[pdwestman]

Nobody would wait until the 12 month warranty is up?

Many owners do wait until after the warranty period is over to alter anything engine related.

But if the installation of a Thermo-Bob is going to help with longevity or reduce the possibility of oil consumption it is best to improve the system as soon as possible.
Get the Entire engine as fully warmed-up as possible, as quickly as possible, not just the the Too Cool of oem thermostat (160F). 190-230F engine temp dries the cold start condensation from the engine quicker & more completely.
Modern engine oils lubricate best at these higher temps and the KLR crankcase is One Giant Oil Cooler, especially in ambient temps below 70F.

As long as a Thermo-Bob installation is performed properly/correctly, it will not void the factory warranty.

 

[pdwestman]

Hit the nail on the head at the end. If installed correctly. Aussie dealers will look for any reason not to touch a modified bike.

I'll bet those same Aussie dealers will Gladly sell any motorcyclist any and all aftermarket parts they can provide, yes?
Will they install those same aftermarket mufflers, FI controllers, big bore kits, clutch kits themselves?
If so whats the difference?

The only difference that I see, is that the Aussie Dealers don't have ready access to the Thermo-Bob & Doo-Hickey w/torsion spring kits at a Wholesale price level! Well, neither do USA or Canada dealers.
But if a dealership or repair facility is willing to order them or better yet, stock them shouldn't they/couldn't they make a profit on them?

 

[pdwestman]

You don't need the T-Bob or the Doo on the '22. That rhymes. Pretty cool.

Check back in, in another 40 - 60k miles if you even keep your bike that long.

Slightly modified and with proper maintenance the KLR650 engine can last 150,000 - 200,000 miles without rebuilding.
All of the OEM doo springs (1987-2023) will run out of travel long before then. That is when balancer system damage begins to occur. Continued operation with a loose balancer chain can become catastrophic.

 

[pdwestman]

only because my last 2 KLRs had 67,000 and 55,000 k miles on them before I sold, and the doo was never replaced nor did it fail....

If you didn't remove the outer cover of either of those higher mileage, older model KLR's just before you sold them, you don't Know whether or not the springs were coil bound or tip broken off or if a Gen 1 the welded doo-hickey was actually broken or not.

The only thing that you do Know is that neither of them had tied themselves in a knot yet.

I had about 56,000miles on my 1987 oem doo & spring when I finally decided that I had pushed my luck Far Enough.
When I went in there, the doo would no longer re-adjust. The slot of the original design 'stamped sheet metal' doo was bound on the bolt. Had it been a slightly newer Gen 1 it could have had a broken, welded style doo or a broken stiffer spring.

 

[pdwestman]

I'll just leave this here. 😁

One should ask that mechanic what is the highest mileage KLR he has had the alternator cover removed from?
And if it had over 50,000 miles on its meter, did it have an EM Doo-Hickey installed or not?

I hate the fact that even that mechanic makes the ERROR of referring to "cam chain", rather than balancer chain in the beginning (1:05) of that video.
If the cam chain is excessively worn from "extreme high mileage" the balancer chain is also going to be excessively worn, even with an EM Doo-Hickey installed & properly maintained!

What does that mechanic consider high mileage on a KLR?

 

[pdwestman]

Will comment on a previous post, no we dont have full access to wholesale parts, lots of American parts get shipped here on order. our dealerships just have never needed them. Must be a different batch of bikes that get sent to Australia? I know Japan send different models to different markets.
From all the mechanics I have spoken to, over 50 from dealerships, and all the Aussie riders I have toured with and they had KLR motorcycles, never not one issue with the engine and not one installed the doo or T-Bob.

IMO, this is possibly the worst non-USA balancer chain video on YouTube, because he blames the wrong parts initially.

I'll try to find his #2 video where he corrects himself.

IMO, this is one of the best non-USA balancer chain videos on YouTube,

They all came from here,

Loading…

www.youtube.com

 

[pdwestman]

IMO, this is one of the best non-USA balancer chain videos on YouTube,

I don't understand the yellow-shirted mechanic's (Jurgen's?) explanation for why the torsion spring is better than the coil spring.

I have edited to stress non-USA videos & I agree that Jurgans explanation may actually confuse peoples understanding of the system.

I do feel that Tom Schmitz, aka Souperdoo has the most thorough Doo-Hickey videos going to fully explain the function and differences,
Post Page

 

[pdwestman]

Yes! The "still has tension" is exactly my point. Right around the 9:30 mark Jurgen states that as soon as you clamp the doo in place with the adjuster bolt, there's absolutely no load left on the torsion spring, but the reality is that the spring is not at its free length and it doesn't stop pushing on the doo just because it has been clamped in place. It's maybe a trivial part of the video and the idea of the actual doo issue in general, but it didn't make sense to me when he said it.

Stuff like this makes me regret linking Shawn Murray's & Jurgens videos.
I wish that Shawn Murray would DELETE his #1 video completely. Luckily it hasn't caused controversy on this thread, yet!

I only linked both of those Non-USA videos to show "Whitehuntsman" that it is NOT just a USA thing!

 

[pdwestman]

A 50/50 mix of Anti-freeze & distilled water (-35F freezing point) has a boiling point of about 265F with a 15psi radiator cap. (OEM standard)
So a set point of 250F is fairly 'conservative', IMO.

You will probably Never SEE IT, unless there is Truly an 'Urgent Problem' on a Gen3 or Gen2, because of their substantially larger radiator and better fan than the Gen1 bikes.