And lots of threads on stripped drain plugs... Not sure how much you've worked on bikes in the past, but it's real easy to strip the plug and mess up the cases if you over torque it. Please use caution when tightening that puppy up.
Again, if you have experience with aluminum threads ignore this, I just hate to see gory pics of cracked cases.
Oh, and as far as the oil, I use Rotella 15W 40 as well, relatively cheap and easy to find .
Oops, another edit from me!
I peeked back at some of your previous posts and see that you've done lots of wrenching on bikes before, please disregard my previous post!
Lol, thanks for not taking offence. I didn't realize you had experience on the wrenches .
Rotella is an even better deal when you can catch it on sale. In these parts every once in a while WalMart or Canadian Tire discounts it, that's when I usually try to stock up a bit!
One mistake I did last time though, Canadian Tire had a smoking deal on 5 gallon pails of the stuff so I scooped one. Price was great, but it's a pain in the butt to work out of, even though I decant it into a smaller jug before using it, it's still messy! Plus, I have to watch that it doesn't become contaminated before I use it up. I'll stick with the smaller jugs next time! Lol
Rotella is a popular choice for many various bike owners these days. It does have the JASO-MA cert if that has any relevance to you. I personally have used if for years. It is available in any Walmart so easy find if you need a quart.
JASO is what i was worried about with Rotella.. that's awesome it is.
Mobil does make v-twin/4 stroke that is (i think) but the availability of Rotella is a big bonus...
Thanks
Gordon
I could be mistaken, but I'll just guess that Shell Rotella was used in many of the previous 30 some Blackstone lab report samples that were used to make the Universal Average at the date of my 1st sample.
I do believe that I am using one of the better oils that Blackstone has tested. And I would really like for you or anyone to submit a sample of 'whatever' you wind-up using to attempt to dethrone my results. 3000 or 5000 mile sample will be real easy to compare.
I'd really like for him to submit a sample. That could encourage me to change up. Probably to the Kawasaki Semi-Synthetic 10W40 and have a test run at achieving even lower ppm per 1000 miles traveled.
It is still a matter of availability, I am in the middle nowhere and the nearest kawi dealer is a d#ck.
With a part# I can get many different brand oil filters from Autozone, however I can order oil change kits, genuine kawi from amazon...
More things to think about...
How about the local Honda or Suzuki Dealer? I'd love to see a sample of their oil also. I feel my Kawasaki oil still surpassed the performance of 'Liftrats' Yamalube. But the Yamalube did perform well. But, I've now viewed it's results. So I say, "Next"!
Nearest Honda dealer is AWESOME!!
I needed windshield rubbers (grommets), no one had them... he sent his tech out to pull off new bike and charged me $9.00 for all 4.
Cost is a factor, I can do a lot of Rotella changes for the same cost of 1 w/Honda oil.
I know I look rich and hansom on the KLR but there is a reason I bought it used.. lol
Luckily the KLR is much more forgiving if the wrong oil goes in.
Don't sweat it. It's kinda cold blooded (without Thermal-Robert) and some folks
have run 10w-30 regular motor oil from Wal-Mart/Autozone store brand oils without
issue. If you aren't riding all that hard the clutch will likely never slip, and on that
note too synthetic won't likely slip it. Some go the 20w-50 route (I did) due to
the beating a crank bearing takes on a big-bore single. I was corrected by other
members/ mentors here at KLRforum that it's not an issue with our type of bearing
(needle rollers), and the pulse is directed to many points within the con-rod, and moving
so no single point is getting hammered. I did 20/50 in the DynaGlide cuz it beat the tar
out of itself the way I punish motorcycles. Non-issue here.
Obviously running the correctest oil is bestest. Those (JASO's) have already been stated.
Grudude,
This message/posting isn't really directed at you. This goes to the thousands of members
and guest readers trolling for useful bits. If you are road trippin' or way out in the bush
in need of lube, you can safely dump nearly anything in our lovingly moderate powered
40 hp motors. They don't have the crazy revs and power of an expensive and
technical motor under the hood. The parts just need to slide. Change it out when ya
get back to the shanty and not give it any worry.
Agree: any 10w40 is fine, as long as it's clean (read:changed regularly).
I've used: Suzuki oil, Kawasaki oil, Castrol, Havoline, Quaker State, Valvoline, Rotella...and one time I even used a quart of generic store-brand 10w40 from a convenient store, because I needed oil, and that's all they had.
I tend to use Kaw oil, because I like to patronize my local dealer for oil and filters, and his prices are pretty good. ($5/qt)
I personally wouldn't worry about mixing brands/weights at all!
I'd change it at my normal 3000 mile mark.
And this statement is coming from a Green to the Core Kawasaki dealer!
I have added some Rotella to my Kawasaki oil. It is still running.
Noob question, but Rotella being a diesel oil doesn't matter? I don't think I've ever looked at a bottle of Rotella until I've seen it mentioned here...
" I have heard several opinions on using diesel oil in a gasoline engine. Some say this is a great idea for the engine internals while others say it isn't the correct application. All agree that the higher levels of anti-wear additives might shorten the life of emissions related components over time like the cat, O2 sensor, and the like."
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