[Candubrain]

I've got the JNS relocating brackets, but I have no idea why the pegs are also moved backwards by an 1". I find because my foot is further back, the angle of my ankle is also tighter reducing the range of motion, (up/down).

Is it to shift weight rearward? Which doesn't make sense if you want to keep your front wheel loaded for traction.

Is it to increase shift lever and brake pedal clearance for big boots?

To give more forward lean when standing?

I've bought a stock brake pedal off eBay and ordered a Tusk shift lever to replace my modified lever and brake and I'm going to try going back to stock position to see how I like it after riding several thousand Ks with the JNS set up. Might also try the Knight Design pegs to give me the leg room.

On the Knight Design website they do not recommend the 1-1/2" drop pegs for adventure riding. Any idea why?

thanks
brian

 

[pdwestman]

Everyones foot, ankle, boot & range of motion is different.

The standard Moose pegs which are wider front & rear caused me to need to raise the gear pedal a spline on the shaft. Trading to 1/2inch back-offset pegs, I may be able to lower my shifter.

The JNS down & back brackets were designed for the size 13 & up boots, mainly. As I understand.

 

[Bluehighways]

Moving the Pegs Back and Down with the JNS set-up along with a longer Shift Lever fits my Size 12 Feet perfectly. Both for the Foot Brake and the Shift Lever. All that and without loosing any vertical ground clearance.

 

[DPelletier]

Yes the drop pegs/relocation brackets help with increased peg-to-shifter difference and the drop helps with the rear brake pedal height but IMO the stock pegs are too high and too far forward for optimal offroad ergonomics.

My footpeg post;

the stock pegs are garbage and I heartily recommend replacing them BUT the stock peg brackets are too far forward and too tall and most aftermarket pegs exacerbate the issue by being wider and taller yet.....this leads to a hearty aftermarket for longer shift levers (which stick out farther and have an additional risk of case damage)
There are several ways of addressing this ergo issue, you can use the pegs of your choice plus;

- 1) plate style drop peg brackets. some are straight down, some are on an angle to position the pegs back. Cheap but they reduce ground clearance and are now the new lowest point - not good when trying to skid the bike over a log etc. ....they also cover the linkage bolt http://www.ebay.ca/itm/KLR-650-Foot-...5VFcei&vxp=mtr

- 2) you can modify the stock peg mounts by cutting and rewelding them in the proper position. Cheap and works great as long as you have the equipment, skills and time

- 3) You can use the JNS peg relocation brackets. Only downside I see is that you now need to remove the brackets to pull the linkage bolt. ...they are more $$ than the other two options. http://www.jnsengineering.com/produc...ring-brackets/ NOTE: I have heard that the drop on the JNS’s is too much for some people’s set up.

OR


- you can use the Knight Designs drop pegs. I have them on both my KLR and love them. Hi quality billet pegs, light and strong. Not real cheap though. About KD Foot Pegs


Cheers,
Dave

 

[Candubrain]

Moving the Pegs Back and Down with the JNS set-up along with a longer Shift Lever fits my Size 12 Feet perfectly. Both for the Foot Brake and the Shift Lever. All that and without loosing any vertical ground clearance.

My similar set up but with Pivot Pegs just didn't work. I have the shift lever and brake pedal modified by the welders at work, but I'm still not comfortable. Works great on the Hiway, but standing up.....no

Leaning to Knight Design foot pegs & stock brackets

 

[Bluehighways]

My similar set up but with Pivot Pegs just didn't work. I have the shift lever and brake pedal modified by the welders at work, but I'm still not comfortable. Works great on the Hiway, but standing up.....no Leaning to Knight Design foot pegs & stock brackets

Yea, I have a real concern with the extended Shift Lever on my bike. It's the distinct possibility that not if, but when (one of these times) it lays down on the Left Side, there will be bent Shift Lever and a hole in the Stator Cover as well.

 

[DPelletier]

Yea, I have a real concern with the extended Shift Lever on my bike. It's the distinct possibility that not if, but when (one of these times) it lays down on the Left Side, there will be bent Shift Lever and a hole in the Stator Cover as well.

I bought +1 IMS extended levers for both bikes, installed one of them and didn't like how far the lever now stuck out (past the factory relief on the side cover). It was actually hard to find a stock length aftermarket lever; IIRC I finally went with a Moose unit.

Dave

 

[DPelletier]

Leaning to Knight Design foot pegs & stock brackets

That's what I have on both bikes; works perfect for me.

Cheers,
Dave

 

[Hvymax]

JNS pegs are the shizz for size 13's

 

[Candubrain]

JNS pegs are the shizz for size 13's

I got 13's using the Sidi Adventure Rain boots, just not working for me. Fine for cruising down the road, no good while standing on the pegs.

 

[Candubrain]

That's what I have on both bikes; works perfect for me.

Cheers,
Dave

Just got an email back from KD. They don't recommend their 1-1/2" drop peg for off road......here's their reply

These lowered pegs are made from 7075 hard aluminum, they are not designed for hitting hard objects.
We do understand that each rider’s style is different and if you riding off road and not punishing the footpegs then they are fine.
These pegs will break, not bend if they encounter a hard surface. That’s the nature of 7075 aluminum and we can’t work around it.

 

[pdwestman]

Just got an email back from KD. They don't recommend their 1-1/2" drop peg for off road......here's their reply

These lowered pegs are made from 7075 hard aluminum, they are not designed for hitting hard objects.
We do understand that each rider’s style is different and if you riding off road and not punishing the footpegs then they are fine.
These pegs will break, not bend if they encounter a hard surface. That’s the nature of 7075 aluminum and we can’t work around it.

Brian,
If you will actually purchase the KD pegs and use them, I think that you will agree with Dave Pelletier.
Their Statement is a Non-Issue. Too many "legal-beagles" in this modern society!

There is a joke about riding a crow-bar to town, with-out bending it.

 

[DPelletier]

Just got an email back from KD. They don't recommend their 1-1/2" drop peg for off road......here's their reply

These lowered pegs are made from 7075 hard aluminum, they are not designed for hitting hard objects.
We do understand that each rider’s style is different and if you riding off road and not punishing the footpegs then they are fine.
These pegs will break, not bend if they encounter a hard surface. That’s the nature of 7075 aluminum and we can’t work around it.

Thanks, yeah; I agree with Paul....I'd consider this a non-issue though I use the lesser drop KD pegs which are perfect for me ergonomically. As far as the aluminum goes, it's the same with brake and shifter pedals both of which see more impacts and are made from aluminum on all offroad racing bikes.

I've ridden both my KLR's offroad on reasonably challenging single track for a couple of years now with the KD pegs and despite hitting them on rocks, roots and other objects numerous times; they are still intact.

Cheers,
Dave