No offense but that is a load of BS..... If you know how a thermobob works, you know that it is effective in any ambient temperatures and it does nothing to increase overall cooling effect. There is nothing "to fail"; the absence of a Thermobob is simply that - the bike will run and run fine....perhaps for a long time but the Thermobob is simply an improvement that greatly decreases the delta T between incoming and outgoing coolant in the cylinder (cold shocking).Don't know any Aussies or mechanics down here that install them. Our temps are as extreme as the northern hemisphere, possibly more hotter. From what I have been told and word of the dealerships down here, is that they don't fail down under. Must be how we ride the KLR, look after them and conditions we ride in. There was a old mechanic who worked for Kawasaki in Japan for years now lives in Melbourne who said it was Eagle Mike himself who started the rumour and built up the hype around swapping it out and the doohickey as well. Just making more business for himself. Just my two cents.
For the doohickey; probably. For the T bob; NO......if the cylinder is going to distort from cold shocking it's worse when the engine is brand new. The sooner the better. If I was going to wait a year or two, I probably wouldn't bother.Nobody would wait until the 12 month warranty is up?
Well worded and I agree with the bulk of your post. People SHOULD ride first and modify later and people should also try other bikes. Nobody should modify their bike because people on the internet say they have to........ and there isn't a single modification that is NECESSARY in every case except perhaps the Gen1 Doohickey. That said there is nothing wrong with modifying any bike to be better for you depending on your wants, needs, usage, expectations and budget.......and in my case I like modifying my bikes; keeps me out of the bar, I enjoy it and can afford it. You are also correct in that some people shouldn't touch a wrench......I mean if someone can't install a Thermobob without screwing up.....maybe take up bird watching....or golf.Bingo, the KLR is simple to work on and a very reliable engine. However when people start tinkering with it get it massively wrong and break something then expect warranty to fix it. Huffing and puffing saying it was like that. If you are cracking the engine case to dona doohickey then there is risk. If you are working with cooling and get it wrong then major issues.
Everyone has different opinions about what needs to be done to thier KLR. everyone is different and rides differently and treats there KLR differently. Just voicing my thoughts and experiences from all the Aussie mechanics and dealings I have had with them. Will say that it is definitely a North America dilemma surrounding the KLR.
One member on here, from America, did say this and I agree. Stop spending money on modding the KLR, just ride it. Get to know the bike.
Half the issues with bike owners, especially new ones is, they buy the wrong motorcycle. All motorcycles have thier bugs and issues. Just need to accept some and if you can live with them. But won't know that from on paper, get out and ride the bike. Ride it properly and how you expect to ride it. If it doesn't feel right or can do what you want it too, don't expect to modify it and make it everything you want. Try other bikes first.
Oh thanks for posting THAT again! (Insert sarcastic smiley here).I'll just leave this here. 😁
What is a thermobob? I have a 2018 klr 650 & ride it daily in 30 degree weather. Mountains of northern Arizona. Thanks
Excellent post Pete.CarlosDJackal and others who don't want to install doos or T-Bobs:
Guys like EM and PDW have collected lots of data through their own experience. They have worked on thousands of KLRs. On Gen1's the lever cracks and breaks far more often than not, and those that have not broken have relatively low miles on them. The spring also breaks. On Gen2's, the lever is a little stronger, so doesn't break as often, but still breaks with more use and mileage. However, the tensioner spring fails almost every time with enough miles.
My own experience reinforces their observations. I've replaced doos on 4 bikes. One of those was a 2013, and the spring was broken and the lever quadrant was cracked, that was around 25Kmi. The others were Gen1's with 17, 20, and 37Kmi. Surprisingly, the one with 20Kmi still had an intact lever, although the spring was broken. The others and broken levers and springs.
If you are a doubter and choose not to replace the Doo by about 15Kmi, then do yourself a big favor, and DO NOT adjust the doo after that mileage, because if you loosen the locking screw to allow it to adjust, and the spring is broken, the balancer chain will LOOSEN instead of tighten. Then the loose chain will cause problems you didn't have.
T-Bob: Plenty has already been said, but if you don't want to install one, then don't. Not having one will not cause the engine to catastrophically fail. But if you want your engine to last a long time, use less oil, and be more efficient, then install a T-Bob. I installed a T-bob after installing the EM 692 kit, since I wanted it to stay round, last a long time, and not use oil.
You've been warned.
Well, I'd suggest post #49!What to listen too?
I don't think I'm entrenched at all; the last thing I say in my standard doo post is: A KLR, especially a Gen2 can live for quite awhile without even acknowledging the counterbalance adjuster.....but it's still a weak link that is worth replacing if you want some piece of mind.I think the problem is that the camps are intrenched. One camp says YES otherwise engine failure. The other camp says NO because there is little evidence to suggest all engines will fail without. Can't we just occupy the middle ground and say: Do the Doo + Bob if you want. If you don't want, it's ok. Just enjoy the bike as is. Let's not be so rigid about our positions.
Personally, I do believe the Bob is worthwhile for more even temps in cold weather. But I'm not going to push anyone to install it. It's up to each owner.
Let me try;I don't understand the yellow-shirted mechanic's (Jurgen's?) explanation for why the torsion spring is better than the coil spring. He seems to say that once the doo's adjustment bolt is tightened, there's no longer any pressure on the torsion spring. I just don't see how that can be true. Locking the doo in place with the adjustment bolt does stop either type of spring from being able to move the doo any further, but it doesn't stop them from exerting a force on the doo, even if it is not enough to overcome the bolt pressure on the doo. The only time that isn't the case is when the spring is broken or it is so fatigued that it can no longer apply any force to the doo. And I thought the latter was the real advantage to the torsion spring - it doesn't fatigue in the same manner as the coil spring and will continue to allow for adjustment longer than a coil spring is able to.
...good how-to video otherwise.