are really what you want to use as long as it is within the manufacturers specks. You don't have to use Kawasaki oils, I have used wally-worlds oil, synthedic oil, and now I use castrol 20w40-50.
Brake fluid is dot 4 I think and coolant I use a M/C coolant.
 

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Leave the coolant in it, same with the brake fluid. Cheap gas. Buy the best synthetic oil that money can buy..see the thread of my trashed transmission if in doubt.

Oh yeah, change the blinker fluid at 1,000 miles..synthetic is best.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Leave the coolant in it, same with the brake fluid. Cheap gas. Buy the best synthetic oil that money can buy..see the thread of my trashed transmission if in doubt.

Oh yeah, change the blinker fluid at 1,000 miles..synthetic is best.


but what kind of coolant, what kind of brake fluid

Thanks,
Amin
 

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Read the manual, oil and fluids are really what you want to use as long as it is within the manufacturers specks. You don't have to use Kawasaki oils, I have used wally-worlds oil, synthedic oil, and now I use castrol 20w40-50.
Brake fluid is dot 4 I think and coolant I use a M/C coolant.
DOT 4 and use a good motorcycle coolant, Honda, kawasaki, think I have heard some using dexcool and distilled water. 50/50 mix. Your owner's manual should inform you of everything to use. Your best bet is to purchase a good Service Manual from Kawasaki.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
DOT 4 and use a good motorcycle coolant, Honda, kawasaki, think I have heard some using dexcool and distilled water. 50/50 mix. Your owner's manual should inform you of everything to use. Your best bet is to purchase a good Service Manual from Kawasaki.
Thank you
 

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There is no earthly reason to change your coolant or brake fluid for at least a year and probably 2. As far as oil goes, Kowalski recommends 10/40, but with the caveat that it not be rated "Energy conserving". This has to do with additives that are not wet clutch friendly. Generally all automotive 10/40 oils are energy conserving. 20/50 oils are not. And Kowalski lists 10/50 and 20/50 as alternatives as long as it is warm enough out. Another really good choice is oil intended for diesel engines.........Shell Rotella and Chevron Delo are 2 examples. These oils come in 15/40, which splits the difference.
Personally, and opinions vary, I would use non-synthetic oil at least until 3k miles, just to be sure the rings have a chance to run in.
As far as synthetics go, synthetic diesel oil is a great choice.....it is available in 5/40. I myself use Mobil 1 15/50 automotive oil. It is cheap enough, and available at any Wallyworld.
Good Luck!
 

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nofull synthetics

i talked to a motorcycle machanic who specializes in the
klr650 and dr650. he said amsoil and full synthetics over
time will harden the o-rings and seals in the engine causing
problem down the road. he recomended THUMPER 20-50
because it is made for hard hitting and hy revving engines
like the klr650
 

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i talked to a motorcycle machanic who specializes in the
klr650 and dr650. he said amsoil and full synthetics over
time will harden the o-rings and seals in the engine causing
problem down the road. he recomended THUMPER 20-50
because it is made for hard hitting and hy revving engines
like the klr650
The "Synthetic oils cause seals to leak" is not a current complaint. Back in the early (1970s) days of synthetics, some oils allowed seals to shrink. That was corrected 30 years ago. There is no evidence that the seals in KLR motors are any different than the seals in any other modern motor. Synthetic oils are no more likely to harden them than petroleum oils. And most specialty label oils are just an exercise in marketing. Use "Thumper" or whatever makes you feel better. But synthetics have proven to hold up to heat better, produce less wear and break down more slowly than petro oils. YMMV.
 

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hard hitting and hy revving engines like the klr650
I feel like I'm in that Geico caveman commercial... "Yeah, I have a question"... "Uhhh.. WHAT?".

Are you talking about some secret KLR650 experiment that makes the the KLR650 a high hitting and high revving engine? Seems quite the opposite to me, quite a dog of a bike overall. I don't consider 5-6,000rpm even close to high revving when you look at some bikes hitting 11,000 and 12,000 consistantly.
 

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I feel like I'm in that caveman commercial...
Leave the caveman out of this, he's riding, and can't defend himself, and we all know his KLR has a constant oil change build in. :23a:
 

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i talked to a motorcycle machanic who specializes in the
klr650 and dr650. he said amsoil and full synthetics over
time will harden the o-rings and seals in the engine causing
problem down the road. he recomended THUMPER 20-50
because it is made for hard hitting and hy revving engines
like the klr650
I have been running Synthetic in my 1990 KLR 650 for about 15-16 years and have 80,000 miles on the original rings. I, respectfully, don't think that guy is correct.
 
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