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Gang,
Turned over 1100 mi this weekend on the new bike. Adjusted the chain, clutch cable and changed the oil and filter. Got to wondering, when should I make adjustments on the doohickey? I saw something that said 7500 mi, but just want a little more info. Thanks...
 

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Every oil change.
 

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Gang,
Turned over 1100 mi this weekend on the new bike. Adjusted the chain, clutch cable and changed the oil and filter. Got to wondering, when should I make adjustments on the doohickey? I saw something that said 7500 mi, but just want a little more info. Thanks...
And the sooner you change the doohickey, the better.
 

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I know there are lots of discussion on the Doo Hickey, I am a new KLR owner here so be gentle, when you change the doo hickey do I need to purchase the torsion spring kit also?

Rocky Mountain ATV/MC has an Eagle Mfg. Doohickey - Balancer Idle Lever & Spring Upgrade that comes with two springs.

Which one to use?

Thanks.
 

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I know there are lots of discussion on the Doo Hickey, I am a new KLR owner here so be gentle, when you change the doo hickey do I need to purchase the torsion spring kit also?

Rocky Mountain ATV/MC has an Eagle Mfg. Doohickey - Balancer Idle Lever & Spring Upgrade that comes with two springs.

Which one to use?

Thanks.
You have to get the Balancer Idle Lever & Spring Upgrade AND the Torsion Spring. The two coil springs are not used. My guess is no one ever updated the pictures. It is confusing. I went down the same road during my inception. Look a the Studebaker doo as a quality option too.
 

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The torsion spring is optional but recommended. The coil springs will work but eventually you may have to change them as they will stretch. The torsion spring doesn't have that problem. When I did mine the torsion spring was not yet an option. I used the longer of the two springs to start. I have a torsion spring on hand but have been too lazy to take it apart just to install it. So far the coil spring still seems to be doing it's job.

Personally I don't recommend to buy the Studebaker Doo as it is basically a knock off product using Eagle Mikes engineering. Buy the Eagle Mike unit and support a guy that supports us.

.
 

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Not contradicting you at all, klr4evr; however, the origin/genesis of the aftermarket doohickey remains rather complex; even controversial.

VATrader did some research on the subject; posted on this website, IIRC.

Regardless, I quite agree the Eagle Mike torsion spring appears superior to the coil springs; OEM or aftermarket.

FULL DISCLOSURE: Eagle Mike doohickey and torsion spring installed on my Generation 1 KLR650.
 

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I not getting into a pissing match about which doo to use; frankly I don't care which one anyone uses. The Studebaker 6AS is just as good or probably better than the rest.

Nuff said for me. :)
 

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I shopped Eagle Mike, Studebaker, and Rocky Mountain.
Best deal and easiest deal is Eagle Mike's kit that provides all the special tools and parts for a one low price.

Best option I think.
 

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After much research I believe the Eaglemike doohickey and spring is the best on the market and wouldn't buy one anywhere else for this reason alone even without considering all the other history and I don't really see the rationale for going with anything else....to save $6.68.



2 cents,
Dave
 

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I have an Eagle Mike in my 2009 gen 2. I wouldn't have it any other way. Just before changing mine out, I posted several questions and klr4evr and Tom Schmitz responded with real information...not that anyone else isn't helpful.

Seriously, I changed mine about 4,000 and have 12,000 now. Smooth as a whistle and I have not open to "reset" the spring. I have been running synthetic oil, so I only have changed the oil twice since, but the bike runs great.

For me, once installed, I just maintain the KLR and ride. I would expect there will be several responses, but I found Eagle Mike's quality excellent and have bought many items from him.
 

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So what changes or benefits will there be after I upgrade the doo hickey? Will I notice it or will it just be done?
 

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what to expect

I didn't really notice any difference in the performance or ride. I think, for me, it was more peace of mind. I had heard of horror stories that the doohickey failed and the chain shot through the case! I read about all the mods and fixes that would prevent this from happening to my bike, so I did the Do!
Later, I read that the older, Gen 1 bikes were the bikes you need to do this mod for. I have read both pros and cons on changing the lever on Gen 2 bikes and really don't have any scientific or factual information that supports or refutes changing it out.
I do have peace of mind that I did it and I should not have to worry about it. There are far more experienced mechanics on this forum who can give you more information about the benefits of changing it out.
Bottom line: I did change mine out with an Eagle Mike Doohickey. Now, I never worry about my failing, so I just hop on the bike and enjoy the ride.
 

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Nothing you will notice other than that you will sleep better at night knowing your bike won't implode under your butt.
 
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klr4evr has always been around here and I not only agree with him, but it is probably the same feedback he gave me when I did mine 2 years ago.
Seriously, peace of mind, brother, peace of mind!
Now concentrate on the road, traffic, trees and holes!
 

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Up to the 2008 models (when OEM doohickeys were revised by Kawasaki), idle shaft lever (doohickey) failures sometimes resulted in catastrophic collateral engine damage.

Since then, few, if any, doohickey component failures have been reported, although spring tension/durability issues have surfaced.

This notional poll will never be taken, but . . . in 30 model years (1987-2016 inclusive) of production, what percentage of KLR650s worldwide on the road today have aftermarket doohickeys installed? A Generation 1/Generation 2 breakdown would be interesting.

FULL DISCLOSURE: Eagle Mike doohickey and torsion spring on my Generation 1.
 

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So what changes or benefits will there be after I upgrade the doo hickey? Will I notice it or will it just be done?
ryno23,
On an '87-'07 the doo-hickey or the spring could break, causing major damage.
On the 2008 and up models, the spring IS TOO Long and will go 'slack' by 10-20k miles. A too slack chain wears on things. And the extension spring could still possibly break, and cause major damage.

A properly tensioned / regularly adjusted chain runs smoother and quieter. Be it an engine balancer chain or the final drive chain.
 

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And it is like I said. If you want to learn about the KLR and any modification made to one, you can find it all here. This is exactly why I frequent this forum and why I purchased a Lifetime membership!
I always strive to do my best at everything I do. These guys give me the knowledge to do my best!
 
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