IMO, this is possibly the worst non-USA balancer chain video on YouTube, because he blames the wrong parts initially.
Because the engine was cheap to buy, I wanted a work bench engine to work on and as I was getting a KLR it made a lot of sense. Now if something breaks on mine can double check the procedure on the practice engine before going to the bike. Roundness was spot on. He replaced the rings a couple times.
It's been well known that performing the 'factory' recommended doohickey adjustment is typically when the failure shows itself. It's also known that 'a lot' of owners/dealers 'never' perform the adjustment which means your not likely to know there is a problem for many many miles.
Can respect your thoughts and experiences. Just going off mine and the mechanics I have spoken too. Again everyone rides there bike differently. I will say though when it comes to the doo, I will adjust it, but not to the insane torque that kawasaki recommend. Can say though that I do believe that we don't push the KLR as hard as they are pushed in America, the conditions are completely different so they are not comparable.
I don't understand the yellow-shirted mechanic's (Jurgen's?) explanation for why the torsion spring is better than the coil spring. He seems to say that once the doo's adjustment bolt is tightened, there's no longer any pressure on the torsion spring. I just don't see how that can be true. Locking the doo in place with the adjustment bolt does stop either type of spring from being able to move the doo any further, but it doesn't stop them from exerting a force on the doo, even if it is not enough to overcome the bolt pressure on the doo. The only time that isn't the case is when the spring is broken or it is so fatigued that it can no longer apply any force to the doo. And I thought the latter was the real advantage to the torsion spring - it doesn't fatigue in the same manner as the coil spring and will continue to allow for adjustment longer than a coil spring is able to.
To each their own but, that has nothing to do with the failures we're discussing.
Again, this has no bearing on how sloppy the tolerance is on the lever/shaft nor anything to do with the coil bound springs. Keep in mind when the 'locking bolt' is tightened all of the parts in question are not moving. It's not until the bolt is loosened that the parts begin to move and reduce slack. That's typically when the failure shows itself unbeknownst to the owner/mechanic.
Well, I'd suggest post #49!
Absolutely! 💯
I don't think I'm entrenched at all; the last thing I say in my standard doo post is: A KLR, especially a Gen2 can live for quite awhile without even acknowledging the counterbalance adjuster.....but it's still a weak link that is worth replacing if you want some piece of mind.
This is the main point. Those of us advocating 'for' it have the 'experience' of it happening. Those arguments against it typically DO NOT have the 'first hand' experience. Therefore they are spreading misleading information about whether it's important or not. If I was a new owner I'd be listening to the ones with experience in the matter.
I have edited to stress non-USA videos & I agree that Jurgans explanation may actually confuse peoples understanding of the system.
Let me try;
Yes! The "still has tension" is exactly my point. Right around the 9:30 mark Jurgen states that as soon as you clamp the doo in place with the adjuster bolt, there's absolutely no load left on the torsion spring, but the reality is that the spring is not at its free length and it doesn't stop pushing on the doo just because it has been clamped in place. It's maybe a trivial part of the video and the idea of the actual doo issue in general, but it didn't make sense to me when he said it.
Stuff like this makes me regret linking Shawn Murray's & Jurgens videos.
