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Don't know any Aussies or mechanics down here that install them. Our temps are as extreme as the northern hemisphere, possibly more hotter. From what I have been told and word of the dealerships down here, is that they don't fail down under. Must be how we ride the KLR, look after them and conditions we ride in. There was a old mechanic who worked for Kawasaki in Japan for years now lives in Melbourne who said it was Eagle Mike himself who started the rumour and built up the hype around swapping it out and the doohickey as well. Just making more business for himself. Just my two cents.
The doohickey has failed in both of my bikes and I'm meticulous about maintaining them. There's a reason why I'm parting out my 2012.

Here's a couple pics from the 2002 that failed before 13k miles.
Gas Motor vehicle Nut Nickel Rim

Tints and shades Art Paint Snow Wood

Those Kawasaki engineers are in DENIAL...
 

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Our temps are as extreme as the northern hemisphere, possibly more hotter.
I ride in these temps every summer, temp is in the shade.
Alarm clock Watch Clock Font Auto part

And in the winter it's often 40-50degF for a high.
 
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You don't need the T-Bob or the Doo on the '22. That rhymes. Pretty cool.

But if you want to install them for peace of mind, do it. It's no different that putting good handguards or crash bars on your bike.

From a former KLR outsider looking in, and from many other non-KLR owners, we all wonder why the T-Bob and the Doo create such passionate discussion among KLR owners. I've met a few owners and the first thing they ask me: "Have you installed the T-Bob and the Doo?" And when I say No, they ask why not? Like I was stupid for waiting. :rolleyes: After a while, it gets tiring having to seemingly justify my choices. There's an insinuation that if I don't install these parts, my bike will die.

Let me just say that if my '22 KLR's engine fails because I did not install the Bob and Doo, then screw Kawasaki for making a shit engine! I will sell it for parts and move on to another brand. Great excuse to get a Honda Transalp 750. :ROFLMAO:
The Tbob is helpful but isn't as absolutely necessary as the Doo, just ask me how I know...
Gas Motor vehicle Nut Nickel Rim

Tints and shades Art Paint Snow Wood

Every machine has some type of design flaw, just be happy that there are good folks who have identified the KLR flaws and produced quality remedies already.

I will sell it for parts
That's precisely what I had to do with my 2012 after the doo failed and took out the left side of the engine along with the head/valvetrain.

I believe that so many folks adamantly recommend those mods because they are trying to save a fellow owner the heartache and financial heartburn to follow. Best wishes either way
 

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So value does matter,
One of the best 'value added' statements when selling a KLR is when you can honestly say "YES" to the prospective buying that's asking you "has the Doo been done"? I promise it'll help your chances of getting a fair value for the bike.
 

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I am still salty about the person who rear ended me in my 2002 Subaru WRX
Ah man, that's a bummer, what a sweet car. Always wanted to own one.
 

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Often times the oem Doo won't cause a problem even if the spring is shot, this is, until one tries to perform a balancer chain adjustment; at which point it breaks.

It's amazing how many folks never touch that adjustment bolt and/or don't even know it's required to perform adjustments.

Other times the pieces fall into the sump without contacting any of the rotating parts/gears in the left side case.

I firmly believe there should have been a recall from Kawasaki a long time ago regarding that particular part. Just look at the 'pile' of broken doo levers that EM has; that should tell you something. Best wishes Ride hard
 

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I have to agree with you sir,, I have owned 3 KLRs, (just bought a 22" and have already put 13k on it) I rode the hell out of the last 2 in cold and extremely hot weather and never had an issue with temp fluctuation that caused any premature engine wear or issues. I don't think the Thermo Bob is a necessary addition or trust me I would buy one"
As far as the doohickey.... yes they can fail and with certain years it's more common, but I can't say for sure that it's something that has to be upgraded ? only because my last 2 KLRs had 67,000 and 55,000 k miles on them before I sold, and the doo was never replaced nor did it fail....
Were you performing regular adjustments to the Doo? Or never touched it?
 

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Comes down to how you ride the bike and service it
It's been well known that performing the 'factory' recommended doohickey adjustment is typically when the failure shows itself. It's also known that 'a lot' of owners/dealers 'never' perform the adjustment which means your not likely to know there is a problem for many many miles.

How does one explain the literal 'pile' of broken levers and springs in that video starring Eagle Mike. Some of the bikes those came from were well under 10k miles. I have the first hand experience in both Gen1 & Gen2 bikes and the damage it can cause. It's literally "one day your fine, the next day your not".

Similarly, in the video PDWESTMAN posted earlier the man states he has seen a pile of broken doohickeys over the years.

If you don't want to perform the upgrade that's your decision but, I'd recommend you don't perform the adjustment then.

Based on your prior post about 'rebuilding' a gen1 bench engine you've atleast seen how 'sloppy' the fit is on the factory lever. Additionally, can you say how much spring tension was left when you removed it last? Most springs are coil bound regardless of whether or not everything is still intact. Just food for thought. Best wishes
 

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but not to the insane torque that kawasaki recommend
To each their own but, that has nothing to do with the failures we're discussing.
Can say though that I do believe that we don't push the KLR as hard as they are pushed in America, the conditions are completely different so they are not comparable.
Again, this has no bearing on how sloppy the tolerance is on the lever/shaft nor anything to do with the coil bound springs. Keep in mind when the 'locking bolt' is tightened all of the parts in question are not moving. It's not until the bolt is loosened that the parts begin to move and reduce slack. That's typically when the failure shows itself unbeknownst to the owner/mechanic.
 
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many of us here have first hand proof of it.
This is the main point. Those of us advocating 'for' it have the 'experience' of it happening. Those arguments against it typically DO NOT have the 'first hand' experience. Therefore they are spreading misleading information about whether it's important or not. If I was a new owner I'd be listening to the ones with experience in the matter.

Would you take marital advice from someone who's never been married?? Only if it fits into one's 'confirmation bias' I suppose.....

Best wishes
 
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