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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all, this is my first post as I’ve just purchased my first KLR 650. It has been sitting for 2 years, I emptied the tank and replaced with new fuel, got it started and it idles well smooth and quiet, but won’t rev over 2500, anything’s past a tiny bit of throttle it dies, riding is the same, even getting the bike up to speed and trying to get the revs up (under power) fails and all power is lost. It doesn’t stall if I release the throttle. Personally I would have assumed a carb issue ( full of old funky fuel) but it does run smooth at really low rev and can move up through the gears up to about 70kmh. I’m wondering if it’s something mechanical it feels like a “governed” engine rather than fuel. Just thought I would check if this is a known thing before I rip all the fairing off to rebuild the carb.
 

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...I’m wondering if it’s something mechanical it feels like a “governed” engine rather than fuel...
That's very likely exactly what it is. You need to pull the carb in any case, so go ahead and do it. Remove the slide and look for a modified slide with an extra pair of holes. The extra holes prevent the engine from developing full power. It's part of your Australian LAMS folly/program.

The slide will look like this.


Auto part Gas Nickel Audio equipment Rim


You may find this useful as you remove and work on the carb. After sitting for two years, you really ought to rebuild the carburetor as a matter of course.
 

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2500 rpm may be caused by an air filter box Completely filled with mouse nest! Have you even inspected, cleaned & reoiled that re-usable air filter?
Or the rubber diaphragm may be damaged along with the LAMs holes. I thinks the LAMs bikes will normally rev to about 4000rpm / 100kph.
A 1990's Harley Sportster CV40 carb slide & diaphragm assembly fits & does not have those 2 upper holes, which restrict the LAMs KLRs.
 

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2500 rpm may be caused by an air filter box Completely filled with mouse nest! Have you even inspected, cleaned & reoiled that re-usable air filter?
Or the rubber diaphragm may be damaged along with the LAMs holes. I thinks the LAMs bikes will normally rev to about 4000rpm / 100kph.
A 1990's Harley Sportster CV40 carb slide & diaphragm assembly fits & does not have those 2 upper holes, which restrict the LAMs KLRs.
I will second what Paul said. A properly running Australian LAMS machine will run fine up to around 4000 rpm which is around 100km/h be very cautious abut any overtaking moves on the hwy that require speeds higher than this as it will accelerate very slowly beyond 4000 rpm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
That's very likely exactly what it is. You need to pull the carb in any case, so go ahead and do it. Remove the slide and look for a modified slide with an extra pair of holes. The extra holes prevent the engine from developing full power. It's part of your Australian LAMS folly/program.

The slide will look like this.


View attachment 30830

You may find this useful as you remove and work on the carb. After sitting for two years, you really ought to rebuild the carburetor as a matter of course.
Thanks for the idea, the restriction im experiencing is definitely not purposeful it is nearly un-ridable and on half throttle the engine dies completely, unless you let it back as far a 1/10 trottle. but all the research ive done points to a air leak or vacuum. or the main is completely blocked and only running on the idle jet. I will be pulling it apart today thanks for the videos.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
2500 rpm may be caused by an air filter box Completely filled with mouse nest! Have you even inspected, cleaned & reoiled that re-usable air filter?
Or the rubber diaphragm may be damaged along with the LAMs holes. I thinks the LAMs bikes will normally rev to about 4000rpm / 100kph.
A 1990's Harley Sportster CV40 carb slide & diaphragm assembly fits & does not have those 2 upper holes, which restrict the LAMs KLRs.
I did fuels, oil, air cleaner and and battery. its all clean and fresh no crud in the box. I will check for Lams holes today, when i clean the main jet.
Thanks for your info :cool:
 

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I missed the part about the engine completely dying. That could be an extremely rich condition, like the main jet falling into the bowl.

This will be interesting...
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So Ive just finished cleaning the carb properly, the top was really clean and the Slide has had the 2 holes (for LAMS) Braised or metal Expoy filled. its super clean and the diaphragm is good. the bowl was clean but the main jet when unscrewed did have lots of shit in it, cleaned it out well with carby cleaner. put it all back together. (Note i still have the original petcock with vacuum line) The bike was harder to start than before, (I checked the bowl had fuel before trying) and the i still have the same problem its maybe a little better getting to 3k but it was doing that on the big drive home anyway.

I've not see the vacuum line to the petcok system before, i assume this is like a tap (opens when vacuum is present) and stops it draining when parked up. is it possible the vacuum line could be causing the bike not to rev above 3000k i sprayed Starting fluid around the carb to see if it was a vacuum leak but didnt try up near the tap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
its a new day and I couldn't really run it much at 1am after I did the clean last night. so this morning i tested and the issue still remains, also now very hard to start with enricher or without. also still dies completely with anything over 1/4 throtttle. I can confirm it is a fuel issue tho - i took the air box door and stock cleaner off and once warmed up took the throttle to 3/4 it started to die and i sprayed starting fluid into the carb and she reved easily up to 6K. so fuel is my issue (I'm surprised it cuts out tho i would have thought it would just stop increasing revs but keep running) i guess its so lean it cant stay running. The diaphragm look good but i gues it could be failing so i will get a rebuild kit and see if that helps. any other suggestions would be great. its a 2011 model (stock)
 

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Have you READ the link in that link?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Have you READ the link in that link?
Yes 3 times now, Not sure if there is something specific you are referring too that i am missing but the 3rd time did not enlighten me any more than the 1st :) In saying that I've dismantled and cleaned and cleaned and then cleaned some more including needles through the tiny holes in the emulsifier tube, also cleaned the jet with a drill. put it all back together and ive got full throttle :) revs smoothly and without hesitation up to 6+k
Just went for my first bush ride and what an amazing bike! i've spent years riding a XR Baja 250 in Cambodia on hard core tracks (just to get the the shops) and i was worried the KLR may be too big and heavy for me, but it feels nearly the same, i can throw it around no problem, Suspension is not as good obviously but im not looking to get air (well not that much anyway ;-))

Now time for tyres...safe enough for the highway (for 2-300kms trips) but aggessive enough for mud sand and rocks, i'll start looking at discussion for ideas i'm sure this is a well discussed topic.

Thanks all for your help, (one last quick question - what temp is it comfortable running at? at times in slow bushy section just now the needle got up to half (noticed the fan wasn't on but i think the Fan fuse is missing)

Thanks again Ben
 

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I recon that we will never know what had been over-looked. But glad to read that it is running up the rpm scale correctly, now.

We never asked, what year of bike is it? So that matters how to test the fan.
Either Gen of fan should operate by 5/8 - 3/4 of temp scale. My personal 1987 fan comes on at about 9/16 scale.

The stock KLR cooling system with its 160F / 70C thermostat runs (cooler than ideal at) about 1/4 scale of gauge in cool to moderate air temps.
The radiator & fan should keep the gauge below 7/8 gauge scale in summer heat, slow trails, churning thru sandy sections. They are NOT Too hot unless the needle is touching the Red Zone!

The fan switch is at the cool end / bottom of the radiator. Is it a single wire (GEN1 bike 87-07) or a 2 wire (GEN2 bike 08-18) switch?
Single wire? Simply disconnect & touch it to a paint bare cylinder head fin. (Key on OR OFF should run.)
Two wire? Simply disconnect and bridge the 2 wires with a wire or paper clip. (Runs only with Key ON.)

The bottom of the radiator has to get above 200-212F / 94-100C before the switch will activate.
The cylinder head mounted temp gauge sensor will of course be higher than that.
 
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