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Discussion Starter #1
Hey Everyone,
I just picked up a 1993 KLR today with only 4500mi on it, but it's sat for a long time. I know I gotta go through and replace the cables (rusted and super stiff) and change ALL of the fluids (Did that as soon as I got the bike home).

However
The wiring was a bit of a mess on the bike. Half the wires were either worn through, spliced poorly, or not connected to anything.
I attempted the re-wire the bike to what I thought would be right, but I presume it's not.

I have operating low/high beams and a working cluster, but that's it. It will not turn over or even click a solenoid to attempt to start and there are no blinkers or tail lights.

Is there something I should look for specifically or should I try and pick up another wiring harness from a wrecked KLR?
 

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Might just want to replace the entire Wiring Harness and use what's left of the original for spare parts/connectors etc.

I found the following Part Numbers and Prices from an on-line dealer. If you Google the Part Numbers and/or eBay they might even be found for less.

26030-1008 HARNESS,MAIN $155.64
26001-1822 HARNESS,RR $25.69
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Might just want to replace the entire Wiring Harness and use what's left of the original for spare parts/connectors etc.

I found the following Part Numbers and Prices from an on-line dealer. If you Google the Part Numbers and/or eBay they might even be found for less.

26030-1008 HARNESS,MAIN $155.64
26001-1822 HARNESS,RR $25.69
I PM'ed you with my email, but I might have to go that route. I was hoping to have the bike running by this Sunday.
 

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Once was an inmate (don't recall the username entirely, ended with "K," if memory serves) on this website who posted (on DROPBOX) all you ever wanted to know but were afraid to ask about KLR wiring harnesses.

Links to this wiring data archive may still be up on the existing posts.

Maybe some knowledgeable inmate can steer you to this repository of information.

----------------------

EDIT: Just remembered; the inmate in question was, "NormK."
 

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Discussion Starter #5
New Harness

Hey Guys,

Thanks for the replies. I ended up just buying a harness off a 1999. Same part number and in a hell of a lot better shape than my harness.
I'll post pictures of the harnesses next to each other once I get the harness on Thursday. Perhaps once I have the old harness out, I'll fix it and hold onto it. I already re-pinned the taillight harness, so that's good to go.

I'm hoping to have this bike up and running by Friday, or at the latest Friday night. It's supposed to be a beautiful weekend here in Northeastern PA.

Let's clock up some miles on my 4500mi "Hoopty!"
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So I replaced the wiring harness and I have power, but I have nothing.
As far as I know everything is plugged in correctly, but I don't even have lights now. Whenever I try to operate something on the handle bars, the temperature gauge goes crazy, but that's all that happens.
I think this bike seriously hates me already.

The only thing I noticed, which I had on the last bike was a black and yellow wire that has an eyelet for a ground it looks like and then I have one on the positive battery side with a pin connection. Where would these go? Those are the only two wires I'm really scratching my head on, besides what ever the hell is going on with it having no lights, no start, but it has power everywhere.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Everything is where it's supposed to be. Now something has to be drawing power, but what, I have no idea. Unfortunately my multimeter leads decided to take a shit, so I'm at a loss for what's shorting.

I'm half tempted to just merge the old harness and this one since the old one at least had the headlight working. This new harness only lets the neutral light work and sends the temperature gauge into a frenzy if any of the handlebar controls are used. Now I did notice if I ground the ground to battery (black/yellow by the rectifier with the ball end) wire to the frame and the common ground (black/yellow eyelet by the CDI box) on the frame I will get the blinkers to work, but the relay sounds pretty pissed off when they do work.

I know that's not very much help, but electrical is my weakest link for my mechanical knowledge.
 

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Black and yellow is the main ground buss. If you have a B/Y wire with an eyelet it should probably go to a frame ground.

What color is the wire coming off the positive battery connection? There should only be a heavy cable going to the starter relay and a white wire. The white wire runs everything electrical except the starter motor. It should be connected to the main fuse.

If you don't have a wiring diagram, look here: http://www.klrforum.com/1987-2007-wrenching-mods/18001-handy-spec-sheet-gen-1-a.html
 

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See if the attached helps at all:

As Tom point out the Black wire with the Yellow Tracer (Bk/Y) is Chassis Ground. I suspect that the "eyelet" that you refer to should be attached where the Bracket that holds all of the Relays, the CDI Unit, the Horn and Coolant Overflow Bottle (among other things) is bolted to the Frame. If you remove the uppermost bolt (it's not a big one), there is (or should be) a Bk/Y wire (Ground), with an eyelet that is sandwiched between this bracket and the frame of the motorcycle.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Black and yellow is the main ground buss. If you have a B/Y wire with an eyelet it should probably go to a frame ground.

What color is the wire coming off the positive battery connection? There should only be a heavy cable going to the starter relay and a white wire. The white wire runs everything electrical except the starter motor. It should be connected to the main fuse.
If memory serves me right the wire coming off the positive battery is white, but I will have to look once I get home

See if the attached helps at all:

As Tom point out the Black wire with the Yellow Tracer (Bk/Y) is Chassis Ground. I suspect that the "eyelet" that you refer to should be attached where the Bracket that holds all of the Relays, the CDI Unit, the Horn and Coolant Overflow Bottle (among other things) is bolted to the Frame. If you remove the uppermost bolt (it's not a big one), there is (or should be) a Bk/Y wire (Ground), with an eyelet that is sandwiched between this bracket and the frame of the motorcycle.
I will attach that one once I'm home, but that doesn't exactly explain why there's a pin connection one near the battery. Should I find a pin connector and connect that one to ground as well?

Also, I'm wondering if one of the connectors for the cluster has dirt or something in it since it seems to only be sending power to the neutral light and temperature gauge.
 

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Why not take a wiring diagram and a multimeter (about $ 3 at Harbor Freight) and chase the wiring from the battery through the circuitry?

I'd start with a WHITE wire from the battery + terminal to the ignition switch; then, a BROWN wire from the ON contact throughout the system . . .

If Mr. Ohm and Mr. Kirchoff told the truth, your bike, properly wired, shouldn't act as it does. Electrons (or "holes") have no conscience; they will follow the paths laid before them.

Good luck with a definitely complex and knotty problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Why not take a wiring diagram and a multimeter (about $ 3 at Harbor Freight) and chase the wiring from the battery through the circuitry?

I'd start with a WHITE wire from the battery + terminal to the ignition switch; then, a BROWN wire from the ON contact throughout the system . . .

If Mr. Ohm and Mr. Kirchoff told the truth, your bike, properly wired, shouldn't act as it does. Electrons (or "holes") have no conscience; they will follow the paths laid before them.

Good luck with a definitely complex and knotty problem.
Thank you, I'll probably end up borrowing one of the Fluke ones from work. I'm genuinely curious as to why both harnesses have issues.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well, I found myself a copy of the Clymer's Manual online that I got now. I printed out the electrical segment so I have it handy for later today.
If anyone (which I presume mostly everyone here has the manual) wants a copy of the Clymer's Manual, message me and I can send it to you
 

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If memory serves me right the wire coming off the positive battery is white, but I will have to look once I get home...
If the white wire is not connected to anything then you have no real power at all. Any voltage that is getting anywhere is somehow coming though the starter relay, probably on the ground side of things, though filaments, through the Y/R wire, etc. Weird shit ensues.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
If the white wire is not connected to anything then you have no real power at all. Any voltage that is getting anywhere is somehow coming though the starter relay, probably on the ground side of things, though filaments, through the Y/R wire, etc. Weird shit ensues.
So I was able to get power to everything last night. I ended up having to merge certain sections of the harness I bought with the original one (the fan connections, starter leads, headlight connector, and a ground wire to be exact).

However I'm wondering if something else is grounding too since when I activate the turn signals the starter operates only momentarily. IF I try to use the start button itself it kills the whole bike.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Ok, so I went out this morning and the bike was stone dead, even with putting a charger on the battery. Is it possible that whatever was draining the battery before made the battery flat?

I mean, the only way I seem to get power to stuff now is if I apply power to the white wire and brown wire where the fuses are (which I have the fuse wires alligator clipped together since I saw my 10A fuse was charred).
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I really need help

I really need help on this because I can't figure out for the life of me why NOTHING works unless I put power to the white cable back by the battery.

I'm already fed up with the bike because I don't really have the time or space to keep messing with electrical. I HATE electrical. :brick: :brick: :brick:

I mean, I haven't even gotten a chance to see if the thing will turn over. I know the lights work if I apply power to the white cable and a ground, but it doesn't make sense as to why a gel battery would be bad if I just bought it last week AND put it on a charger overnight. Nor does it explain why I can't do anything if I apply power to the battery leads themselves.
 

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I'm not sure why and how we are not communicating. I think I am missing something.

Let me ask a single, direct question.

What do you have the white wire that comes off the battery lead connected to?
 
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