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Discussion Starter #1
Okay, DipStickPreviousOwner(s) AGAIN have left me a Treasure Map with no Treasure...

On the Rear Caliper I found a 'custom' piece (and if I'm not mistaken, other 'n Caliper Paint there is NOTHING we can do to Customize, right?!?!).
Instead-a springing for a new Rear Set of Pads, they wedged in this "THING"???





It is not a Part, it is a Fab'd piece that was epoxied in there to get more use out of the Pads,





BUT!!!

I'm wondering if I should be concerned. No OEM pieces are missing. But I'm wondering if there was 'more' to this Mod than lets on.
The Caliper suffered a hit.




What do you think?
Can I just put new pads in and delete the 'silver wedge'?
Or do I maybe have 'an issue' I should be looking for?
The Rear Brake functioned correctly before I tore the Bike down...
 

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Tell me how you get more use out of a brake pad beyond wearing off the friction material.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
NO CLUE MAAAN!!! Other 'n hitting the Metal Pad-back with the Rotor (only a slight score on the Rotor) like this clown did!!!

I'm thinking to grind down the Metal Pad-Back as it will not 'clear the Caliper' as it is pressured to clamp down.
These are the correct Pad (mine). I'm wondering if DPO had 'wrong' pads and made 'em work by 'pressing in further' the pad from the Caliper Bracket.
UPDATE: Pads removed and new ones are the same, so there is a very small clearance issue.



I was thinking to grind the Pad-back (1/16" at moooost) so it will seat up against the '2-Finger Caliper Bracket Back'.

I hope that, and photos, get my message clear...
Thx.
 

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I think new pads should get it back to normal.

The piston may need cleaning with some 600 grit wet/dry sand paper used like a shoe shine buffing cloth. Rotate the piston with some needle nose pliers to clean all around. Use rubber tubing placed over the tips to avoid scratching the piston.

Just clean enough so that you can push the piston in with a good push with your thumbs.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Roger that GoMotor; gracias.
It's moving pretty freely (no tools needed).

Reminds me of when I was a kid and wedging a screwdriver 'twixt my Truck Rotor/Caliper to get it to move so I could get the 2nd CaliperBolt in.
'Guess I didn't realize my own strength (ahem!) as I bent the (cheapo) Rotor and
the first run in that Truck the FrontEnd shimmied SO BAD!!!
WHHHHaaaaa...

'Bent the Rotor... DOH!
I-Moron
 

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That is strange. The caliper should be able to extend far enough that it will push the backing plate into the rotor once the friction material is gone. I realize it is probably all back together and you're riding it to the Dairy Queen, but could your caliper have extended that pad into contact with the rotor without the shim?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Suspicious minds...

That is strange. The caliper should be able to extend far enough that it will push the backing plate into the rotor once the friction material is gone. I realize it is probably all back together and you're riding it to the Dairy Queen, but could your caliper have extended that pad into contact with the rotor without the shim?
Thhhhhhaaaat's the kinda thing I'm concerned about.

OfferUp Replacement-Rims to $hit-On-A-Schtick Black Rims I painted are getting skinned today, pick 'em up tonite; schlap on Bike tomorrow. 'Won't be ready for DQ Run, but I can start to test that Caliper and those Rotors I was asking about in another Post (F - 3/8" wider, R - 1/4" Wider than OEM).
Caliper 'functions', and will even clamp to closed (with new pads in), so it is pulling correctly; Piston is not binding anywhere.

I'm tellin' you guys, this was a cheat to avoid getting new pads? The Bike has like 18K mi and went trooo RearPads??? DPO riding Rear Brake perhaps? Or didn't know how to properly Brake? This Bike hasn't seen THAT much Dirt to be sure, so I'm at a bit of a loss as to why RearBrakes are so goofily set up this way. Since I'm not an Engineer like some-a youse guys seem to be I'm puttin' it out to ya'll!!!
YOU DEFINITELY KNOW YOUR KLR SCHTUFF!!!
 

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The only way it was a cheat to avoid new pads is if the piston, for some reason, won't extend all of the way out as it is intended. That was the question I clumsily asked above.

Normally, the piston will extend far enough to allow the backing plate to kit the rotor, once all of the friction material is worn off.

Could also have been a very poorly executed anti-squeal shim.

Something drove this differently-abled person to do that. I'd be inclined to find out what it was.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
T.S. Don’t know yet; that’s why the KLR-sourcing here. I will say, it’s like fixing Christmas tree lights… It is not a “fix” when the lights come back on by just jiggling them.

After fiddling a little bit more with the pads and calipers I find that the pads just don’t clear the caliper (same for old set and new set). I think it’s an easy grind because it won’t involve any of the frictional.
Piston/Caliper operate as intended.

Measure 3X, cut once…
Updates coming soon.

Thx!
 
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